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| | |-+  fastening rails to tressle track .
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Author Topic: fastening rails to tressle track .  (Read 5307 times)
Jhanecker2

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« on: December 09, 2014, 11:54:09 PM »

How does one properly fasten Code 100 rails to tressle  track ties ? Ties  are plastic . John2.
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MBB


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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2014, 12:29:22 AM »

One way -- use a very small amount of cyanoacrylate glue to attach the trestle to the bottom of the ties. 
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rogertra


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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2014, 03:10:56 AM »

Normally one attaches the the rails to the trestle bridge timbers, not the plastic ties that come with the track, otherwise it will look odd.

Cheers

Roger T.

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jbrock27

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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2014, 07:40:37 AM »

JH2, I have used hot glue or an adhesive called E-6000 that you can buy at a craft store like Micheal's or Jo-Ann Fabrics, when I have glued sectional track to a trestle (plastic on plastic).  I put either adhesive on the trestle first then put the track in place.  Those 2 stores offer 50% and 40% off coupons regularly, on regular priced items, which the glue is.  I like the E-6000 for a lot of things.  And while not pretty, I know it is possible to remove the track with minimal damage to the trestle when I used the hot glue.
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electrical whiz kid

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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2014, 09:18:48 PM »

J. Brock:  There is a product known as "Barge Cement".  Jack Parker, of Central Valley HO recommends it when using this practice.  Also, might I recommend using his bridge tie assemblies?
My guess is that it behaves much like Weldwood Cement; a contact type cement.  I have used the latter on my track work, both plastic and wood, fibre, etc; with good results.
Rich C.
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Doneldon

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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2014, 10:12:46 PM »

Barge Cement is, indeed, a contact adhesive, It grabs very tightly so be certain that the track is located exactly correctly. Try dry-fitting the pieces and mark the bridge deck with the precise spot for the track.
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jbrock27

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« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2014, 09:00:33 AM »

Thank you for the info Staff Sgt.
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electrical whiz kid

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« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2014, 09:10:53 AM »

JBrock;
No problem.  I have attempted a lot of approaches to track-work, and some I swear by, and others I swear at-just like most of us here.  What I like about any product like Weldwood is that it attacks the plastic tie composition so that the surface is accessible to make good adhesion to the nickel-silver rail.  I am using 1/4inch subflooring as sub road-bed for this next layout, laminating three pieces while staggering the ends.  It is something I saw, and called it good.  the part that is really good is having a good solid uniform surface that I like better than homasote.  Oh, and I give the top lamination a coat of shellac.  This seems to work like gang-busters so far.
The noise of the motor will probably be an issue, but not one which I would find problematic.  Many years standing in front of guitar amps has taken care of that!
RIch C.
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Jhanecker2

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« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2014, 09:15:47 PM »

Thanks to all who responded . I am trying to attach rails to the tressle track ties .  I purchased a Walthers tressle track & bridge kit # 933-6147 and will eventually have to   fasten  N/S rails to them . They appear to have a deliniated area to align them but wonder how fasten them in gauge .  Anybody know what books describe the process ?  John2.
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rogertra


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« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2014, 09:25:41 PM »

Thanks to all who responded . I am trying to attach rails to the tressle track ties .  I purchased a Walthers tressle track & bridge kit # 933-6147 and will eventually have to   fasten  N/S rails to them . They appear to have a deliniated area to align them but wonder how fasten them in gauge .  Anybody know what books describe the process ?  John2.

Walthers catalogue contains no trestle or bridge 933-6147.

In fact, using the Walthers on line catalogue I couldn't even find a part number 933-6147.  Sad

Cheers

Roger T.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2014, 10:47:35 PM by rogertra » Logged

WoundedBear
A Derailed Drag Racer


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« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2014, 11:18:27 PM »

I know what you're talking about. I have a similar Walthers item on my layout. The rail chairs are molded into the ties and you set the rail in the slight groove they form.

I used a small amount of slow setting CA to affix the rails to the plastic deck/ties. After painting and weathering, any excess disappeared.


Sid
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rogertra


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« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2014, 11:23:07 PM »

I know what you're talking about. I have a similar Walthers item on my layout. The rail chairs are molded into the ties and you set the rail in the slight groove they form.

I used a small amount of slow setting CA to affix the rails to the plastic deck/ties. After painting and weathering, any excess disappeared.


Sid

What Sid says.  Most model trestles and bridges come this way.

Cheers

Roger T.

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WoundedBear
A Derailed Drag Racer


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« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2014, 11:25:03 PM »

I think he's dealing with a Walthers 933-3147...try that number.

Sid
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rogertra


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« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2014, 11:28:21 PM »

I think he's dealing with a Walthers 933-3147...try that number.

Sid

Nice looking trestle.  Smiley

I'll have to look up its Cooper's rating and see if I can use on my mainline.  If not, on the "Paper Branch" and restrict locos to the 2-10-0s, 4-6-0s and 2-6-0s.  Smiley

Cheers

Roger T.

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WoundedBear
A Derailed Drag Racer


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« Reply #14 on: December 11, 2014, 11:35:34 PM »

It may be nice looking....in the photos.

I prefer to invest a little time and effort and build mine from scratch with wood. I made an easy template for the bents that cuts assembly time by a lot. O gauge pine ties work nicely for HO bridge ties and I can spike right into them.

But then again, I tend to get obsessive.....like this support structure under this deck. Good thing I took a pic, because it will probably never see the light of day again. Grin



Sid
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