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January 22, 2018, 11:59:56 PM
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Author Topic: Turnout problems  (Read 1420 times)
Nightwing

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« on: January 07, 2017, 09:12:28 AM »

I have been fighting problems with my 30 crossing and now I have something worse.  My layout had EZ track manual turnouts and I never had an issue with them.  I upgraded the two furthest turnouts to powered units.  Since then, my 060 locomotive stumbles or jumps the track.  Staying on the straight run is smooth, but switching to the curved turnout is when the problem occurs.  

There doesn't seem to be much tension on the switch points against the rails, certainly not as much as the manual units.  I can run an F7 diesel loco through there all day long without a hiccup, but my little steamer doesn't fare well.  I would like to leave the diesels on the display shelf because my entire layout is turn of the century themed.

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Joe323

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« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2017, 10:04:46 PM »

First of all those you should get yourself an NMRA guage and make sure the locos wheels are in guage. 

If you subscribe to model railroader I would take a look at the Virginian Series video part where David Popp describes how to file the points on a turnout to make them sharp so the wheels of the locomotive won't pick the points.

Third (and I have not done this myself) open to he bottom of the turnout and either replace or stiffen the flimsy wire that supposed to provide tension with something  thicker.

Or as a last resort go to your LHS and find the same size turnout in Atlas Code 100.  Youll have to use cork and shims to re-create the roadbed but tye Atlas turnouts have the little pockets that prevent this point picking.
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Nightwing

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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2017, 11:50:13 PM »

Do you know if the Atlas turnout has the same footprint as the Bachmann?  If so, I would consider removing the Bachmann turnout from its base and gluing the replacement in place.
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Joe323

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« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2017, 09:46:02 AM »

I believe so but there is no way that I can see removing and replacing just the trackthou I suppose its possible to remove the track and file down the base then glue the atlas turnout on top.

That seems like a a lot more work than just replacing the turnout using cork roadbed painted grey.
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Flare

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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2017, 04:45:27 PM »

First of all those you should get yourself an NMRA guage and make sure the locos wheels are in guage.


I have an On30 locomotive with the same problem on an E-Z Track turnout, should I get an On30 NMRA gauge, HO gauge, or both?
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Joe323

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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2017, 06:12:14 PM »

I don't know if there is special reason On30 gauge I believe an HO gauge would do but perhaps someone else knows?
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dutchbuilder


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« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2017, 07:38:00 PM »

The only difference between H0 and 0n30 is the tye spacing.
The rest is exactly the same.

Ton
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JerryB

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« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2017, 08:15:51 PM »

The NMRA 0n30 gauge is composed of two parts: First part is the metal H0 track gauge that has been around for many years.

The second part is a snap-on plastic part that is an 0n30 clearance gauge. It can be used for track clearance, tunnels, loading docks, doors, etc. for 0n30 scale.

I use the 0n30 gauge for my developing 0-scale model RR, and would recommend it if you are doing 0n30.

Happy RRing,

Jerry
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