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Author Topic: CONNE-10145  (Read 4310 times)
Trawarr

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« on: March 14, 2017, 11:32:37 AM »

Hello.  Smiley

I am new to this forum so please pardon me if I am not posting to the correct section. 

I was repairing a 4-6-0 Anniversary Edition.  It doesn't run.  When I move it forward on the controller, it goes about half an inch and stops.  Put it in reverse and it does the same thing. Checked the voltage on the rails and it is getting 5 to 6 volts.  In one of the forums, I read it could be a gear issue.  So I opened it to check the gears and it looks good. While doing so, I inadvertently broke one of the CONNE-10145 off of the Contact G812X-MT010.  I have sent couple of emails to the Parts department but got no reply.  How can I fix this?  Thank you.   
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2017, 01:06:30 PM »

There are many possibilities....  In the future, I strongly suggest that before trying to repair something that may not be broken, make sure first that the power supply is working properly, and with the 4-6-0 be sure the front truck is facing the right direction(arrow facing forward).  That should always be the first step in any diagnosis of the 4-6-0.  Your power supply definitely should produce 18 or more volts at the track. If all you got was 5 or six volts at the track, the most likely problem was/is your power supply(transformer).  Bachmann power controllers  and many other brand power packs have thermal circuit breakers.  A short will heat the breaker and cause it to trip stopping the locomotive. After it cools down the train will run again until it heats up again and trip again. If the short is not eliminated the power supply will eventually fail. Gear issues in the Annie 4-6-0 are rarely a problem(but are on the Connie 2-8-0). 

Try calling the parts dept, also check the online parts store and see if what you need is there.     If your 4-6-0 is under warranty you may be able to send it in for repair.

Check with service to find out your options.  One way or the other you will be able to get your loco going again.

We are always ready to help. 

Loco Bill

   
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Trawarr

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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2017, 07:32:38 AM »

Thank you for your suggestions, Bill.  As I mentioned, I sent couple of emails to the Parts department but got no reply.  Was wondering if there is any other way to attach the wire to the contact.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2017, 10:36:47 AM »

It is usually best to call the parts department.

I am getting old , but looking at the wiring diagram for the loco I cant find the connector you mentioned, and I cant seem to picture where the break is.     

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/LS_4-6-0_Metal_Gears.dc_wiring.pdf

Can you possibly solder it back on??

Post a picture and maybe we can come up with a better idea.   Place the picture in PhotoBucket or something similar and type the link into your reply.

Bill

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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Trawarr

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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2017, 06:16:46 PM »

Here is the link to Photobucket.

http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/Photowarr/library/

Shows the two contacts.  The one to which the black wire is attached is the one where the CONNE-10145 is broken.

Hope this helps.
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RkyGriz


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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2017, 08:00:02 PM »

I've had a lot of experience with those connections. They are weak and break easily. I have talked to the reps at Bachmann about this issue and they said that they don't have those connections available. I've broken a few at the top wire and have always been able to solder the wire  back on. Yours' is broken off at the base ,and I've also repaired that exact issue on one of my locos as well .  I did that by removing the chassis and then soldering a longer wire to the switch on the boiler plate and then pulling it through the chassis frame and soldering the wire directly to the brass contact. It can be a little tricky, but with a little patience, it can be done.
Good luck!
Andrew
« Last Edit: March 15, 2017, 11:56:57 PM by RkyGriz » Logged

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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2017, 10:33:12 PM »

If you have confidence in your soldering skills soldering is the way to go.   I see the black wire is embedded in the hot melt glued and if you can get it out of the glue you may be able to get it lengthened.  I have had some success getting a wire out of the glue using a low heat soldering iron to remelt the glue close to the wire while gently pulling on the wire to get a longer length. You will of course have to thoroughly clean the tip after doing this. Remove the screw and put the eye in a metal mini clamp and resolder the wire to the eye.  Dab some flux on the eye stud and tin the end of the wire as this will greatly improve your chances. Then re-assemble.

An alternative, but not so elegant method, would be to just remove the eye altogether and solder the black wire directly to the brass contact.  Again use flux on the spot you want to use and add a tiny drop of solder to the contact. then tin the wire and solder it on.  Screw the brass connector back in place and you should be ready to go.

Good Luck,

Bill
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Joe Zullo

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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2017, 09:41:33 AM »

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A Trainman

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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2017, 08:43:41 PM »

Trawarr,

All those suggestions are exactly how I would approach the broken connector repair.

But what caught my eye was the drive rod position of the lower left wheel in the photograph.
It appears to be out of position. Could be just moved out of position when you removed the bottom. But, if the drive rods weren't parallel, front to rear, and 90 degrees (quartered) left side to right, they could be binding and not allowing the wheels to rotate.   

Just a thought, hope you get rolling soon!

Adam
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2017, 10:25:13 PM »

Great catch Adam!.  This will definitely need to be taken care of before Trawarr puts the loco back in operation!
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Trawarr

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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2017, 01:07:42 AM »

Thank you Bill, Adam and Andrew for your suggestions.  

Bill, I am going to have my dad do the soldering part.  LOL!!!  He is into electronics and loves to work on these kinds of items.  He is retired and needs something to do.  I am more into the mechanical side of things.  Taking things apart, cleaning them, repairing them and putting them back together.  He is more into the electronics and electrical side of things.  I like it too but he is better at it.  We were going to solder the wire, just the way you suggested, but I wasn't sure whether that was the right approach.  I needed someone to second me.   Smiley

Adam, yes.  It is out of position.  Noticed it when I took the picture.  Happened when I took it out and put it back together.  I am going to fix it before I get it to run.  And run, it will.   Smiley

Once again, thank you all very much for your input and suggestions.

Neil
« Last Edit: March 17, 2017, 01:20:34 AM by Trawarr » Logged
Trawarr

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« Reply #11 on: March 26, 2017, 11:48:28 PM »

Haven't posted any updates in a while.  Got busy with life.  Smiley

I rewired the connection between the motor and the copper piece.  Took out the CONNE-10145.  Tested the connections and am getting a good continuity.  Like Bill mentioned earlier, I have a feeling there is some issue with the power supply unit.  I took an adapter I had, cut of the end and attached it to the rails and I am getting good voltage.  May have to buy a new power supply.

In the pictures I posted, there was one that showed the wheels and the connecting rods which we thought were out of whack.  I checked and that is the only way they fit.  They seem to be misaligned.  I am not sure whether that is the way it should be but that is the only way I can fit them.

I took out the wheels.  Inserted the last set which is connected to the gear.  On giving power to the copper strips, the wheel turned really well.  Then I inserted the center wheels.  Connected the connecting rods.  Both set of wheels turned pretty good.  I thought ... woohoo.  Connected the first set (the front wheels) and .... bummer.  <sad dog face>.   Sad  Angry I have a feeling that if I can figure out why those wheels are not turning, I got the problem solved.  I followed the diagram and connected it the way it said.

Pretty much took the train apart, cleaned the parts, lubricated the parts that need lubrication, etc.  Put it back.  Didn't lose any parts. Put them back in the exact place too.   LOL!!!

Hope my post made sense.

Thank you all for your help.

Neil
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2017, 06:23:51 PM »

About the wheels,  they definitely fit in other ways than the picture shows.  Drivers must be "quartered" to operate properly.

Before you blame the power supply, make absolutely sure the drivers are correct first!!!!

This picture shows the correct driver alignment:

http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/images/Large_Scale/91604.jpg

Start by connecting the front and center drivers so the rods work ok together and are aligned.

If the front and center drivers are OK then you will need to remove the bottom cover and disconnect the drive rods from the rear driver on both sides.  Then you will need to rotate the rear driver until the rod will line up as shown in the picture.  check the other side to be sure that side will line up as well,  onn the other side the screw holes will be one quarter of a turn different than the side in the picture.  Once both sides are aligned then tighten down the rods to the wheels.

If they do not align then it is possible that either the wheels and axles on the front or rear were either reversed or taken apart and reassembled incorrectly.

This must be fixed before operating the locomotive again.   Once all is aligned then try running the locomotive and letting us know the results.

Bill

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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
A Trainman

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« Reply #13 on: March 31, 2017, 10:00:58 PM »

Trawarr,

As Bill says.

Sounds pretty much cut and dry, remove the bottom, remove the large screws that hold the drive rods onto the front and middle driver wheel sets. then position the middle wheel set with the drive rod connection points in the same position as the rear set, both left and right sides. If they match, replace the drive rod screws and do the same with the front wheel set. If they don't, try flipping the middle wheel set so the wheel that was on the right side is now on the left side and see if the drive rods will line up. Continue on to the front wheel set.

One thing I noticed while working on one of my locos was a small "L" on one wheel and "R" on the other of the same axle. But I don't remember if it was on the back side of the wheel or the outside when I had the plastic insert removed and the wheel off the axle. May be something to look for and set wheels accordingly.

You may have to remove a wheel from an axle to properly quarter it. The wheel will sit on the axle only two ways, 0 or 180 degrees out. It's not very hard to do. The middle and front wheel sets just lift out of the loco when the rods are removed. from the rear side of a wheel, push out the plastic insert with a small screwdriver starting at the counter weight and working your way around. You'll see the mounting screw in the center. Remove it and rotate the wheel 180 degrees and replace the screw and insert.  

All drive rods need to be in a straight line and parallel to the ground. And if the drive rod pins on the left wheels are at the 12:00 o'clock position then all three drive rod pins of the wheels on the right should be in either the 3:00 o'clock or 9:00 o'clock position, doesn't matter, just as long as all three are "clocked" the same.

I hope this helps, and keep us informed.

Adam
« Last Edit: March 31, 2017, 10:18:39 PM by A Trainman » Logged
Trawarr

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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2017, 11:38:54 PM »

Thank you Bill and Adam.  Your input is greatly appreciated.  Smiley

The wheels were not set correctly.  Adam, you mentioned about the lettering (L and R) on the wheels.  The front and the back wheels (connected to the gears) had 1 and 2 on them.  Very tiny lettering.  I set the numbers on the same side.  The 1 on the front and back wheel on the same side and the 2 on the other side.  Then I took out one of the wheels from the back and "quartered' it.  Now they are aligned.  Both set of connecting rods are in a straight line. Smiley  In the process I broke one of the screws that holds the connecting rod to the middle set of wheels.  Sad  Have to order that screw.  The middle set of wheels has no numbering or letters.  Wish I had known about aligning the wheels in the beginning.  Wasted a lot of time trying to fix the electrical connections when there was nothing wrong with it.  Once I get the screw and fix the connecting rods, I am confident it will run like it is supposed to run.

Once again, I thank you very much for your help.

Neil 
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