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| | |-+  C&S #22 DC Loco on EX Command Button #10
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Author Topic: C&S #22 DC Loco on EX Command Button #10  (Read 896 times)
palallin

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« on: September 30, 2017, 10:21:57 PM »

The EZ Command manual says this about running a DC loco on Button #10:
"NOTE: WHEN OPERATING A DC LOCOMOTIVE ON ADDRESS "10," BE SURE TO MONITOR IT CLOSELY. SOME
DC MOTORS ARE SUBJECT TO OVERHEATING AND DAMAGE WHEN OPERATING FOR LONG PERIODS OF
TIME ON DCC SYSTEMS."

I have tried for the first time to run my C&S 2-6-0 #22 (from a very early On30 set) using 10, and it will run, fairly smoothly, BUT the motor (I guess_) makes a high-pitched buzz/hum sound that sounds almost like a whistle.

Is this sound telling me that I should not run this DC loco using the EZ Command?

Thanks for any info!
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dutchbuilder


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« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2017, 04:14:06 AM »

No that is normal.
What you hear is the frequency of the dcc data stream.
That's why some motors go belly up.


Ton
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Hunt
?
MBB


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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2017, 08:39:26 PM »

palallin,

What you are hearing is the motor vibration resulting from using a modified AC waveform to run a motor designed to be run using DC. It does shorten the time before failure of the motor.
 
Research "DCC zero bit stretching"   
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palallin

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« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2017, 11:17:44 PM »

Thanks, folks.

I think I will find a DC pack to piggyback onto the EZ Command per the instructions before running the Mogul much.
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?
MBB


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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2017, 12:08:01 AM »

. . .
I think I will find a DC pack to piggyback onto the EZ Command per the instructions before running the Mogul much.


No help,  damage issue remains!

The DC power pack just gives you a separate unit to control the DC locomotive and opens up address 10 as a digital address.   The DC locomotive is still being powered by a modified AC waveform from the DCC E-Z Command Control Center not the DC voltage from the DC power pack.

 
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palallin

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« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2017, 09:34:46 PM »

Oh.  Thank you for that clarification;  I apparently misunderstood the manual on that point!

I guess I need to wire a regular DC pack into the power leads using a center-off switch to alternate between the DCC and the DC.  Shucks.  I thought this would be simpler.
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