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Author Topic: Blue Comet set  (Read 1125 times)
GreyOwl

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« on: December 27, 2017, 11:16:12 PM »

Just joined and this is my first post. Just picked up a used G Blue Comet set at a garage sale for $20 so couldn't pass it up. Been searching to find out the year range it was sold but coming up unsure. Anyway a couple of the drive wheels keep slipping out of the motor and need to find out what keeps the square end of the axle attached to the motor. Waiting until I get this figured out before I put power to it.
Wanting to set up a garden railway eventually so it seems I need to invest in some brass rail instead.
Thanks for any info or direction to my questions.
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armorsmith


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« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2017, 01:09:48 AM »

Owl,

The Blue Comet set is a few years old (not sure of the exact range of dates, Loco Bill will pop in and fill in that blank), however I would recommend rather than investing time and effort in repairing what you have, Bachmann sells complete chassis assemblies for the ten wheelers. The chassis they are now selling are far superior to the one you have, and considering that you have the skill set to dig deep enough to determine the issue, you certainly have the skill set to swap out the complete chassis.

Welcome aboard the Crazy Train of large scale!.

Bob C.
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veetwelve


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« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2017, 05:58:19 PM »

Hi GreyOwl,

It's my understanding that the Blue Comet set was introduced in 1997 and was available through 1999.
Regarding the chassis replacement recommendation... what Bob said, times two!

Good luck,
Jay
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2017, 11:37:02 AM »

Grey Owl,

Jay Nailed it!

90028*   CNJ   Blue Comet Atlantic City Express   1997   1999   Pass    833   Ver3&4   Combine "Halley"    Observation "Temple"
90028   Notes:   In catalog 1997 to 1999 The passenger car letterboards are lettered "The Blue Comet"                     

Chassis replacement is your best option since the blue Comet has either the version 3 or 4 chassis neither of which were very robust.  Your set is a great buy and a very nice set, worth a chassis replacement for sure.

Check out this link for more info:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30394.msg224039.html#msg224039

Welcome to G Scale and don't hesitate to ask us questions.  great bunch of guys here always willing to help!

Loco Bill
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
GreyOwl

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« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2017, 07:35:15 PM »

Thanks for all the info and answers. This set is in great shape for being around 20 years old! As near as I can tell mine has the version 4 chassis. Spent most of the day reading info from all the links given as well as many more.  Found out why the wheel wouldn't stay on. I took it apart to find the Chuff cam was laying sideways inside the wheel compartment so there was nothing for the axles to connect to. Ordered a new chassis yesterday for a complete rebuild.  In the meantime how are the wheels sychronised L to R? Should the rods be going forward at the same time, 90 degrees off, or 180 degrees off. Mine is currently at 180 and it wants to kind of catch every half revolution at slow speeds but smooths out somewhat at higher speeds. Haven't put it on track yet but just running it upside down with some jumper leads.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2017, 10:01:04 PM »

GO,

They should be quartered, with one side going in while the other goes out. It may be because of the problem in the gear box and the gears slipped causing the 180 degree situation which is not correct.  Hard to diagnose without seeing everything.    Your new chassis will be ready to run.

Forgot to mention in my last post, but brass or stainless steel track is needed for outdoors, and I would suggest 10 foot diameter curves as a minimum.  That way if you get more locomotives you can be sure they will run OK.  Same thing with any switches you get.

Bill
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Calchefj


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« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2018, 05:49:31 PM »

Good afternoon,

I purchased what appeared to be a new Blue Comet set off eBay just before the new year.  When it arrived all appeared to be good, and has all the original paperwork including a warranty card.  If I fill this out will I still be able to get the lifetime warranty?  Once I set up the set, it runs on the track 2 or so times around, and then just stops.  If I leave the controller on it may start to move again, or if I put it in reverse for a couple of seconds it will start to go forward again, but then stop again within a few minutes.  Should the chassis be upgraded or might there be some other problem?    It I do replace the chassis, are there step by step instructions?  On the paperwork there is item #58616, which is actually covering item #90028.  I also purchased 2 additional cars from another seller.  I am hoping to have this set as something that I can pass onto my kids.  Any help is appreciated.

Thank you
Jason
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Jason
Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2018, 11:51:25 PM »

Hi Jason,

If you looked at the repair options link( http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30394.msg224039.html#msg224039 ) you will see the options available. You will get the lifetime warranty, but will have to pay the service fee and the shipping cost to Bachamnn and they will pay the shipping costs back to you.  They will install the new Chassis.  It is best to contact them and fully check out your options.  Since you bought the set used and not new from an authorized dealer you do not get 100% free repairs, in the first year of ownership. 

If you have reasonable skills you can take the chassis off your existing body shell photographing each step as you go and also bagging the parts and labeling them as you remove them, you can follow them in reverse order.  If you are absolutely afraid to do it them the best option is to send it in and let Bachmann do it.

Here are some disassembly tips courtesy of George Scheyer's Website:
If you want to work on the inside of the chassis use the bottom side steps.  If doing a chassis  replacement follow the top side steps.

The Bottom Side

    Prop the engine on two scraps of wood under the cab roof so that it also rests on its smokestack. This prevents the whistle and dynamo exhaust from being damaged.
    The bottom cover comes off with four screws down the center line of the bottom cover. Remove all four screws
    Pry out the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box.
    Carefully lift off the bottom cover and place it sideways in front of the cylinder saddle.
    Put the long screw back in the middle of the cylinder saddle so that it helps hold the saddle in place.
    Do your work inside
    Reassemble in the reverse order. Be very careful not to pinch the wires to the lead truck when you reinstall the cover. Also watch for the hook at the rear as it tends to flop to the side and when in that position it makes getting the cover back on difficult.

The Top Side

    Pry the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box
    Remove two screws under the cab
    Remove two screws from the sides of the boiler near the lower center of the boiler
    Remove the long screw under the cylinder saddle
    Remove four screws from under the air tanks. The tanks will fall off.
    Carefully lift the shell off. Be careful about the wires to the smoke unit and headlight.
    Do your stuff
    Reassemble in reverse order.

A big thanks to George for the above info!!

As for a diagnosis it is hard to tell from your description but most likely it is a gear box failure.  If you hear the motor running and the loco does not move it is definitely the gearbox, even what you have described leads me to believe it is a gearbox problem although I cannot be sure.  If you do the chassis replacement you will get the latest Version 5 gearbox in the new chassis.  The version 5 chassis has a proven track record for reliability when properly maintained.

I definitely recommend chassis replacement over trying to repair the older style gearbox on your loco.

Hope this helps.

Loco Bill
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
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