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| | |-+  Annie with a loose-in-box red valve handle
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Author Topic: Annie with a loose-in-box red valve handle  (Read 1470 times)
granpab

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« on: November 28, 2008, 09:38:58 AM »

A year or so ago, I bought 2 Annies from authorized retailers - EBT & ET&WNC (both with the intricate W-something valving.  Both have been on my display shelf ever since.  Today, I found a miniture red tap handle - like an outside water tap handle - loose in the box.

There is one already on the engine but it's not evident to me where this second should go.   I have compared the Annies and my other 10-wheelers without success.  Local hobby shop staff do not know either.

Can anyone tell me where I should be looking to reattach the handle?
 
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Jon D. Miller

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« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2008, 12:34:16 PM »

granpap,

The "W-something valving" you reference is known as Walschaerts valve gear.

Not sure what you are making reference to as a red water tap handle.



Are you making reference to the red Globe valve handles that show in the above picture?  By my count, and I could have missed one or two, there are 21 of these red "handles" in the cab of the Annie.  Where your "extra" handle goes would be anyones guess.

JD
« Last Edit: November 28, 2008, 03:09:06 PM by Jon D. Miller » Logged

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granpab

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« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2008, 04:07:52 PM »

JD
Thanx for the picture - I will use it and look again.
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granpab

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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2008, 10:50:27 AM »

Found it!

Now, can anyone tell me how to get the rear doors off the cab so that I can put the valve handle in its place inside the cab?


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Barry BBT

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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2008, 01:32:52 AM »

Granpab,

You will have no luck on the rear doors.  Only option is to remove the cab.
First, the running boards which are in clips under the bottom front of the cab
have to be removed.  There is a tab forward on the inside of each of the running boards.  The non-air pump side is easy, the air pump side is tough, but can be done.  Carefully wedge the brackets mounted on the running boards loose from the running boards.  Remove the rod for the electric box and the injector pipes.   On the back of the cab in each lower corner there are tabs which hold the cab in place.  Carefully for the tabs inward while trying to raise the cab (the tabs usually break, 1 or both).  As soon as the cab is raised, engineer side first, lift the cab in a rotational motion to clear the boiler.
Done carefully, the cab will soon clear the boiler.  You will see all of the globe valves and perhaps the one with a stem, but no handle.

Reverse the instructions to replace the cab.

It was a lot less fun before the Annie.

Barry - BBT
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granpab

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« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2008, 05:09:07 PM »

Thanx Barry

I have printed your instructions (and highlighting CAREFULLY).  If tab(s) break, would you use pvc solvent to reattach them? 
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Barry BBT

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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2008, 01:33:33 AM »

Granpab,

No, that hasn't been too successful in this application for me.  The tabs are under tension and adhesives don't work too well.  What I have done in the past is to cut a square, cut it diagonally in half, whether wood or plastic, about 1/4" thick glue it into the rear corners of the cab.  Drill a couple of 3/32" holes through the bottom of the floor into the diagonals.  Enlarge the holes in the plastic floor to 1/8".  Make sure the remnants of the tabs are removed flush.  Using the appropriate screw, attach the cab to the floor.

The loops at the front of the cab are also vulnerable, and this technique works on the front corners as well, but there are height changes which will cause the shape of the diagonal to vary.

Hope this helps.

Barry - BBT 
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