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January 19, 2018, 07:29:40 AM
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 1 
 on: Today at 05:10:11 AM 
Started by MatroxD - Last post by MatroxD
Ok, the best way to describe it, is that there was a gap in the rail. The gap is where one piece of the flex track ended, and another began(where you actually place your rail joiner). I thought that I had cut enough for extra slack, but there is about 1/8 of an inch space between the two ends.

I originally used solder to fill it, then going behind, with my Drexel, and sanding. But it left a slight inperfection, and I have a bump when the train runs. The engine is fine (minus the bump of course), but my cars derail constantly. So I am wondering, if anyone else has run into this problem (I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one that has  made  this mistake), and what they used to fill in the void?

I actually did pretty good honestly, as I ran 10 pieces of flex track, making 3 "square" shaped ovals, and this one my one mistake(even though I still kick myself, as it only takes one mistake to cause an issue).


 2 
 on: Today at 01:49:54 AM 
Started by Zytx - Last post by Trainman203
A new decoder would solve everything and give you sound, too .

 3 
 on: Today at 01:45:37 AM 
Started by RGPerkins - Last post by DaveGard
Walthers now lists them as due 31 Mar 2018.

 4 
 on: Today at 12:57:27 AM 
Started by Terry Toenges - Last post by Terry Toenges
I decided the try the Heisler with 4 passengers car just to see what it would do. It took the grade without any slippage. I had to crank it up to about 2/3 power.

 5 
 on: January 18, 2018, 11:45:00 PM 
Started by jonathan - Last post by ebtnut
Jonathon:  I know it's the wrong category, but bear with me - Re:  the USRA Mike, I believe you said there was room in the front of the boiler for more weight if you pull off the smokebox front.  Is there anything I need to be careful about in doing that, like wires to the headlight?  I ran the loco on the McKeesport club layout over the holidays and was disappointed at its pulling power on the branch that has DCC.  The grade is about 2.5 - 3% and it would only take 5 cars up the hill.  The club over-weights their rolling stock at bit, IMO, but even so, I'd like to get some more cars behind her. 

 6 
 on: January 18, 2018, 11:24:20 PM 
Started by richdan - Last post by Loco Bill Canelos
Greg is right, If it was a bulb that failed there would be no resistor, the resistor is only present when an LED is used in the housing.

So if you plan on adding an LED as a replacement for a bulb you will need the resistor.

 7 
 on: January 18, 2018, 10:36:14 PM 
Started by TerencetheTractor525 - Last post by douglas
When is Rusty supposed to be debuting again?

 8 
 on: January 18, 2018, 10:15:14 PM 
Started by Zytx - Last post by Zytx
Been away for a long while, been working on getting a CDL A for a new job.

Anyway, I have a DCC on board 4-4-0 Southern locomotive. It was running fine until I had a brownout of power at my house. Since then (last summer) it deosn't move an inch. I can get it to respond via the headlight only, as in I can type in loco address 03, & then turn the headlight on & off via the handset, but other then that, I cannot get it to move in either direction. Also strange is that when placed on the programming track, it can't find the decoder make or version at all. Just reads "CANNOT FIND CV". I have an NCE Power cab set up. On straight DC power, I get a headlight, but still no movement.

I've run countless google searches as to the solution, but I can't seem to find a working solution. I've tried the CV 8 = 8 , or CV 30 = 2 resets, but alas, nothing. I've tried clearing every consist I ever had for my new layout, still no luck. I've even taken the loco apart to see if I had a burned out circuit, or broken wire, but all is in tact, including no wire shorts or pinching.

It's a beautiful little locomotive, but it'd be sure nice to get it running again.

Thanks,
Robert

 9 
 on: January 18, 2018, 09:52:48 PM 
Started by Robertn8273 - Last post by Robertn8273
I was successful in isolating the crossover between the two tracks, even the switches work. It’s not easy, Len was right, you have to take it completely apart and remove the copper bands connecting all the tracks. There is a dead spot between the frogs which the train runs through then picks up power from the other controler. Next time I feel like taking it apart I’ll cut the tracks in the middle and solder jumpers to shorten the dead spot. But it works! My granddaughter is going to be happy. It is confusing to control with the switches and the right direction, she’ll crash a couple times but she’ll get it.

 10 
 on: January 18, 2018, 09:01:30 PM 
Started by MatroxD - Last post by RAM
You say that you are new, and I think that is the problem, not the imperfection in the fles track layout.  May I ask what you are trying to do.  If we know that we will be able to help you solve your problem.

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