Here is a how-to for a sound decoder install on Bachmann’s new J.
If you have done a hardwire install before, you will have no trouble with this one.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install14.jpg)
Removing the tender shell is easy two screws, and it slides off.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install1.jpg)
There are two copper jumper tabs that need to be removed.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install2.jpg)
Remove the screw(s) holding the board, and pop the rear light leads out of the mount, and lift the board out of the way, to remove the speaker/ pickup mount.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install3.jpg)
End chapter one.
Because the MRC decoder used has a slightly larger speaker than the mount in the tender, remove the 4 screws that hold the speaker/ pickup mount and with a sharp blade remove the speaker ring flush with the frame.
Before
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install4.jpg)
After
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install5.jpg)
Reinstall the pickup frame, and with a file or Dremmel, thin the inside walls of the tender frame just a bit to allow the speaker to sit flush on the bottom.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install6.jpg)
Now we’re ready to begin installation.
End chapter two
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install7.jpg)
To begin the install, the speaker goes in over the grill, routing the wires to the rear of the tender, between the pickup wires, and the magnet will fit into the hole in the PC board .
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install8.jpg)
I like to put the board back into place before setting decoder wires.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install9.jpg)
End chapter three
With the decoder generally in place, the wires are loomed through their respective holes to get the correct lengths.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install10.jpg)
The wires are cut to length with the decoder in place leaving a little extra for stripping and tinning.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install11.jpg)
Remove the wires from the solder pads, strip and tin the ends, and solder them in place one at a time, keeping everything neat and separated as you go.
The speaker wires ,which are connected to the opposite end of the decoder from the harness, and run under the decoder when installed.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install12.jpg)
End chapter four
While you still have the iron hot, remove the two capacitors near the front of the PC board on the firemen’s side, you can also bypass the induction coils if you like, but I have never found it necessary.
Before
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install1a.jpg)
After
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install13.jpg)
Align the decoder so that it, and the wires will clear the mounting lugs, slide the shell back on and replace the two screws to lock the shell down. (the long screw goes to the rear of the tender, short one next to speaker.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f123/river_eagle/N-Scale/install/install14.jpg)
Test, program, and enjoy.
End chapter five
r0bert,
Nice set of how-to photos. I am rejoining the hobby after many years away, I have not done any dcc installs yet, but plan to as time goes by.
What sound decoder did you install?
Why did you remove the capacitors, why are they there?
For this loco, are those 6 wires that look like they are going from the tender to the engine for power, motor and headlight? I suspect I will need to do similar things for the smaller steam loco's I will need to dcc equip.
Thanks,
Charles
Quote from: taz-of-boyds on June 04, 2007, 12:02:37 PM
r0bert,
Nice set of how-to photos. I am rejoining the hobby after many years away, I have not done any dcc installs yet, but plan to as time goes by.
What sound decoder did you install?
MRC Brillance N scale Steam decoder
Quote
Why did you remove the capacitors, why are they there?
The Bachmann locos have RFI supression installed ( caps and induction coils) to meet european requirements, but they can cause problems with DCC decoders, and removing them does not void the warrentee in the US.
Quote
For this loco, are those 6 wires that look like they are going from the tender to the engine for power, motor and headlight? I suspect I will need to do similar things for the smaller steam loco's I will need to dcc equip.
Thanks,
Charles
each model of loco is different, and may require a different set up.
for locos like the Bachmann 2-8-0, 4-8-2 and 2-6-6-2, a standard decoder fits inside the loco, not the tender, but sound decoders would require a differnt approach.
Hi Robert
The article could'nt have satisfied my problem more. Very clear and precise and put to rest any fears I might have had. I understand it perfectly and many thanks.
Regards barry
Just installed a Tsunami 750 (heavy steam) in a Bachmann Spectrum J Class 4-8-4. Took me about 3 hours total. I'm a novice with soldering and with DCC, so I'm a little cautious (another word for slow...lol). It was definitely a challenge, but I am satisfied with the job. I used the capacitor as well, so I hope that was the smart thing to do. I have not tested it yet.....too tired now. Will test tomorrow and post the results.
Many thanks to Robert for an excellent instructional on how to do this. Without your awesome information in laymans language, I would have failed miserably.
lrbusjockey,
did not see your reply with results of your Tsunami 750 heavy steam. Also, which speaker did you use for your N scale class J?
thanks
to ALL, what is the part/model# of the MRC Brillance N scale Steam decoder mentioned earlier in thread?
I am not sure what the MRC part number is but since this article was written there is another option that came out recently. The Soundtraxx Econami steam, it has the proper 611 whistle as an option. That is what I am planning on using.
Brewman, thank you for the reply, I will look into that decoder which appears not to include a speaker. I am still trying to identify the speaker manufacturer/part/model number that will fit in the tender.
I think it is a 1/2 inch speaker, not sure without taking mine apart. Soundtraxx has those as well. If it is too big around like the one in the article, the same frame modifications would have to be done.
Thanks again for quick reply. I am looking at the Soundtraxx speaker but wondered if anyone else had found a better one, or could comment on quality.
thanks
Greetings! If anyone is still looking at this post, is there any chance we could get Robert to re-post the installation pictures or provide a link to where they can be viewed? instructions are great, but having the photos would be even more helpful. Have all materials for a Soundtraxx Economai conversion with 13mm speaker and would appreciate the visual "how-to" guidance. Thank you!
Quote from: kristian on November 17, 2017, 09:07:34 AM
Greetings! If anyone is still looking at this post, is there any chance we could get Robert to re-post the installation pictures or provide a link to where they can be viewed?
I am sorry you are out of luck as Robert has not been active on this site in 3 or 4 years. I wish you the best of luck with your installation though. Sorry I cannot be of any assistance.
O! Ye of little faith, ACY! Don't you know that once something gets posted to the internet it is virtually impossible for it to be fully removed? I don't know if I found all of the original poster's images, or what order they should be in, but hopefully this is enough to get you through the decoder installation, kristian.
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/11.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/1.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/2.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/3.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/4.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/5.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/6.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/7.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/8.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/9.jpg)
(http://trains.rockycrater.org/graphics/misc/jclass/10.jpg)
:D Awesome - thank you so much!
You are very much welcome. Glad I could be of some assistance.
J arrives today (according to USPS tracking), Eco-100, speaker, baffle already here. Pre-reading the Economai instructions/diagram reveals that it has 8 wires including a green/yellow ground wire, which is where they recommend connecting their included capacitor. However the Bachmann board in all the photos shows 7 solder pads and omits the ground. Am I correct in presuming that the ground is integrated in the Bachmann circuit board, or is there some other solder pad or contact point where the decoder's ground wire/capacitor should be attached? I have done a number of diesel drop-in/sound decoder installations before, but this is my first hard-wire steam installation. Any advice (reassurance) is appreciated. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help clarify!
Successfully installed a Soundtraxx Econami 100 DCC/Sound decoder with a 15mm round Soundtraxx speaker. This was my first hard-wire decoder installation. Many thanks to my fellow posters for the how-to pictures. The Soundtraxx hardware was a perfect fit, and I am happy to share some of the notes I made during the project. Hope this helps anyone else who is interested in adding sound to this nice locomotive!
Disassembly Tip
Detach the tender loosely from the locomotive by removing the plastic sleeve from the tender's drawbar post, then slide the tender off of the drawbar. At this point the locomotive will still be attached to the tender by a wiring harness. Remove the tender body shell from the chassis (remove two screws from the bottom, then gently lift shell upward), and you will see a six-pin wiring harness at the front end of the tender. Gently slide the six-pin connector back toward the locomotive until it is free of the circuit board. Carefully slide the connector back out through the rectangular opening at the lower front end of the tender. You will now be able to handle the tender chassis and circuit board independently, which makes it much easer to install the decoder/speaker. The circuit board can be removed to access the speaker mounting area on the floor of the tender chassis. The speaker mounting area consists of a pre-molded cradle with a downward facing speaker grill. See below for details:
Speaker Install
The Soundtraxx 15mm speaker fits perfectly in the pre-molded cradle/grill that is built into the floor of the tender. To access the cradle, you must remove the retaining screw in the factory circuit board. Place the speaker face down in the cradle and route the speaker wires toward the front of the tender. Place a 15mm square piece of packing foam (1/8" thickness) over the top of the speaker magnet and then replace the circuit board and fasten the retainer screw. The packing foam will act as a lightweight cushion that serves two purposes: 1) it insulates the speaker magnet from the circuit board, and 2) it helps create gentle compression between the circuit board and the speaker magnet that secures the speaker against the bottom of the cradle/grill. The tender body serves as an excellent speaker enclosure and the sound is awesome.
Capacitor Install
Once the speaker is in place and the circuit board is re-installed, cut the blue (common) and green/yellow (ground) wires from the decoder in half. Discard the cut green/yellow piece, then twist and solder one end of the cut blue wire with the shortened end of the blue wire coming out of the decoder, making this into one double-wire "tail." Solder the other end of the cut blue wire to the positive lead of the capacitor. Solder the trimmed green/yellow (ground) wire from the decoder to the negative lead of the capacitor. Using double-sided tape, attach the capacitor to the underside of the coal load in the tender. Solder the double-wire "tail" of the blue wire to the far right #7 solder pad on the tender's circuit board.
Decoder Install
Once the capacitor is installed, use double-sided tape to attach the decoder diagonally and flat to the underside of the rear deck of the tender. Looking at the interior of the tender shell upside-down, the left front side of the decoder (8 output wires) should be tucked to the bottom left of the long screw-mounting lug in the center of the tender. The right back side of the decoder (four output wires) should be oriented toward the top right back corner of the upside-down tender deck. Follow the table on the Bachmann parts diagram and solder the wires according to the directions. Once all the decoder wires are soldered in place, re-attach the six-pin wiring harness from the locomotive, then flip the tender shell back over and onto the chassis. The diagonal placement of the decoder on the underside of the rear deck of the tender will ensure that there is no interference with the tender's back-up light assembly.
Summary
After consulting the Soundtraxx tech support staff, who advised that their decoder should work just fine without removing the factory capacitors, I decided to leave the factory capacitors in place. Initially, the starting speed of the locomotive was a little high. However, I adjusted from 28 speed steps to 128 speed steps and then the starting speed was very realistic. I needed to adjust the chuff rate and some of the volume levels, but SoundTraxx has provided a great set of CV guidelines, and this is very easy to do using simple DCC programming. The locomotive runs and sounds great - very pleased with Bachmann and Soundtraxx!