Sounds ominous, but it merely means I have found the last loco I need for my layout. It covers all the bases:
I need a road switcher that will operate on tight radii (18" if necessary). Although, my mainline and junction is all 22 and 24 in. radius.
I really wanted to take on a brass project without breaking the bank. This is certainly reasonable.
Had to be a B&O or one that could be easily made into a B&O loco.
I'm not a scratchbuilder, but I want to start from the ground up. Alot of disassembly and assembly will be required.
Well I found a 'late 1970's' United/PFM USRA 0-8-0 switcher that seems to be all I want. First and foremost was overall function. While it has an open frame motor, it test ran very smoothly and slowly on the LHS test loop; no shorts or binds that could be detected at regular and slow speeds. It is quite noisy, but I think a new motor, idler gearbox and connecting rod will make it a quiet runner.
There are a couple of parts missing; headlight, steam generator in front of the stack, etc. These are readily available brass parts; always seem to be in stock through a few sources.
The B&O didn't use USRA 0-8-0's that I could find--they made their own. However, the L-2 series looked like USRA twins with a couple of little mods here and there. So I think I may take the plunge: Here's my choice for a project locomotive:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3657.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3658.jpg)
Perhaps, with a new motor, there will be room for a backhead and crew (I hope).
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3659.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3660.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3661.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3662.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3665.jpg)
I would put in a headlight, but the reverse light would be non-working, with a lens... just to prevent passing wires from the loco to tender (it's a convenience thing).
Some of you have, no doubt, played with a little brass. Just wondering if this seems like a worthwhile project, before I jump in with both feet? I believe I can turn this into a nice locomotive. This will be a little more involved than the Varney, or the Spectrum projects. Thanks.
Regards,
Jonathan
Looks like a great choice for a rehab. I know you'll do a fine job. I apologize if you're already familiar with them, but NorthWest Short Line (nwsl.com) might be a good place to start looking for drive-train parts. They even have a number of tutorials on the site. Have fun!!!
OldTimer
Thanks, guys.
I have been studying the products and tutorials at NWSL, as well as, the alternatives available at micromark. Looks like I'll have to collect a couple of specialized tools, too (puller and/or press). Perhaps I'll find a club member who already has these tools (fingers crossed).
I'll work on the mechanics first. The shell detailing will be the second half of the project. Looks like this will keep me busy during the winter months, or longer.
Regards,
Jonathan
Yes, the B&O never had any USRA 0-8-0's, only 0-6-0's (Class D-30). They rebuilt a bunch of E-24 and E-27 Consols instead. The rebuilds had larger drivers than the USRA jobs since they began as road engines. Some of the L-1's and L-2's lasted almost to the very end. A can motor and maybe a new NWSL gearbox should be all it takes, since these were nice models to begin with. Cal-Scale parts for headlight, generator, etc. will do the job for the needed details.
Jon is actually a pretty lucky dog! The B&O didn't have USRA 0-8-0s, and neither does he! Somebody put the wrong engine in the USRA box, or Jon got the wrong box, but in any event, the engine is a PFM B&O L-2! The prototypes were rebuilds from E-27 2-8-0s (which PFM also made at the same times they produced various runs of this 0-8-0).
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo858s.jpg
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/bo/bo-s862.jpg
The USRA variant, for comparison:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-60105
Lower drivers, short frame Baker gear (B&O favored the long-frame version, which Jon's model has), different domes, different cab, overall smaller size. different compressor locations, etc.
He also has a later version with an enclosed gearbox, said to be a considerable improvement at PFM, which was reported to have brass engines that ran decently, at least compared with some others.
Oh, Jon's a lucky dog, lucky dog, woof, woof, woof!
Whoa...
For the life of me, I couldn't figure out how this "USRA" switcher looked so much like a B&O L-2. Never studied the USRA photos, just believed what it said on the box.
Now I know a few things I didn't know before:
1. I don't have the original box (I can live with that for certain).
2. I have just used my lifetime supply of luck.
3. I have been told there are no accidents. I wonder if that's more than a philisophical statement.
Once again, J3a-614, you have made my day!
Regards,
Jonathan
Excellent buy Johnathan, Those old PFM/United models are built like a tank. Actualy with some proper turn up, that original motor and drive will operate as quiet as a modern can motor. The gear box and ratio are good on these models, normaly the rubber tube that connects the motor to the box is hard and brittle, both of which cause noise, as does dried and congelled grease. clean out the old grease from the gear box, hit all the bearings with a light weight oil, clean the communtator on the motor and put a new piece of rubber tubing in there. You will have to adjust the tubing so its not putting thrust loads on the gear box or motor bearings, once you find the sweet spot, she will run smooth and quiet. I have done many of these engines and have had guys think I have put a can motor in them, when it was just the old Pittman. If the old motor is done for, a simple can motor like a Sagami, Cannon or Mashma is all you need, mount motor with bathtub caulk and connect it with a fresh rubber tube. I usualy strap the motor to the frame with electrical tape till the caulk cures overnight. Then you can remove the tape and test run/adjust the rubber tube. The gear box floats per sea on these and they are best left this way, allowing the rubber tube to keep it in place. Enjoy your new model!!! Mike
Jonathan,
I followed your last two projects with great interest. You do fantastic work! Sitting on the edge of my seat to see what this will look like when done.
-Brad
NWSteam,
Thanks. This project will go slowly. I will post pictures and updates, but don't hold your breath. ;D
jdmike,
I like to rework the original parts as much as anybody. However, for this project, I am concerned about how many amps will be drawn. I haven't moved to the dark side (DCC)... yet. But, just in case, I will be putting in the most efficient drive train as possible. An ounce of prevention...
I appreciate your comment on the caulk. That seems to be the accepted practice. So, one problem solved.
Regards,
Jonathan
Don't know if this will help, but I remember seeing it some time back; it may have some hints for the things you may want to do.
http://brassbackshop.com/
As for the back up light issue if running strickly DC there is a work around where no wire is needed between the engine and tender for a working back up light, Let me dig around in my old files and hopefully I'll find it for you.
J3a,
Thanks, again. I opened an account on brassbackshop. Not ready to ask questions, yet, since I need to get the loco off layaway first.
For now my biggest concern will be putting in a new gearbox--something I've never done before. The folks at NWSL insist I will need to pull the main gear off the axle and replace it with their gear. This involves some serious pulling, pressing and quartering. The tools are available, but quite expensive. My hope is to open up the present gearbox and discover the original gear is the same configuration as the replacement gear, like the same number of teeth and gear width. I know... wishful thinking.
GN 2-6-8-0,
Would be interested in the work around. I have some leftover Bachmann plastic tender trucks, and have considered the kadee centering spring trick to get all wheel pick up in the tender. That was successful on the bowser and mantua projects. I does involves passing wires to the locomotive.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathon: Replacing the gearbox necssarily means pulling a driver off the axle, then pulling the old gear and pressing on the new NWSL gear. The worm, worm gear and gearbox are a matched unit. This is not for the feint of heart, and you need the NWSL gear puller set, as well as the driver quartering jig. I would begin by installing a good can motor as discussed earlier. Many of those old PFM/United gear boxes were pretty good by themselves.
jonathan-
Last project, huh? I'll bet!
-- D
Well, it looks like I can choose between two paths.
I have a decent motor (not great) and some leftover connectors from an Athearn project. I could connect them to the current gearbox (after cleaning and lubing) and see how it goes.
OR
I could pull out the big guns (dollars) and get the puller, quarterer, gearbox, connectors and can motor. This is clearly the costly way, but the performance would be greatly enhanced, I'm sure.
Thanks, again, guys. I will ponder this for a little while.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jon - PFM United engines were the Cadillac (Lexus?) of brass engines. The gearbox should be fine.
You are a brave man in wanting to disassemble the engine and you probably don't need to do that. If you do be careful with the driver springs. They are almost impossible to replace. If you take the drivers out of the frame you can disassemble the gear box and clean out all the grease and gunk. Be especially careful with the gearbox - there may be tiny thrust washers at each end of the bearings. Clean the gearbxs, regrease it and reassemble it. I've done it dozens of times and I am a complete clod.
Change the motor. Mount the can motor in silicon (not the colored stuff.) Also, you can use a piece of old bike inner tube to isolate the motor. A buddy has converted several brass engines to DCC - he uses silicon and has no problems at all.
You might consider a bigger weight once you put in the new can motor.
Headlight and other items are probably available from Cal Scale.
Good luck - you'll do just fine.
Jon: Really, they are part of the same path. Replace the motor and use the universals in place of the rubber tube as the first step, along with cleaning and relubing the present gearbox. If that doesn't work as well as you would like, then you can choose to go on with the major overhaul either sooner or later.
Note: If you find there isn't enough room to use universals between the motor and the gearbox, you can replace the old rubber tube with a piece of model airplane fuel line tubing, which is not prone to deterioration like rubber is.
Great advice, gents. Thanks.
Got the loco off layaway today so she's officially mine. Perhaps Santa will send me a gift card so I can start gathering parts.
For now I'll start making a parts list, and do some measuring. Need to look for all the little details (lenses, jewels, paint colors, vinegar, etc.).
Gettin' excited.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan:
I'll echo what others have said about the PFM/United locos. I had DCC put into one of their PRR L-1 2-8-2's, which was smooth running to beign with, but it develops an intermittent short in spots, one of those that wouldn't have been evident on DC.
Good find and good luck with the project.
John
I opened up the gearbox this morning--not too dirty, and no wear I could detect. I see what all of you have written about the PFMs. The tight tolerances and over all condition is excellent. I think I'll wave off from the new gearbox. I noticed a slight back and forth movement of the worm, so I added a couple of thin thrust washers (leftover from Athearn parts). Now there's no slop and everything moves quite freely. I will get it cleaned up, and take a few pics when I get a chance.
I expect a little noise from the metal worm and metal axle gear. Perhaps the old toothpaste (or jewellers rouge) trick will take care of that.
Also I found a very slight bind when hand-turning the mechanism. It went away when I disconnected the valve gear. It's hardly noticeable, but I know where to look during the reassembly process.
Thanks for the great advice so far.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan
If you have or can find a July 1991 issue of Model Railroader you'll find a great artical called Diode Lighting Made Easy,in it there is a piece on tender back up lighting using 2 Diodes and a bridge Rectifier to light a 1.5v bulb,you will have to insulate the drawbar pin but thats not to difficult.
I've used this circut and it worked like a charm on my GN.PFM 2-8-0
I will most assuredly look for the article. I like lights. Thanks.
Here's the gearbox all clean:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3690.jpg)
Turns like silk in my hand. Hopefully, the loco will like it, too. Note the added thrust washers. Really made a noticable improvement.
While I decide on the right motor, I'll start on the smokebox next. It needs the most attention.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3662-1.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum:
The frame is pretty much down to parade rest:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3691.jpg)
I scrubbed all the parts, including removing the paint off the spokes. The marks on the inside of the tires are sharpie marks so I'll know which side is the right side.
The frame is soaking in vinegar as we speak. My intent is to paint the frame, and the underside of the tender, grimy black. I'm hoping the paint will stick, even if I don't get all the tarnish off. The other trick will be to file paint off the parts that need to conduct the current to the motor. OK, I need to take the weekend off from building.
R, jev
Now we're getting somewhere...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3694.jpg)
A little update:
With a needle file, I removed the paint so the wheel bearings can carry the current to the frame:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3695.jpg)
I used a tiny drop of gear oil to hold the springs in place. This provided just enough stickem so I could put the wheels back in place, all in one shot. Still, it was a bit tricky getting the springs lined up just right.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3697.jpg)
Here's the underframe all put back together:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3698.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3699.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Black frame, tires, and rods--she's looking good already!
I was looking at the original photos, and was wondering how you were going to mount a front coupler. An engine like this needs one, and I wasn't sure I saw how it was supposed to go on.
Just a tiny, tiny nitpick--I'm not sure, but it looks like you may have one rod set on upside down or something. The rods on the left side have their grease cups (small extensions on the rods at the crankpins, this simulates the grease cups used for crankpin and rod bearing lubrication) facing downward. These would normally face upward.
Still, looking forward to seeing what you get to do with this veteran. . .keep it up.
J3a-614,
Thanks. I marked the rods on the back, when I removed them. When I remounted, I thought I got it on right, but I'll check again. To tell you the truth I can't tell up or down on the rods. Both sides look the same to me. The "cups" appear to be on the top AND bottom. Will revisit...
The front coupler area does have two holes for mounting a KD coupler box like the tender. I tapped 'em for 0-80 screws. I used some leftover crankpins. Looks like it will work:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3702.jpg)
OK, here's a big question, for which I need some advice. I have looking at how to mount a new motor. I understand silicon is the way to go, but you need something to put the silicon on, so...
Here's one I idea where I mount ON TOP of the motor. The advantage is I can fashion some sort of bracket to attach to the gearbox. You see, with a universal type connector, you need to counteract the rotating force on the gearbox (back and forth). The disadvantage is I only have 40mm of length from the mounting screw to the gearbox axle. Like this:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3700.jpg)
The more traditional method has the mounting bracket on the bottom. Then I still need to fashion a separate bracket (torsion bar?) to brace the gearbox. Like this:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3701.jpg)
Of course, electrical isolation is critical, and I'm keeping that in mind. Oh, the motor brackets are pieces of an old Pittman motor I took apart, just out of curiosity. Never throw anything away... ever. ;)
Thoughts?
Regards,
Jonathan
p.s. I could keep doing the rubber tube connector, but that's a last resort. jev
Jon - you reassembled the engine before I could give you a suggestion about the frame springs. It was common practic to put a piece of sewing thread through the spring. This was helpful because the springs had less opportunity to fly away. Once seated with the driver the thread was pulled out. The other tip you already did - put something sticky on the spring to hold it in place. Years ago they used Pliobond or Walther's goo. I doubt if they still make the stuff.
I suggest you try the mounting made from the old motor. You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work. The problem is lining up the motor armature with the gearbox. I also second the suggestion of using model airplane fuel line. The stuff is indestructable and a few feet will be enough for all your future projects. Oh sorry - this is your last engine project (until the next one!)
Merry Christmas to you and yours (and to all those who follow Jon's adventures!)
I always thought Walthers' Goo was one of those products that had the most appropriate name:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-299
Pliobond is still around, too:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-49101
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-49102
And thanks for the Seasons Greetings, and Merry Christmas to all as well. . .
Years ago they had small bottles of pliobond. Then I think they took that off the market. Can you buy small bottles now?
jonathan-
I have a cheapie ultrasonic jewelry cleaner which I use to clean models before painting. It enhances the effectiveness of just about any process you might use to clean, degrease or etch a to-be-painted surface. Harbor Freight sells two of these. One is too small for other than the smallest models but the larger one will hold most HO locomotives and freight cars. Longer locos and passenger equipment might need to be bathed half and half. I doubt if these machines (well, I have only the larger one) would stand up to regular use in a jewelry store or something, but they're fine for the occasional bauble or train project.
-- D
Doneldon,
I will check out Harbor Freight for the cleaner. Upon my last visit, I used a coupon for a FREE ohm meter, or volt meter, whatever you call it. Still learning how to use it. Will be a handy tool for testing current flow as I reassemble the locomotive. A cheap jewelry cleaner would be just the ticket. Thanks.
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
Be sure to take a 20% off coupon along. I think the larger cleaner was
about $60 so the savings is worth carrying a scrap of paper to the store.
-- D
Progress,
The L-2 has its steam generator back (turbo, ooh la, la). Can't tell from the prototype photos, if this is the correct one, but I like it anyway:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3710.jpg)
And the smokebox is coming along nicely so far:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3709.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Railfan%20Stuff/DSCN3662-1.jpg)
In case you're wondering, I won't be soldering the headlight on. I will be using a soft bond of some sort. It has to do with the difficulty of changing light bulbs, if necessary. You'll see what I mean when we get closer to the end...
Regards,
Jonathan
Jon: More impressive work! Incidentally, I was thinking about my prior tinkering with brass engines. I noticed in your pictures that you put the springs into the axle bearings then you put the axle in the frame. I used to mount the springs on the little pegs, then seat the driver bearing. I found that easier for me.
Good idea in making the headlight moveable.
Is it too late to ask Santa for an ultrasonic cleaner?
Here's the tender underframe. Just cleaned it up, shot a coat of grimy black and a little dullcote. The underframe isn't getting the painting or detailing attention that others would give. I just don't spend a lot of time looking at the bottom of my equipment, except to clean wheels.
Although, I did clean and buff the contact area for the trucks and the draw bar post:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3726.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3727.jpg)
I wonder if one of those shiny silver posts would be a better conductor than the brass post? Or if I could even get one?
Regards,
Jonathan
Double Post...
Here's a few more pics. After many attempts at drilling small holes for wiring, I'm going to have to use a 1.5v bulb like the circuitron constant lighting circuit. Even the GOR bulbs would strip their insulation trying to fit through all the little turns. Anyway, here's what it looks like:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3734.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3738.jpg)
The headlight will remove, it's just press fit. In this way I can change bulbs when needed. The plastic lens is epoxied to the brass headlight.
The tender has wet paint right now:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3731.jpg)
The finish will smooth out once it dries, and I've had a chance to bake it.
Homemade, removable coal load:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3732.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
She's looking great! And it looks like this is one engine with relatively little work to do, at least compared with some previous projects! And best of all, it's really B&O. . .
Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!
P.S.: What does your family think of this hobby and this newest project?
Thanks, J3a. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
A little more progress:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3739-1.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3740-1.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3741.jpg)
I will be putting a chain between the coupler and the lift bar. The coupler is plastic, to prevent shorts:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3742.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3743.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3744.jpg)
New wire for the draw bar:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3745-1.jpg)
Jon - I can't wait to see how you power up the rear headlight. Have you decided how to mount the motor?
Woody,
I can't wait to see it, myself! ;D
Actually, I've measured and calculated every way I can think of. Using even the smallest of bulbs, there doesn't seem to be a practical way of putting a bulb in that tiny reverse light. Drilling up through the bottom will upset the integrity of the solder joints holding the light. Drilling through the back will be, well, unattractive when the wires come through the back and down through the tender.
I haven't given up, but that's going on the back burner for now.
After studying various methods, I believe I will be using silicon to mount the motor to a separate, small bracket, that will screw to the present stand. The advantage will be that the motor is still removable and adjustable, plus electrically isolated from the frame. In addition, I can use the present mounting screw to attach the right side motor wire to the frame.
Speaking of the motor, I ordered the NWSL remotoring kit that has a 2032 flat can motor and installed flywheel. It also comes with connecting parts for the gearbox. That motor will be a very tight fit. I will have to stand it up instead of laying on the flat portion. It is probably a little too powerful for this loco, but I'm told it's better to overpower than underpower.
I also have some Athearn connecting parts leftover from some old Geep projects. The connecting rod is two keyed pieces that fit together nicely. I 'believe' if I install a couple of set screws on the the connecting rod, I can forego the torsion bar that stabilizes the gearbox. Sounds like alot of mumbo jumbo right now. I will be spending a lot of time studying and tinkering when the motor arrives.
Hopefully, I can mount the motor close enough to the gearbox, so I will still have room for a backhead. Keeping my fingers crossed...
Regards,
Jonathan
Tender done for now. Will visit the light problem when I get a good plan.
You gotta love 'holiday' vacation:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3746.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3747.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3748.jpg)
Somehow, I lost the screws that attach the frame to the shell. Lucky for me, my spare screw box had a couple that fit. They are screws off a Bachmann project by-the-way. Coincidence?
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3749.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathon,
As always your projects inspire.
Thank you for sharing, it keeps me trying to improve my meager skills on rebuilding locomotives!
As NMWTRR said, your projects inspire!
I do have to ask, though, why place a new wire between engine and tender? I've never worked on one of these brass beasts, but it's my understanding that the whole tender is "live," and the drawbar conducts current to the engine, with the mounting on the locomotive being in an insulated block of some kind. Seems like you shouldn't need that wire, at least for motor power. . .
A bit about the tank being "live," a notorious problem with these and die-cast metal engines was a potential problem of handrails touching on curves, resulting in short circuits. This was a problem the prototypes never had, being "live steam!" As it is, though, I remember watching C&O 614 being turned on the wye at Martinsburg, W.Va., and noting the extreme angles between engine and tender on this very sharply curved track, very extreme for such a large locomotive. Rocker centering devices on the trailing truck were virtually horizontal, likely at the limit of their travel, you could see how the drivers moved sideways in the frame like our models (and something you normally don't see, as prototype curves are much more generous), and the lead truck must have moved sideways on its centering rockers by almost a foot. And of course, you could not walk between engine and tender on the inside of the curve. I didn't hear it, but supposedly someone yelled up to Ross Rowland, (owner of the locomotive and engineer on this day) that he had better make sure he didn't get a short circuit on this curve, that he might blow the circuit breaker on the power pack!
NMWTRR & J3a-614,
Thanks, you are too kind.
I hope I didn't confuse too many about the new wire. That attaches to the left side (negative?) of the motor. I call it the draw bar wire because it's what connects the draw bar to the motor.
I will be changing the wire yet again. I found some prewired micro mini plugs at my LHS. I bought two sets. This will be handy--a quick disconnect for the lights and the motor. I really loathe unsoldering.
You know, I never anticipated shorts on curves from the tender touching the loco. This is something I'll need to look at during testing. I wanted to be able to run this on 18" radius curves, in other words, complete freedom to run anywhere on my layout. Worst case scenario is the loco is limited to my 22" and 24" loops. There are worse things...
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
It's always such a pleasure to look at your modeling.
Why not try an LED in your back-up light? Or, if your light housing is brass or another metal, just run one wire to the actual light and use the light housing as the other side of your circuit. I know it's not completely desirable, but a slightly longer drawbar will let your loco traverse sharper curves without requiring any surgery on the parts which may touch. Or (I'm full of ideas tonight) use plastic grab irons on either the loco or tender so contact won't lead to a short. Plastic may not be the favorite material for carefully detailed models but this could be a reason to do it.
-- D
Doneldon,
Thanks for the compliment. I enjoy looking at other's work as well...
How small do LED's get? The smallest regular bulb I've found is a 1.5 volt. It's tiny--half the volume of a GOR bulb. Even that wasn't going to fit. Probably this is beyond my skill level. I love to tinker, but I also have limitations.
This is almost a job for fiber optics. I doubt if I will go that extreme. For now, I've glued a lens on and can always pull it off and start over... from bare metal if I have to. I bought extra lenses and plenty of paint:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3754.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3755.jpg)
Speaking of 1.5 volt bulbs, that's what I'm using in the headlight. I've tested, completed, and retested my smokebox project and it's ready for installation:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3751.jpg)
I may have used too much resistor, but better for the light to be a little dim than have to replace bulbs and start over. In order to feed the wiring through the boiler, I had to cut the top off the boiler weight:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3752.jpg)
I believe I can put most of the weight back after I've completed the shell (I saved the pieces).
Thanks for the longer drawbar idea. That sounds like the answer. Of course, there may be no problem. I didn't run the loco on my layout before I took it apart. Doh!...
Waiting on the motor...
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
LEDs get very small. The so-called surface
mount LEDs are almost too small to measure.
They are maybe 1.5 x 2.0 mm, ideal for
placement in a light housing.
-- D
Fiber optics may not be that extreme of a solution. The other day I was looking for some lighting options for an idea I had and found some ready to go fiber optic solutions. I don't recall them being expensive, when I get home I'll try to find more information for you.
Re: Potential short circuits between engine and tender
Taking care to avoid such short circuits should not be too much of a problem, and you shouldn't have to lengthen the drawbar, either. The paint on the handrails of both locomotive and tender will help prevent shorts by insulating each from the other, but this will not likely last very long.
The first thing to consider is somehow to insulate the tender body from the frame, and hence from the locomotive, which is of opposite polarity. Beyond the paint on the handrails, mentioned above, the next thing to consider would be how to make the tender body electrically "dead." This could be by insulating the tender body from its frame with thin layers of paper, possibly a coat of insulating paint or nail polish also being insulating combined with plastic screws substituting for metal ones. The late John Allen supposedly cobbled up a whole new tank frame and bottom out of wood for his tenders (and he had to wire truck posts together to get current flow). He took advantage of this work to improve both enngine and tender with a weathered paint job, etc., and a standard drawbar that gave consistent locomotive and tender coupling distances, allowing him to use any engine with any tender.
In any event, I would not alter the drawbar unless there was no alternative. Many older models had their appearance degraded by a too-long drawbar. This engine is not really huge, and your curve radius doesn't sound too extreme for it.
Have fun!
Interesting... As I painted the shell and the frame seperately, there is the possibility I've unwittingly insulated the shell already. Each piece has a coat of primer, gloss paint, and two coats of dullcote. I like the insulating paper or fingernail polish idea. I would have to tap the tender holes, but I have seen plastic 2-56 screws that my LHS. These seem like simple fixes that will be relatively invisible when done.
Thanks, again!
Regards,
Jonathan
I note that the drawbar already has two holes in it for close coupling and wider space coupling for sharper curves. My guess, based on old experience with PFM's, is that if you use the wider spacing, the loco should be OK on 18" curves.
Jonathan,
I drilled a hole up through the tender into the brass light housing. Then I used a clear sproon, (from a Athearn window kit) to transfer the light from inside the tender to the lens area. I used heat sink tubing to attach a 3mm LED bulb to the bottom, added a resistor, and it worked well. I have noticed that my Bachmann 0-6-0-t Saddle tank has this arrangement for the tender light.
(P.S. That is where I got the idea!)
hotrainlover
Happy New Year to one and all!
You have given me some great ideas for the tender light. I like the 'transfer the light' idea from hotrainlover. That might just work, in other words, something I might be able to handle, without doing any real damage.
Anyway, I will continue on with other parts of the project for now. I've begun tinkering with the motor. Here are a few shots of my efforts so far. Note that the motor is just laying in position and not glued in, yet.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3762.jpg)
I'm afraid I won't have room for a backhead. In fact, with the flywheel and large size of the motor, I can just barely get the shell down into position. The flywheel sits in the top of the cab. I suppose with the flywheel painted black, and a crew in the windows, it might not be too noticable. I really wanted the flywheel in front of the motor, but couldn't get the arrangement to fit. I couldn't get the shell down over the motor that way.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3765.jpg)
I'm using a kind of ball and socket arrangement to connect the motor and gearbox:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3763.jpg)
I'm using some old, open frame motor pieces to construct a mounting bracket. There is lots of epoxy smeared around these pieces, in an effort to isolate the motor. When I decide the angles are just right, I will use silicon to attach the motor to the bracket. The bracket screws to the original mounting plate, which is adjustable as well. With this arrangement, I can still remove the motor if needed, for servicing.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3768.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3767.jpg)
Notice there is a strip of electrical tape, as a precaution, to prevent the left side wire from touching the frame.
The motor wiring is fairly well hidden under the frame pieces:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3766.jpg)
I will be doing a lot of testing before I add the silicon. However, at this point everything seems to line up well. Most importantly, I made sure the wires were arranged so this loco would travel the same direction as all my other locos. Polarity seemed like priority "1" when I started tinkering with this part. ;D
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3764.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
I must admit, I laugh a little every time I see the name you've given this thread. Not at you, mind you, but just at how far from reality it really is. I predict you'll finish your "last locomotive project" and start another before summer even gets here.
You're not only making good progress, by the way; what you have looks very good. I don't think you need to worry about isolating the motor from the frame as can motors take care of that for you. And you don't have to worry about gluing things down prematurely, either. While silicon sealer sticks like mad, it's also very easy to remove should you need/want to do so. I'm sure you know that.
-- D
Thanks, Doneldon.
I really hope this is the last project. There's really a lot of time and money that goes into one of these things. I can't go on forever.
The motor does look good... before the shell gets put on:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3769.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3770.jpg)
It really takes some effort to get the shell on. I have hand-turned the fllywheel, and nothings seems to be rubbing so far. This will take some tinkerin'
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan-
Speaking of hand turning the flywheel, you could take it to a machine shop and get it turned down a couple of hundredths to get a wee bit more clearance without materially affecting the motor's performance. (I'm assuming you do not have tooling which would let you do this yourself.) You could try spinning the flywheel with an electric drill while holding a file against it. I think that would take the size down some but it may not result in a completely balanced flywheel which could lead to potentially destructive vibration and wear. Either way (or neither way), good luck.
-- D
Doneldon,
You're right, I don't have those kinds of tools. :) And thank you; a little luck always helps.
Did some more tinkering this morning. Turns out, I can lay the motor sideways and still get the shell on. It's a little tough, and I may end up filing a little on the inside of the shell. However, it does help with the fit a great deal.
I can turn the motor back around and have the flywheel on the inside where I wanted.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3774.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3772.jpg)
I also made a bronze clip that stabilizes the gearbox:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3771.jpg)
It's lined with electrical tape on the inside, and a small metal bar (wire) prevents it from springing loose.
The motor is still adjustable, so I can flatten it out some more. However, it completelly fills the cab of the shell. I'll be lucky to get a crew in the windows. Oh well, I knew that might happen.
Regards,
Jonathan
OK,
If you're interested, here's a minute-long video of the initial motor/mechanism test. Be sure to crank up the volume so you can hear the whir of the horned connecting rod. Cuidado! The sound of me changing polarity on the throttle could hurt your ears. :) Power is turned to 50% in both forward and reverse:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/th_DSCN3776.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/?action=view¤t=DSCN3776.mp4)
Next, a few shots of the shell placed on the frame. I need a friend with a dremel and cut off wheel so I can remove the end of the motor axle. Well, at least it all fits in the cab. Perhaps a little trickery with paint and mirrors will hide the oversized motor:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3777.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3778.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3779.jpg)
My next update might not be for a while. I have to do some boring stuff. Like, I may need to reverse the motor wiring since I turned the motor around ::) ; lots of touch up work to do on the frame; a test run with the tender to check for shorts... and oh, yes... fun with chemicals:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3780.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathon: Just a caution re: the Tarn-X in the pic. Many of those old PFM's were sprayed with a clear lacquer coating over the brass at the factory. You may need to strip it off first if your intent is bring up the bright brass. If you are just cleaning it up for painting, then a good detergent and water wash will suffice.
ebtnut,
Thanks for the heads up!
I didn't use tarn-x on the tender, steam chest or pilot. I considered it for the boiler because of the stains and overall dark condition of the brass (handled allot).
I will test a hidden area with some thinner and see if anything comes off.
My concern is getting the paint to stick. A lengthy vinegar bath seems to have worked with the other parts. Can save the strong stuff for my wife's baubles, if not needed for the loco.
Thankfully,
Jonathan
Experimented with the chemicals this morning.
I dipped the left pilot steps in lacquer thinner for a few minutes, then rubbed and rinsed. Didn't notice any change or any lacquer coming off.
Then I dipped said pilot steps in the tarn-x for a few minutes, rubbed and rinsed. Again no affect whatsoever.
No harm done.
So back to the old reliable. I thoroughly scrubbed the shell with a toothbrush and hot, soapy water, rinsed and repeated.
Now the shell is submerged in vinegar, where is will sit for at least a day. Hopefully the current stains will pose no ill affects when the paint goes on.
Again thanks to ebtnut for the warning. You saved me a lot of wasted effort.
Now the real challenge will be masking off the front of the boiler to get the two-toned effect. I think the neolube will work well, as it did on the smokebox front.
Regards,
Jonathan
They say the devil is in the details:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3785.jpg)
Here's a Dime for perspective:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3784.jpg)
All the working parts are done and ready to go:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3786.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3788.jpg)
Runs very nicely... without the shell. Will probably take a week to ten days to complete the boiler and cab.
Regards,
Jonathan
First Primer Coat. Photos taken ten minutes after shooting the paint.
Don't know if the photo shows it, but there are a couple of little bumps on the steam dome. I will have to smooth that out and give another shot of primer to clean things up.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3790.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3789.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3791.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3792.jpg)
I have had issues with the orange peel effect on some of my previous projects... not so this time. I think I was holding the can too far from the piece in the past.
Regards,
Jonathan
Looks good--nice, even, thin coats. . .anticpating. . .
Thanks, J3a.
This part always makes my heart jump into my throat.
Will be baking between coats. IIRC, for Zamack, the recommendation is 170 degrees for 15-20 minutes.
I read "somewhere" one could bake a brass shell for up to 2 hours at 175 degrees or a little higher. Think I'll play it a little conservative (175 deg. at 30 minutes), as baking is optional anyway.
Regards,
Jonathan
Found some old brass figures to go with this old brass loco:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3793.jpg)
I drilled out the engineer's shoulder so his arm is posable... weird right?
Anyway, here's how they look in the locomotive:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3795.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3794.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3796.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3799.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3800.jpg)
Gotta do something about their faces. My color mixture looks more orange than anything else.
Here's a close up of the front of the loco. I'm using neolube for the smokebox and front of the boiler; the ashpit as well:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3798.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Almost there. Looking real good!
Thanks, ebtnut.
OK. Assembly of the locomotive:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3801.jpg)
Nervous? You bet I am... Hope the motor fits between my crew. I don't trust my measurements.
Went together without too much difficulty:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3802.jpg)
Now to deal with some tiny screws:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3803.jpg)
Shoving the wires over the boiler weight was a little tough, but the smokebox went back on:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3804.jpg)
I still have some touch up work to do before the glamour shots. So give me a couple days for the action photos. I don't even know if it runs, yet! Here's a quickie, anyway:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3805.jpg)
Uh Oh! Your flywheel is showing!
While you're waiting, a little history is in order. Searching through HOSeeker and a couple other sources, I found PFM/United offered the B&O L-2 in 1967 and 1969. I could detect no difference between the two in either catalog. That puts my locomotive between 42 and 44 years-old. Couldn't find the loco in any other year's catalog. Here's the original ad:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3806.jpg)
It says the loco can turn on 16" radius curves. Don't think I want to give it a try... The original price was 49.95US. I found a recent auction in which a PFM L-2 went for $1,100. IT was still wrapped and had never been run. Parts bag was still in the original box... a pretty good sign the loco went untouched all these years.
I know mine has been run quite a bit, based on the missing parts and fingerprint tarnish evidence. Fortunately, the wheels still have their plating, and so far, it has been performing well. Hopefully, adding the shell won't change that.
Well, I should be done in a few days. Will post some final shots then. Thanks for your patience.
Regards,
Jonathan
Looking good. Now that you are almost done have you had any thoughts on your next project :)
Thanks, Matt.
To be honest with myself, I have managed to collect more locomotives than I will ever need. I wonder if that happens to all of us?
The next big train show is mid February. I will be looking for rolling stock kits--particularly the F&C Box Cars. They are a challenge to build, but are beautiful when completed.
Aaaaannnd... I still need a B&O wagon top caboose. The factory painted brass ones are more expensive than a locomotive. So I hope I can find a plastic kit or an old, unpainted brass one for cheap.
Regards,
Jonathan
Sounds like you still have a good number of projects to work on in the future.
If you do get bored though I don't have any DM&IR steam and lack the finances or skills to fix that ;)
A friend bought a PFM USRA mikado in 1969. He's been running it ever since. Brass engines are like the real McCoy - they require maintainence from time to time but PFM was the premium brand. Jon's engine should go another 40 years.
Concerning the color of the face of the engineer - the latest On30 Annual has a locomotive article and the engineer is wearing sunglasses! That might be a little hard to do in HO.
OK, Folks, let's call this one 'done'.
Had a little emergency during assembly. When I started the initial power up, the locomotive was making a huge noise, like a high-speed jackhammer. It was frightening. Turns out my new motor/gearbox connectors take up a little more space than the old rubber tube. I had to disassemble, yet again, and do a little filing:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3812.jpg)
The 'horns' of the horned ball connector were hitting the edges of the notch in the boiler. Didn't take much, but I wasn't too keen a removing any more material. Anyway, problem solved and I got her running this morning.
Here are some final shots of the completed work. Try as I might, I couldn't get the little sunglasses to stay on the engineer's face. ;D Look closely, and you'll see scratches on the motor from taking this thing apart a few times. Think I can touch that up without too much trouble. Enjoy:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3813.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3814.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3815.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3816.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3817.jpg)
The loco runs pretty well, so far. Only problem is going in reverse on a curve. The tender front trucks like to derail. Think I will have to add some weight to the front of the tender. Shouldn't be that hard.
She's not as quiet as I hoped. Motor is silent. Gearbox in silent. Valve gear is silent. Yet, there is a general running noise... perhaps it's my universal connector, combined with the wheels on the rails. Something to study when I run the loco on a regular basis this Spring.
Thanks for following me through this, friends. Enjoyed the company along the way.
Regards,
Jonathan
Wow, looks amazing! You certainly do have a knack for this.
Jon - I bet the noise is the universal connectors. There once was a line of HO kit diesels made by an outfit called Hobbytown (now out of business.) All their connections were via universal joints and the engines all had a decided whirring or humming sound caused by the universals as well as metal gearing.
Once again you have come up with another fine model. You describe your talents as modest, but you really do some magazine quality stuff.
Thinking about the sunglasses gag you included, I remember seeing pictures of PRR engineers in almost white denim coveralls and wearing a shirt and tie! Try that on one of your little HO guys. The Pennsy, by the way, had very strict rules about what crews could wear. I was told by an old GG-1 engineer that he was expected to arrive for work wearing a shirt tie and jacket. They would change into their denim bib overalls before getting into the locomotive. Can't say for sure what the poor fireman had to wear. Incidentally, do you know the make of the brass enengine crew you put into the switcher?
Again, thanks, Woody. You helped get me to this point!
I think the crewmen were a Precision Scale product. They came in a little plastic bag with the folded cardstock stapled over the top. I got 'em for $3 at an old LHS (the good, smelly kind). Was going to use the plastic Model Power guys, but I couldn't pass up these fellows. I'm an 'old school' guy.
I may have to consider a rework at some point and put the fuel line tubing in as a connector one day. I believe you're right about the universal connector. The motor was so big, I couldn't get an angle pointed straight at the gearbox. As this was my first, um, my last brass rebuild, I'll take it as a learning opportunity. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
I think those brass figures might have been made by Kemtron.
Oh, and BTW, great job on the project! :D
Wow- I have been following the thread and watching your progress. You did a great job.
Barney
Excellent job Jonathan.
Full marks!
Thank you, Gentlemen, for the kind words. As always, it was a fun build... mostly. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum:
Don't want to bump the thread up, but I have received some nice messages. Based on the number of views, and kind comments, I'd say this little project went over well. Thanks again, to all of you. I am humbled by your kindness.
jev
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3848.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3846.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3845.jpg)
Excellent job, Jonathan. It really turned out well. Thanks for sharing.
OldTimer
I too have been following along. I think it looks great. Couldn't ask for much better.
Do another project! Do another project! I really enjoyed your series. I've printed all of the pages of this thread and have placed them in my "Bachmann scrap book".
Bill
Thanks, Bill, Thomas and Old Timer. Always happy to share my foibles. ;D
I'll see what I can do about a future project. I don't know that it would be very interesting to anyone but a B&O fan, but I am searching for an old, brass, wagon top caboose to rebuild. There's a Timonium train show in mid February. Maybe I'll get lucky.
Locomotives are quite an undertaking. Despite looking for the best deal on a fixer-upper, the projects do get a bit pricey before they're done. I'm lucky that I didn't need to get a puller and quartering tool this time. I did miss out on some sleep... :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Fantastic job! How about some videos?
jonathan-
You can work on my railroad any time you want. I know that's important to you now that you've finished your own last locomotive project.
-- D
Doneldon,
;D Thanks for the offer! I am focused on scenery work for the remainder of the winter. I'm adding a water column on the approach track of my turntable, and fixing some scenery elements that need attention. Scenery goes slowly, as I make it up as I go along. Should really be following some sort of prototypical area along the B&O line. Would love to play trains, um, get together for an operating session sometime. ;D
NW Steam,
I shoot videos with a point-and-shoot digital camera. They are jerky and blurry at best. My layout is in my garage, so I can't do any real running of trains until the weather gets warmer. I'll try to shoot some moving pictures at that time. I have only run this loco along 20 feet of track for testing purposes. Right now, the L-2 is resting in a cubby on my desk until I can give her a proper workout.
In reply #57, on the bottom of page 4 of this thread, is a video of the mechanism during testing. With the volume up, you can hear the sound it makes. It's not loud, but the universal connector 'whirs' a bit. The sound is louder with the shell attached. The connector pieces fit right between the halves of the boiler, which acts like an amplifier/speaker. I don't have the nerve to tinker with it right now, since it runs. But I will have to revisit the universal connector one day.
Regards,
Jonathan