Bachmann Message Board

Discussion Boards => Williams by Bachmann => Topic started by: 671 on March 20, 2011, 07:43:59 PM



Title: True Blast II Problem
Post by: 671 on March 20, 2011, 07:43:59 PM
     I currently have three WbyB locos. My most recent is the 671 Turbine semi-scale. I purchased this on Friday. Saturday morning I unwrapped the loco and tender, nice reproductions. One item that disappointed me was the type style of the number 671. It looks exactly like this type print only thinner.
     Ok, I can live with it. I may even change the numbers for the correct size and style.
     Here is the bigger challenge. The 'true blast' whistle blows without volume. One must put his ear next to the tender to hear the sound. This is the same challenge that I had on my new WbyB Great Nortern Berkshire, two months ago.
     I found the cause to be the same within both tenders. On the True Blast's electronic board near the outside edge; there is a component mounted vertically, made with a bright metal and is circular in shape. In the center of the circle is a small rectangular slot. I believe this is a variable (adjustable by turning the rectangular key hole) resister. I believe this adjusts the volume of the 'True Blast' sound. Turning the keyway only gave a moment of louder sound. The answer was that this device was bent away from a small blue capacitor distorting its' design shape. As soon as I bent this device on its mount toward the blue capacitor..... PERFECTION.

                      I hope this helps.....671


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: GTBob on March 21, 2011, 09:20:17 AM
This is good info for all to know.  I'll bet the diesel horn board is designed the same way.  Thanks for the heads-up.  Enjoy your your new loco.... :)

GTBob


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: CandO on March 22, 2011, 06:39:05 PM
Good post in case someone else encounters this issue.

For reference....
here is a photo of the one on my E7 from when I posted how to adjust the volume.  It is a potentiometer or pot for short.  In my photo below, it is right in the center.  You turn the shiny metal piece clockwise to raise the volume.

(http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss182/SunfireGT1996/Volume%20control%20for%20Williams%20by%20Bachmann/DSC00358.jpg)


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: pinzero on March 30, 2011, 09:04:49 PM
I had a similar problem with an FP45 and True Blast sound - sound was very intermittent would sometimes work - sometime not - be very low - just overall inconsistent at best but mostly not working - bell or horn.  I had it running on a Fastrack system from a polar express set - CW-80 - thought it was something with the transformer (based on everything that I've read) . 

I Expanded the set recently and replaced the CW-80 with a z-4000 - same problem.  Sound would be inconsistent at best or not work at all.  This post inspired me to have a look - in my case the potentiometer was straight up - but something else was off with it - I remember having a stereo amp that would get static when adjusting the volume - dust or dirt between the contacts  - I adjusted it up and down briskly a few times tested it on my new bench CW-80 ;) and it started working "as designed" - so dirt or poor contacts inside the potentiometer was causing the flakiness there were no soldering problems that I could detect prodding around the connections - I did reverse the board moving the potentiometer away from the speaker - all of the leads were long enough - this was to get better access to the volume control without torquing  anything it back together and it appears to be working for now. 

Thank you for posting your info - you've now fixed 3 Locomotives ;)

-Phil


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: the nitro man on April 09, 2011, 01:06:59 AM
anyone know if the older mth railking stuff is like this? i have a berk & a mohawk, the berk is louder.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: Joe Satnik on April 09, 2011, 07:52:59 AM
Dear NM,

Not sure where the adjustment is on MTH RK steam, but MTH RK "horn and bell" diesels have a volume control under a removable top hatch.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

 


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: the nitro man on April 09, 2011, 02:21:03 PM
these don't seen to have a volume control knob.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: Joe Satnik on April 10, 2011, 09:32:28 AM
Dear NM,

A very small (#0) Phillips screwdriver is needed to adjust the volume on the forementioned diesel.  (Not a finger sized knob.)

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: the nitro man on April 10, 2011, 12:16:17 PM
I pooped the shell off again & I didn't see anything that looked like a mechanical control. I did raise the volume on my Williams girls steam engine though.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: Joe Satnik on April 10, 2011, 03:25:02 PM
http://extranet.mth-railking.com/pdfapp/pdfs/instruction/20ST14812I.pdf

Scroll down to Page 18


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: the nitro man on April 10, 2011, 06:16:53 PM
mine's not protosound. i wish they were.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: Joe Satnik on April 11, 2011, 12:30:47 PM
Look for holes to access the bottom side of the sound board. 

If that doesn't help, put up pictures of the sound board.   

Is there a forum dedicated to MTH where you can ask?


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: the nitro man on April 11, 2011, 02:35:31 PM
Look for holes to access the bottom side of the sound board. 

If that doesn't help, put up pictures of the sound board.   

Is there a forum dedicated to MTH where you can ask?



i'll try & get pictures up in a day or two. i don't know of any mth forums just dedicated to just mth. might be, but i haven't looked.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: M1FredQ on March 03, 2012, 02:03:52 PM
Hey Fellas

I am having a similar problem with my Williams Santa Fe F-3 Black and Red.
You can barely hear the rail sounds. Any advice on the F units???????


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: M1FredQ on March 05, 2012, 11:05:44 PM
With Santa Fe F-3  Black-Red unit, when it is switched on for the first time you can
activate the train sound and it will do it one time only then silence!!!!!!!!!!!


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: EIS on September 03, 2012, 06:51:46 PM
I have never had any luck adjusting that volume pot shown in a post above.  When I adjusted it on my Williams GG1, it was more like an on/off switch for the horn.  When I tried adjusting it on my Williams F3, I could only get the normal grade crossing sequence in the original pot position.  When I deviated from the original position, all I got was a very short beep.

Earl


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: phillyreading on September 04, 2012, 11:31:11 AM
From what I can tell, the volume switch only works on TB-2 before Bachmann, or the Williams only engines.
Seems like there is TB-2 second edition and now a third edition being offered only in the newest or top of the line WBB engines. Only the second edition TB-2 can be bought from Williams by Bachmann at this time.

The new Amtrak phase V engines have the newest TB-2 horn unit.

Lee F.


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: Joe Satnik on September 05, 2012, 12:05:55 PM
Dear All,

Sometimes simple bare "potentiometers" (aka "pots" or "volume controls" or "variable resistors") are held at a factory determined setting with some kind of glue or wax. 

If you break the wiper free by turning it with a screwdriver, it may lose contact with the conducting surface below because of the residual glue or wax around its original position.   

Left, Right and Center (wiper) terminals of a flattened out circular pot:

L----WWWWWWWWWW----R
         rg    ^  rg  rg         
                l
               C

rg = residual glue
WWW... = uniformly resistive surface

If you want to change the setting, you may have to clean off the glue. 

There are nicer pots available, but they are more expensive, and take up more room.   

If you were out of warranty I suppose you could mount a better pot (of the same, or nearly the same resistance value) off the board and run its three wires to the board...

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik


Title: Re: True Blast II Problem
Post by: EIS on September 05, 2012, 03:05:07 PM
Joe,

Excellent explanation for why the pot was working more like an on/off switch.  I did not realize that the pots were glued to prevent rotation.

Again, thank you for your reply.

Earl