Having just brought my first EM-1 home, plan to do a bit of exploring and inspecting before running my loco.
This is the B&O #7600, 2-8-8-4. I will be installing sound whenever the sound units show up.
I put this beasty next to my next largest locomotive; the Spectrum 4-8-2 Mountain with Vandy Tender:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7078.jpg)
You can see the tenders are the same length. Of course, the articulated is much longer than the Mountain. I measure the EM-1 at 17.5" from coupler face to coupler face (draw bar in the long hole):
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7080.jpg)
There are some extra parts included in the box. The dual headlight option (never installed on #7600 I think), optional ventilation plate, coal, and the overfire jets mounted on the side of the firebox. There are a couple of other parts that I haven't identified yet, but we'll get there.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7075.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7077.jpg)
The instructions/diagrams are much more detailed than previous locomotives:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7072.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7073.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7074.jpg)
However, there are still no instructions on how to remove the loco shell. Guess I'm going to have to study the diagrams and make some educated guesses. This is one thing Bachmann should really add to their paperwork, HOW TO TAKE OFF THE SHELL. Oh well, I'll figure it out.
That's all for now, Just wanted to make a quicky start. I intend to take lots of close ups, both inside and out. And describe what I find as best as possible. Hope this will be helpful.
BTW The loco feels nice and heavy. The tender rolls unbelievably free. So far so good.
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
Guess you could not wait, and I quote you- "Won't have time to start tinkering 'til tomorrow. Will start a thread when I get her opened up."
Glad to see you are impatient as the rest of us. It is a thing of beauty. Can not wait to get mine.
Jerry
Today, we'll get in a little closer to check out some details and electrons. Let's start with the tender. Nearly all the prototype details seem to be represented... some are molded on, instead of separately applied:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7084.jpg)
Will be adding marker lamps to the upper corners.
There's a small door missing in the corner here:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7085.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7086.jpg)
There should be a bracket on the tender deck, one for each water hatch. The lids would rest upon these brackets, when open. I intend to add these:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7087.jpg)
Very nice detail underneath. The picture doesn't show it, but the speaker is, in fact, mounted and ready to go:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7088.jpg)
I filed down the shank on a pair of #158 couplers and installed them:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7089.jpg)
Just a touch of conductalube for the pick up brushes and axles:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7091.jpg)
OK. Let's open up the tender and see what's what...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7092.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7093.jpg)
The light bending trick is used on the reverse light, in order to separate the shell from the underframe:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7094.jpg)
Here is where the LED sits:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7095.jpg)
The electronics of the locomotive, but where is the decoder?
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7096.jpg)
I think this is it. Tiny, n'est pas?
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7098.jpg)
I think those bare pins, sticking up, is where the sound decoder goes...
Before we finish for today, let's look at the locomotive clearance issues I'm going to have:
There are three tunnel portals on my layout. I pushed the loco through each portal (on the outside loop; 24"R curves).
The first portal, the loco barely clears the side. In fact, just to be safe, I'll file the portal side down about 1/16".
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7100.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7101.jpg)
The cab won't clear the second portal. I will have to remove about 1/8" to clear this portal:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7102.jpg)
No problems on the last portal. I finally wised up and used a straight piece of track coming out of this tunnel.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7104.jpg)
Here's shot of the tender draw bar. See how it travels over the trailing trucks and attaches to the frame. This is why this locomotive can handle tight curves:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7105.jpg)
Finally, a few detail shots. Notice the B&O logo is 3D, and not a decal. Good for you Bachmann. I am a glass-half-full person. I think, for the money, the Good folks at Bachmann outdid themselves on details and engineering. I need to inspect a little further, before actually running this baby. But we're getting closer:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7106.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7107.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7109.jpg)
Another filed down #158 coupler. This one was hard to put in, but I got'er done.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7110.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
See post above. Regards, JV
It looks terrific!
What part of those 158's are you filing down and why? (I take it that some other couplers were what was supplied?)
The details are excellent, but I have to say that the Worthington SA hot water pump under the B&O plate looks pretty crude in these photos, seemingly out of place compared to many of the other details. It probably doesn't attract attention but given your closeup pictures it was hard to miss...
blwfish,
The Kadee, metal couplers are thicker than the EZmate couplers. One must file the metal shanks down, just a touch, for them to move freely in the coupler boxes.
There is a fellow, on another forum, who has already replaced nearly all the plastic details with after-market brass detail. He posted pictures of his work, prior to painting. He did some amazing work. I can live with most of the stock details. You really have to get in close to notice the discrepancies. I do plan to replace the marker lamps with brass and jewels. Just happen to really like the sparkle effect of jewels in the markers.
Also, the whistle linkage is missing on the Spectrum EM-1. I plan to add that detail as well. Gonna be a toughy. In Bachmann's defense, even the bra$$ EM-1s never had the linkage detail.
Regards,
Jonathan
On inspecting the front coupler noticed what look like a air tank blocking access to the coupler mounting screw is that removable? assume thats what you meant saying it was a bit difficult replacement.
GN,
There is a groove in the tank, that allows you to access the coupler cover with a small jeweller's screwdriver. The 'trick' is to leave the coupler box cover over the tank when you remove the EZmate coupler. It will take a minute or two to manipulate the metal coupler (whisker spring) in place. Fortunately the tiny mounting screw is magnetic, so it's not too hard to get the screw back in place.
Regards,
Jonathan
got'cha!
Looks like one speaker. Any idea on what brand speaker? Someone in another forum installed 21 pin QSI decoder.
Rich
Rich,
Can't see any markings or logos in/around the speaker. It is covered by a baffle on the inside. Can barely make out the silvery face of the speaker through the ports. It appears to be the same size (1") that I installed on my Berk. That was a Soundtraxx speaker for the TSU-1000 heavy steam decoder. The markings on the curcuit board are so small, I can't read them, even with a magnifying glass.
Regards,
Jonathan
Hi Jonathan
Can we see a closer view of the loco connections with the tender.
Looking at the close up of the PC board, I see what looks like a micro processor IC with the diodes and resistors.
Is this loco a non sound DCC controlled type right now?
"Usually the PC boards have some diodes, resistors, capacitors, a couple inductors."
Any PC board I have seen similar to these components has been a non sound decoder.
I am wondering if the sound decoder will be only sound. I know there has been a few messages about the electronics.
Rich
It doesn't look like you can plug a regular Tsunami in there?
Running out of time this morning, but I will get some more shots of the PC board. Look for them tomorrow morning, or late tonight if I get time.
It is my understanding the sound module connection is unique. It will only accept the sound unit being sold by Bachmann. However, if you wish to use your own decoders and sound equipment, it looks pretty easy to remove everything and insert your desired electronics.
Warning: those of you who are not use to seeing perfectly good locomotives tinkered with, don't look down.
I decided I couldn't live with the molded on details. So I shaved them off and added some steel grab irons and a stand for the reverse light. At this point you can still see scratches, dirt and assorted orts. I will get it cleaned up a bit, prior to weathering.
Man, you looked down, didn't you? ::)
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7111.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7113.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7115.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7120.jpg)
Ask and ye shall receive:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7123.jpg)
The components are tiny, and I can't make out any markings that are helpful to me. Perhaps it will make sense to the electrically savvy.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum:
1. My not-so LHS dealer has informed me the plug-in sound units are to be delivered on, or about, 31 December. Not holding my breath, but 'sounds' like there is progress.
2. Just got my second, and final, EM-1 (#7627). That one will take a bit more tinkering to get to the prototype (sand domes).
Thanks Jonathan.
I see at least four diodes for the bridge on one end. The yellow square device is a filter capacitor to filter out the pulses so the IC's have pure DC operating power. Decoders I have seen before have one of those. Some have two.
That appears to be a DCC on board non sound decoder.
I am suspecting you can move the wires around so you have a DC only loco.
Move the wires and you have a DCC controlled loco.
Plug in the sound module and you have a DCC controlled sound loco but that is all a WAG.
I remember my 44 ton DCC ready. Remove some clips on the PC board and connect the non sound decoder wires to those seven connections.
Rich
I'm glad that board makes sense to you, at least, more than it does to me. :)
Started weathering the #7600 tender, but not ready to show that.
While the paint dries I am racking my brain, trying to figure out how to remove the
EM-1 shell. This is important to me for maintenance and superdetailing. I'm tinkering with #7627:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7128.jpg)
To start, I removed the trailing truck and discovered a smallish screw under the cab. This is the only screw I could find:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7126.jpg)
Took out the screw and gently manipulated the body in every direction I could. There is nowhere on the frame to grasp. I tried prying with jewellers screwdrivers. I tried gravity... nothing has worked so far. The diagrams don't show any hidden screws under the domes, like the 2-6-6-2. It's frustrating.
If the Bach-Man is reading this, can you ask your tech folks about removing the shell, please?
Here's a shot of the front and rear trucks. Notice how the main gear appears to be offset. Interesting:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7125.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7124.jpg)
OK. GN asked about the front coupler. Here's a shot of the tank that sits below the coupler box. If I provided enough light, you can see the notch that allows access to the screw. You can also see I've already replaced the coupler in #7627:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7127.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum
In the diagram, I ultimately did find two screws, #10644, next to the steam dome. However, it looks like the screws actually sit under the forward sand dome. Time to flip a coin... oh, please, Mr. B, which dome is it? :-\ jv
Nice work so far.
I know with the Spectrum J-2 (Heavy Mountains) after you removed the screw you had to physically SLIDE the boiler forward before you could lift it up.
Thank you, DG.
Changed my last post. I discovered four screws: two under each sand dome. So...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7131.jpg)
1. Remove trailing truck.
2. Remove small screw under the cab.
3. Lift the two sand domes and remove screws.
4. Lift swiveling pipe from pilot area:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7132.jpg)
THEN the shell will lift off:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7133.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7135.jpg)
As usual, there is tons of lubricant everywhere. I took a touch of alcohol and a soft rag, then began wiping things down a bit, inluding the shell. At least now I can begin the serious work.
Te begin there was a broken hand rail post (damaged in shipping no doubt). I positioned the two pieces back together and applied a bit of superglue:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7137.jpg)
Studying old photos and moving pictures, I have decided that the prototype smokebox front is actually brighter than the model. I believe this is how the front appeared in the 1955/6 timeframe:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7138.jpg)
That's a single coat of neolube. Notice I've removed the markers. Brass markers with jewels will be attached after the loco has been weathered and is ready to be reassembled.
Next we have to move the hatches on the sand domes. On #7627, the hatches went longitudinally.
Washers, 2-56 size, are just right as a replacement:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7139.jpg)
I will build up some epoxy for the mound in the middle:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7140.jpg)
Finally the whistle linkage is added. I intentionally did not get too detailed, nor did I follow the measurements of the prototype. Well, you have to be able to put the loco back in the packaging sometime... that's my thinking, anyway. Plus, you still need to access that dome to get off the shell.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7141.jpg)
I was unable to remove the boiler weight from the shell. Yes, there is a boiler weight. Cool, huh? So I have to work around that while detailing the front.
The first tender is nearly complete. Just needs some dirt and the sound module. I'm going for the weather faded, well used look:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7143.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7144.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Not many people know,but during the war, Santa Fe needed more motive power.So a few guys snuck into B&O's yards and stole one of their EM-1 engines. When they got it home they realized the tender wasn't big enough so they borrowed one from #5026, a 2-10-4 which was going through an overhaul, and spliced it onto their booty engine. ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSqxEUwgMaY
nteresting to see where the two inductors and the capacitors are. If anyone wants to remove the caps, it will be an interesting project.
Possibly the new on board decoders will not have the same issue as the old on board decoders.
Someone in another forum is asking how to remove the on board Tsunami from a Bachmann ON30 as it seems that loco has a motor/light decoder and a SoundTraxx sound "module"
I am seeing a sort of new term, sound module, not sound decoder for Bachmann.
Rich
Entertaining video, Joe.
Making progress:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7146.jpg)
Apologies for the bad photo.
I capped off the new sand hatches with a part from a Tichy Brake Sprue. It is the back of a brake cylinder assembly. Sanded 'em down and glued 'em to the top of the washers.
Weathering is coming along.
Regards,
Jonathan
Hello, new to the B-man forum. I have two of the EM-1 so far. Great engine. Jonathan looks like you do very good work, can't wait to see more.
nkp,
Welcome aboard. This is an exciting time, as Bachmann has provided some great new products for us.
#7627 is approaching completion. Just need to finish the weathering, add the markers and test drive.
Looking forward to adding sound units to these guys.
Thanks for the kind words. Most of what I learned is from reading this forum. Many great modelers here.
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
Making sure you didn't miss the Bach's post. Make sure any changes you make to the decoder that you reset it back to default before installing that sound module. I know you know, ;) but I'd hate to see this awesome loco miss it's debut because I am most certain you WILL do a video of it running around that nice layout you have.
Jerry
Just been watchin,' 'n droolin,' and admirin' the engines and Jonathan's upgrades to his own 7600s--and using washers for new sand hatches is a stroke of genius.
Western fans shouldn't feel entirely left out--a couple of EM-1s really almost did make it to Utah:
http://www.rypn.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31701
Have fun learning about what was, for me at least, a rather obscure railroad. . .and how it almost joined the B&O with EM-1s. . .
Jerry, not to worry... My layout is DC. I haven't even run these locos, yet. Since, the sound units will be here very soon, I will hold off connecting the tender until the modules are installed.
The video may have to wait a little while. When I'm done the locos, I still have to widen a couple of tunnel portals, just so these beasties can make it around the loop.
J3a, as usual, you are a wealth of information. The Utah scenery was breathtaking and quite a surprise. If you like elevation, that would be great inspiration for a model railroad.
Wish I could take credit for the washer idea, but I borrowed the idea from someone else who went much farther than I did with detailing.
One down, one to go (sans sound for now). I don't need to provide a bunch of commentary, except to say photographing a black loco, even when it's weathered, is a challenge. Notice the jewelled markers, and the now moved sand hatches. Enoy:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7148.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7149.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7150.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7151.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7152.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7153.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7154.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7155.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7157.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7158.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7159.jpg)
Addendum
This is the first time I opened one of those coal bags, included in all the Spectrum steamers. It's much "browner" than my other supply of coal.
This is great stuff Jonathan. I hope people here are downloading the photos as I am sure with time, this thread will be buried. Bachmann has changed the website in the past and it could happen again.
I am actually saving each page to my PC as a HTML so if the site ever goes away, I have everything. That is a trick many users are not aware of for Internet sites.
I belong to a bunch of forums but not seeing anything like this yet.
Will the QSI drop right into the tender with no issues? As I understand this loco, the loco is already under control of the on-board decoder.
Bachmann says that both decoders are suppose to be in sync for proper chuff's.
This is not something I will be buying but I am sure some will want to know.
I realize Bachmann wants to sell its sound modules but some people count all the rivets and want something different.
I know you do not run DCC and probably want to go only with Bachmann. I know I would stick with Bachmann.
Rich
Thanks, Rich. I must say, there is someone on the B&ORR Historical Society Yahoo Group who has taken the superdetailing to the Nth degree. He hasn't painted it yet. There's so much brass, I wonder where he got all the parts.
#7627 was detailed and weathered to look like it has been on the road a while. #7600 is going to look more like it has been shopped recently. I will put a bit of dullcote all around, after detailing, and that's about it.
As far as Bachmann/QSI and sound are concerned... I have a select few sound locomotives: Berk (2-8-4), Connie (2-8-0), and now the EM-1 in a few days (I hope). These locos are for running at trains shows with my club's modular layout. I like, or am accustomed to, the Tsunami tech in the Bachmanns. I don't know anything about QSI, except their sound decoder probably won't fit on the 21 plug pin for the Bachmann sound module. In fact, my guess (I am DCC ignorant) is that the plug in module is merely the sound files needed for the already installed decoder, which probably is sound and motion.
Perhaps there will be some kind of instructions included with the sound module, that will explain just what it is.
I like your "save as .HTML" idea. I'm gonna start making that a habit whenever I find on line info that is useful.
Regards,
Jonathan
One fellow in another forum has this loco and is taking it to a LHS that does DCC and he was told, you cannot drop any other 21 pin souid decoder into the EM--1.
I would think Bachmann would come out and say this. If they have, I probably missed it.
Rich
OK, lash me, but I couldn't wait for my sounders. I plugged in the tender on #7627 and gave her a whirl around the layout. On DC the light comes on right away. However, the loco will not start to move until around 80% power. At first, I thought something was wrong.
Here is the tunnel that needed the most work. I have some cleaning up to do, as well as hiding my hack work:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7161.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7160.jpg)
The locomotive runs smoothly, quietly and pulls well so far. I ran it around the layout a few times then added about 20 cars. The EM-1 pulled 'em like there was nothing behind.
Here's a series of very bad videos. They do give you an idea of how she runs. It was difficult to hold the camera, run the throttle, and check for loco problems all at the same time.
Video #2 gives the best impression of how well it creeps and the cab overhang on 24"R curves.
Regards,
Jonathan
#1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dlm9Mh3ToQ0&context=C35cef3fADOEgsToPDskIPoXQQ2lZXWLY3NWZe6FFw
#2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwzbO5nUFh4&context=C35cef3fADOEgsToPDskIPoXQQ2lZXWLY3NWZe6FFw
#3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFHHWxxg_R8&feature=context&context=C35cef3fADOEgsToPDskIPoXQQ2lZXWLY3NWZe6FFw
Hi Jonathan
I am sure you know that is the nature of DCC on board when running on DC. Generally, most who try a DCC on board on DC layout are not aware of that issue from what I see here and in other forums.
Rich
Yessir, you are absolutely right. I have never seen it this drastic before. Usually my DCC locos will be moving along at about 50% throttle.
At the moment, I'm thinking about bypassing the decoder in one of my EM-1s. IF... I can figure out how to reroute the wires. Then I will have one loco for my DC layout and one DCC/Sound loco for the club layout/displays.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on December 18, 2011, 08:53:21 AM
Yessir, you are absolutely right. I have never seen it this drastic before. Usually my DCC locos will be moving along at about 50% throttle.
At the moment, I'm thinking about bypassing the decoder in one of my EM-1s. IF... I can figure out how to reroute the wires. Then I will have one loco for my DC layout and one DCC/Sound loco for the club layout/displays.
Regards,
Jonathan
I have seen 50 percent to as much as 80 percent. Possibly someone with a DCC system can improve that capability. I have never tried that. Make sure your power pack does not have pulse power capability is something I have seen in these forums.
Now bypassing the present decoder is going to be a discussion in the future. YOu can bet on that.
Rich
Rich
Well...
I'm sure we don't need to post about #7600, my other EM-1. It will just be a repeat of everything previous to this.
Let me put a 'period' on my contribution by writing about storage. I intend to run at least one of these beauties at train shows and the club layout. That means I want to put my locomotive is a safe travel case WITHOUT disconnecting the tender repeatedly.
I built a travel box (back in August) out of an 8 foot 1"X4". Used glue and screws. Sanded it, stained it, lacquered it and added some cheap hardware. I am not a woodworker, as you can see below. However, it does the job. All I need is a decent handle.
I use salvaged (free) bubble wrap to protect my travelling rolling stock. 'nuff said. Here's the pics:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7165.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7166.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7167.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7168.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Great idea Jonathan, I am using box's that microphones were shipped in ,after a bit of padding they worked pretty good...I too hate the thought of constantly having to unplug the delicate plugs on DCC steamers
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm50/lkemling/storagebox.jpg)
Hi Jonathan
Below is a link to a discussion about cameras for model railroading that might be useful to you.
A tripod will be a necessity.
Check out the tripod first. Mine would squeak when I swivled it and I had to use a squirt of, YES, WD40 to keep the tripod quiet while scanning the layout.
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/6543
If you want to have fun, put a flat car in front of the EM-1 with a key chain camera looking at the front of the loco. Make a little longer coupling arrangement between the flat car and front of loco. These cameras do video and audio. There are many different types/resolutions.
http://tinyurl.com/6wov326
Rich
GN,
I used tupperware for my brass loco. Spectrum boxes make good travel storage for freight cars. Whatever works, man. :)
Rich,
Yep, I've got two tripods. I use them occasionally. I also have a really cheap camera. I'm hoping Santa has got the hint that I need something with which I can set the aperture/shutter speed, etc.
Enjoyed the links.
Regards,
Jonathan
Camera possibility.
I was looking at Amazon.com a few months ago and someone mentioned a tripod with remote controls for a camcorder. Go look for sony camcorder remote control. That might help some. I don't have the links right now.
The camcorders do still photos also. No idea on quality though.
You might come up with an idea on how to attach a power pack throttle to the tripod. Even if a very simple throttle for doing videos might help
Rich
Quote from: richg on December 21, 2011, 03:23:01 PM
Camera possibility.
I was looking at Amazon.com a few months ago and someone mentioned a tripod with remote controls for a camcorder. Go look for sony camcorder remote control. That might help some. I don't have the links right now.
The camcorders do still photos also. No idea on quality though.
You might come up with an idea on how to attach a power pack throttle to the tripod. Even if a very simple throttle for doing videos might help
Rich
I did read in another forum that some get their EM-1 to start at about 50 percent and then quickly back off on the throttle.
Rich
I made a display type section of track with ground cover
I can put it on a table top and set a background behind it then set the camera on the table top
Thus negating the use of a tripod
However if you want to photograph on the layout then a tripod will help unless you have an image stabilizer camera that you can hand hold
Extra credit:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7173.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7170.jpg)
R,
JV
O.K Just received the sound module for the EM-1 , pleased to see it has both the 7 band equalizer and the reverb,making it I believe a full Tsunami rather that the abeviated unit in earlier Bachmann engines.
Trick will be setting them up.
Has anyone here with a full Tsunami atempted messing with these features yet?
One thing i noticed is that there are only 3 whistles provided as opposed to the 7 in the TSU-1000 heavy steam decoder.
Well, it was bound to happen. Someone finally posted an EM-1 with the sound unit installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kfF3VbQTR8&feature=related
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: GN.2-6-8-0 on December 23, 2011, 05:57:08 PM
O.K Just received the sound module for the EM-1 , pleased to see it has both the 7 band equalizer and the reverb,making it I believe a full Tsunami rather that the abeviated unit in earlier Bachmann engines.
Trick will be setting them up.
Has anyone here with a full Tsunami atempted messing with these features yet?
One thing i noticed is that there are only 3 whistles provided as opposed to the 7 in the TSU-1000 heavy steam decoder.
The specs are clearly called out in the advertising. We users usually have our own expectations.
This has been posted before and clearly shows what is in the EM-1 sound decoder. Store the link in Favorites where you can find it and take time to read everything.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/factory/OEM%20pages/bachmann/bachmann_ho_em-1.pdf
Rich
Been following this, and the engine is a beauty--but that cab overhang at the rear! That's what we have to live with to get the engine around our model curves, though.
Curious though, that the default whistle isn't the Baldwin "hooter" that the engines came with; wonder if that is on the sound module somewhere. Sounds similar to the well-known N&W freight whistle worn by 1218, but not quite as harsh.
We have a similar if not identical whistle here, from a 1949-built C&O H-6 2-6-6-2, mounted on a former White Pass & Yukon narrow-gauge 2-8-2 operating at Dollywood in Pigeon Forge, Tenn.; the engine is decorated for Christmas with all sorts of lights.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWkh02ilF0E
Another night train at Dollywood, this one with a former N&W J (passenger) whistle; haven't had the time to watch the whole thing yet, but the best that I have seen so far is just after 7:00, specifically just after 7:30, in which the train is running at night, under a full moon, and the smoke becomes visible, and is lit up by the open firedoors as the fireman shovels in more coal. Wonder how we would simulate that in HO scale?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duZnpWgG0q8&feature=related
Quote from: J3a-614 on December 27, 2011, 11:35:27 AM
Been following this, and the engine is a beauty--but that cab overhang at the rear! That's what we have to live with to get the engine around our model curves, though.
Curious though, that the default whistle isn't the Baldwin "hooter" that the engines came with; wonder if that is on the sound module somewhere. Sounds similar to the well-known N&W freight whistle worn by 1218, but not quite as harsh.
We have a similar if not identical whistle here, from a 1949-built C&O H-6 2-6-6-2, mounted on a former White Pass & Yukon narrow-gauge 2-8-2 operating at Dollywood in Pigeon Forge, Tenn.; the engine is decorated for Christmas with all sorts of lights.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWkh02ilF0E
Another night train at Dollywood, this one with a former N&W J (passenger) whistle; haven't had the time to watch the whole thing yet, but the best that I have seen so far is just after 7:00, specifically just after 7:30, in which the train is running at night, under a full moon, and the smoke becomes visible, and is lit up by the open firedoors as the fireman shovels in more coal. Wonder how we would simulate that in HO scale?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duZnpWgG0q8&feature=related
I wil post this on your message in case you have not seen this link here yet.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/factory/OEM%20pages/bachmann/bachmann_ho_em-1.pdf
This is from the SoundTraxx site for the Bachmann EM-1. The three whistles are listed.
Rich
Just an observation: This new loco has certainly generated a lot of activity on this web site.
Doneldon.
Indeed it has. There are couple of other forums that have been chatting up this locomotive as well. For we B&O fans, this loco has been the Holy Grail. The brass version is very rare, very expensive, very old, and needs tons of time and money to get running/looking good.
Update on my explorations:
I finally got to break in #7600 this morning. I was having derailment issues on one 24"R curve. The problem was the draw bar. It was bent in such a way, that the draw bar would pick up the tender on a curve. I reshaped the draw bar, so that it rests about 1/3 of the way down the king pin when traveling straight. The bar does ride up a bit on curves, but now does not effect tracking.
So, #7600 now runs just as nicely as #7627. My sound units has arrived, but I still owe a few bucks on my layaway. Hopefully, I'll have the units installed by the February train show in Timonium.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: Doneldon on December 28, 2011, 12:12:10 AM
Just an observation: This new loco has certainly generated a lot of activity on this web site.
I am only watching this forum and another but yours is the best of the two so far with all the photos you include.
Rich
Any photos of the sound module install?
Rich
Below is a link comparing the Bachmann EM-1 to a brass version.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150398991581606.356764.131344576605&type=3
Rich
i know im necroposting but this is valuable info for us guys that got an EM-1 for christmas ;D
As said just wish it had a hooter. ;D
http://youtu.be/mKW73ogzVaY
im going with tsu-1000 heavy steam decoder 8)
The Tsunami is a nice option. It will give you the hooter. Can't remember what it's called in the whistle CVs; "C&O 8" something or other.
I stuck with the original PCB and sound module because I switch from DC (home) to DCC (club) on a regular basis. The dual mode option is the greatest thing since sliced bread for my needs.
Be very careful with the lighting. Trace the wires and make sure there are 1K ohm resistors somewhere. I'm not sure if the resistors are built into the stock PCB or not.
On a side note, I've been running my EM-1s for over a year now. There was a little tweaking up front. An ounce of prevention if you will... Have not had a lick of trouble in all that time. To keep the wear and tear to a minimum, I doublehead the locomotives, if I'm going to run more than a twenty-car train.
Regards,
Jonathan
johathan, thank you so much for the advice here & the prompt reply to the private message ;D
Quote from: jonathan on December 28, 2011, 06:02:07 AM
....So, #7600 now runs just as nicely as #7627. My sound units has arrived, but I still owe a few bucks on my layaway. Hopefully, I'll have the units installed by the February train show in Timonium.
Jonathan
Just found and read thru this subject thread,...very entertaining.
Do you still live in the area of the Timonium show? Will you be there this Feb??
Quote from: richg on December 17, 2011, 07:04:27 PM
This is great stuff Jonathan. I hope people here are downloading the photos as I am sure with time, this thread will be buried. Bachmann has changed the website in the past and it could happen again.
I am actually saving each page to my PC as a HTML so if the site ever goes away, I have everything. That is a trick many users are not aware of for Internet sites.
I belong to a bunch of forums but not seeing anything like this yet.
Rich
Quick question Rich, is that save as an 'HTML only' or 'HTML complete'. I'm still learning this computer language even after 9 years of forum participation. I guess I am old school that thinks I have to save things in 'favorites', or make a print out of a page or so to remind me to return to a discussion.
Quote from: railandsail on January 10, 2013, 07:25:24 PM
Quote from: richg on December 17, 2011, 07:04:27 PM
This is great stuff Jonathan. I hope people here are downloading the photos as I am sure with time, this thread will be buried. Bachmann has changed the website in the past and it could happen again.
I am actually saving each page to my PC as a HTML so if the site ever goes away, I have everything. That is a trick many users are not aware of for Internet sites.
I belong to a bunch of forums but not seeing anything like this yet.
Rich
Quick question Rich, is that save as an 'HTML only' or 'HTML complete'. I'm still learning this computer language even after 9 years of forum participation. I guess I am old school that thinks I have to save things in 'favorites', or make a print out of a page or so to remind me to return to a discussion.
I use Firefox web browser. Upper left of the web browser is File, I have one option, Save Page As.
I click and the PC says Save As,
Bachmann Trains Online - Ask Bachman.html
and I have to select a folder. I have my PC with a Trains folder and many sub folders or just make a new folder.
I can then put a new label if I so choose and usually do. That way if the person goes away or the Bachmann site changes its format, I still have the original page.
Some guys have gone away and I still have their site data.
You can also save a URL or web address to Favorites. Just go into Favorites and label the URL so it is easier to find.
Here is another thing, with Favorites open, Export the Favorites to a flash drive. If your PC dies and Windows is known to die, you still have all your Favorites. I have known people that happened to.
Failure in not an Option, it comes bundled with Windows.
Make a folder in your PC and use both methods to save. Compare the results.
Rich
railandsail,
Thanks. And yes, my intentions are to be at Timonium in February, as long as the boss (spouse) approves my leave request.
My EM-1s are just a bit too big for my home layout. I usually run them hard at the train shows, to make up for lost time.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thanks for that info Rich. I realize how stupid my question was after I googled 'save a web page' and saw how many different options there were depending on a quite a number of factors. Sorry to clog up this discussion with that question.
I'll try to make up for it with a more substantial posting.
Next I have to figure out how to get notification when a new posting is added?....many different forum software configurations. ???
I'm sure that their were a number of fans just waiting for a plastic model of this EM-1 that was previously only available in brass.
There was another large articulated engine that was also dreamed of for years. And finally Rivarossi introduced their C&O H8 Allegheny. What a beautiful engine these are. I have several, but they remained 'unpacked' as I sold my layout anticipating a move overseas.
I just bought another of these engines,...a used one that is pretty heavily weathered. I was a little nervous about the purchase until I received the loco a couple of days ago. WOW, the weathering really does show off all of the superb detail on this loco. I'm going to try and post some photos. (Had trouble posting photos here ??, so here is a link to some of them)
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=296774&postcount=40 (http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=296774&postcount=40)
Interestingly this loco came with an aux fuel tender (the Bachmann one). I rather doubt that the Alleghenys ever used an aux tender, but that looooog package looks real neat
Can someone tell me about adding photos to this forum? I've looked all over and don't seem to find a definitive location/definition.
When I tried a number of times, I believe I read the reqirement that the pimage be less than 128 kp, and that only 4 are allowed to one posting. Is that correct?
Is there also some limit on the dimensions of the image....perhaps width? I would have thought that might be covered by the 128 max definition.
I keep getting the 'upload box is full' even after adding only one 100kp image
r&s
You need a separate account such as photobucket or firefox (I believe that's it). I use photobucket.
Upload your pic to photobucket.
Once uploaded choose your pic and there will be a column of choices. Pick IMG code and it will say copied. Then paste to your post.
Jerry
Can you reference an image posted on some other site than one of the image hosting sites...like somewhere else you may have posted the image??
The reason I ask is that I have tried to resist posting images to ANY of these image hosting sites...I just think there are too many alternative motives involved with those sites?
Photobucket is the only one I have used for a while. You can set your account to private for security. I have never had a problem.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on January 12, 2013, 12:00:37 PM
Photobucket is the only one I have used for a while. You can set your account to private for security. I have never had a problem.
Same here. I use You Tube for videos.
Explain the below statement.
I just think there are too many alternative motives involved with those sites?
Rich
Hi guys: I mm back; Couldn't remember my password to answer some of your questions. Ready to resound my EM-1. Decided to use a medium steam decoder from Soundtrax. Before we lost the site on U tube a year ago, I went back and forth between a site with EM-1 pics that were dubbed with sound tracks from a museum in WI, and the ATSF freight whistle on the medium steam decoder. Both were hooters, and couldn't tell the difference. Then a buddy told me the ATSF engines were built by Baldwin. You can connect the dots for yourself. Will play with re verb to get the heavy steam, sound. By the way, the Spring Mills Depot I-12's are a fantastic caboose for the EM-1s. Bill
Jonathan;
if you want to do a good job of removing the scratches made during the process of removing styrene "clumps" (moulded-on details); before you install the details in question, take some fine crocus cloth (assuming you have used fine sand paper first) and water; then use some pumice and/or rottenstone-the same animal that woodworkers use on their fine finishes, and a little oil. use a Q-Tip@ to do this with a handy cottonball or two to wrap said tip in. When finished, clean it all up with some alcohol. The worst you should have is some "metal distortion", not unheard of on the sheet metal surfaces these great ladies.
Rich C.
are you goanna get a third EM1 they look cool do you have any tips for someone looking for a EM1?
You can get some Very fine paper from auto paint shops.
I have some #2000 grit.
Rich
blf-
The EM-1 was hardly considered medium steam. Plus, it's articulated. I suggest
that you audition some more sound systems before you proceed.
-- D
Hi Donaldon: Been busy putting Tsunami's in other equipment and ready to start the EM-1. Before I purchased the TSU 1000 decoder,I have both Heavy and medium steam, I talked with the Soundtrax people. They said I would get the same effect on the medium steam as the heavy by adding re verb, just that it would shift everything. They didn't say it wouldn't work on an articulated engine, but the description on there site doesn't say it's not there. I also was told if I couldn't use it I could get another offering down loaded for 10 bucks. I haven't found anyone else yet with this Baldwin style whistle. Bill (BLF)
will you run your EM1s both of them at the Essex train show its at the fair ground IVE always wanted to see an EM1 up close how big are EM1s anyways seeya there
thanks
andrewd
Andrewd
you need to go back and read this thread from the start.
this is soo good it should be a sticky