Just put together my $400+ train and I can't get it to even run. Have tried everything. It is bad that they don't have a troubleshooting forum on this website. Can anyone help me to see if there is something else I need to do.
Is this an H.O. set or an O gauge set, or G gauge set?
If is an H.O. set without DCC try using a small car battery(or motorcycle battery) to power the engine and see if it works. You can do the same if it is an O gauge or G gauge set by Bachmann as they have electronic circuits to filter the AC but will run on DC.
Just make sure you don't put battery power to a DCC set or DCC engine!
Lee F.
I really appreciate your response but it was all Greek to me. I don't quite know what gauge set I have. Isn't there a troubleshooting site out there?
The gauge is on the box and in the instructions. How about a model number? That will also tell you if it's a dcc set. You have to read a bit and have some info before anyone can help you. We cannot guess for you.
Kearley, people here are very qualified and will be more than happy to help you, but they need more than, "My train would work." Brand, model, DC or DCC, will gave them a starting point. I'd say the first place to look is to make sure all the power connections are correct.
We have shortened the track and it still doesn't work. Do these numbers mean anything to you? Input 120 VAC 60 HZ, Output AC 16V 1000 MA?
The only other numbers I could find was an Item No. 90047 and K130916. It is the Christmas train.
Ok. That's a bachmann g scale wonderland flyer. Ac not dcc.
Are you certain that the track power is plugged into the track power output connection on the power pack and not the accessories connection?
Yes. My husband is very handy and he has tried everything. I
was hoping it would be a little technicality!
It is Item No. 44213.
If you got it from a local store, I would take it back and tell then it is not running.
A possible oversight, your "wall wart"(black transformer that plugs into the wall) puts out 16vac, but I think it is rectified into DC before it is fed to the track by the knob.
A light bulb for an automobile can be used with wire scraps to check the power supply. 12volt will be close enough for testing, and regular bulbs don't care if you feed them ac or dc.
I think most large scale(G gauge) use D.C. only for the track (labeled "track" on controller) and 16v A.C. for accessories(also labeled). Mine does. Don't hook the ac accessories to the train, you may cause damage to the motor or boards very quickly. Most AC motors run fine on DC, but try to run a DC motor on AC and it will burn out fast. I don't own that power supply or train, but this is how I would proceed. Some answers I won't elaborate on unless you need it, because I doubt that will be the logic chain to follow, but let me know if you are left hanging at the end of a test. Ill elaborate.(or someone will)
Take notes as you go.
Start by disconnecting wires to the track.
Insert plug of power pack into wall, turn it on/off as needed. Unplug for 2 minutes minimum before each test.
I believe you have a light on the controller. Note: Is it on when you turn the knob on?
Yes? A good sign (usually... the test bulb should tell for sure if it is a good sign. For some mfg. this means a short. But with Bachmann it usually means ON.)
No? Note it ,and continue.
Test ac accessory output with test bulb, does it turn it on?(only ac test being done by us)
Test track output, does it turn on?
No? to either, bad power pac. return or buy a new one.
Yes? Power off again.(You noted the controller light was off. It might go on if a short occurs, or light is dead)
Attach track wires to one, or two pieces of track. Turn on.
Does the bulb situation change?( test bulb on track should be lit.)
No? it has a short in the track, wires, or bad connection at the track. Isolate each track section till short is found, then remedy, or just return it.
If your test lamp is lit, power down, and put the loco, and tender, on the rails. Plug loco and tender together(add battery if needed).
Power up. If you have no response, lights, or sound check for bent contacts to the wheels, return it, or let us know that you, want more do it yourself help (large scale forum here is a better place for this subject), or even send it to Bachmann service for repair. They have a good warranty and repair policy.
If the lamp on the controller should light, and the test bulb goes out, as the loco is tested, the lamp on controller is a fault light that turns on to show a short (more common on other mfg.s stuff), and the loco has issues. Follow return/repair advice.
Hope this helps! K.I.T.! and Good luck!
kearly-
I believe 90047 is the number for your set. 44213 must be embossed on the loco as the number for that particular piece. Since neither of these is in the current Bachmann catalog, I'm wondering if you purchased it used on eBay or from a private person. If so, you would have to pay a fee to Bachmann to repair it out of warranty. If you purchased it new and have the paperwork, the Bachmann warranty should apply. However, sending in a loco is expensive and we are quickly moving into the time of year that the B'man's service department starts to get plugged up with increased demands. (Yes, the trains shouldn't be broken until after Christmas but a lot of dads set the trains up "to make sure they work okay," and then proceed to break them.) Since you haven't tried much it's more than worth while to see if we can help.
To do so, we'll need more information. It's very helpful that you identified what you have; we'd be hopelessly stumped without that. But ... we need some details about just how it isn't working. For example, do the lights work? Does the sound work? Are you seeing any sparks? Can you hear the motor trying to go? Are the drive wheels -- the big ones connected to the side rods -- loose so you can move them or fairly tightly held in place? Have you checked to ensure that your power pack is putting out the juice? (If you have any lights or sound it is putting out something. An electrical tester can tell you more, like how much current is flowing. If you have no electrical tester, connect the feeder wire and see if you get any sparks when you quickly place a metal object across the rails with the power turned partway up. Remove your trains before doing it and don't repeat the test unless you have changed something and want to see if it made a difference. Be aware that your power pack's internal circuits may open the circuit breaker when you short the power pack and it may take a few minutes to reset. That's normal and it doesn't mean you damaged anything with your test.) Does your loco lurch when you apply power and then stop? Does it go at all? Does anything happen if you touch your feeders directly to wheels on opposite sides of the loco and tender? (Ty several combinations.) Have you looked underneath to see if there are any narrow metal strips which should be making contact with the metal parts of the wheels or the axles?
In short, describe exactly what does or does not work and tell us what you've tried so far. The odds are very good that we can help you with what is probably a simple matter but we need to know exactly what the problem is. Think of it like going to the doctor. If you say you don't feel good it doesn't help him very much. It's better to tell him where it hurts, or how you hurt something, or that your stomach has been upset since you ate those oysters, or that you have a fever and a dry cough. I look forward to seeing some more details.
-- D
Are you sure this is new. This is actually and old set about 9 years old! I would take it back to the seller and get a refund.
If you do not want to, then go through the instruction manual that came with it and follow the instructions step by step. If you did not get the instructions then here is the link.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/Big_Hauler_Instructions.pdf
These instructions show basic troubleshooting problems.
If you follow the instructions exactly and it still does not run. State exactly what happens when you turn on the power and try to increase speed.
Folks here will help you, but without knowing exactly what is happening we can't help much.
Hi, Kearly.
I am fairly familiar with the item marked 44213.
It is the controller head of a 3 piece Large Scale ( or "G" Scale) power pack and track cord set, Bachmann item number 44213. (Same number.)
(http://shop.bachmanntrains.com/images/Large_Scale/44213.jpg)
The other part of this set is a "wall-wart" AC wall adapter numbered AC1601000.
It has only a round 1/8" 3 conductor jack for an output (to the track).
(It has no AC accessories output posts, which its HO-N-On30 Scales counterpart power pack set has.)
Plug the red cable into the 1/8" jack on the controller head.
(http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mrjA1I8bMAvTzbyVK5S5xeQ.jpg)
The flat rectangular end of the red track power cord plugs into the right end of the "power clip" or "lock on" shown here.
Slide the "lock-on" under the two rails until it "clicks" into place.
Put aside the coal tender and other cars - not needed for troubleshooting.
Place only the 6 main wheels of the loco on the track, being careful that all 6 wheel flanges are between the 2 rails.
Put a piece of paper under the 4 front wheels to insulate them from the track.
Plug your AC adapter into the wall socket, and the adapter's wire end into the controller head.
Does the small red LED in the upper left corner of the controller light up?
Does the LED vary in brightness as you do various things: turn the speed up and down, switch directions, plug/unplug the red cable jack from the controller ?
Troubleshooting beyond this point would need a VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) or a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) or some kind of low voltage test light.
(http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m0x4uX3Um8Ba0tcoXdKCdWg.jpg)
Do you have, or have access to any of those?
DMM's are fairly cheap at Harbor Freight.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
I am actually having this exact same issue with what seems to be the same model.
Brand New Out of the Box: Wonderland Flyer Item Number 90047
All items in the photos above are relevant. I have tested the track with a voltage meter and it seems I am getting plenty of power in the track, moves up and down with the controller head knob, but I get absolutely no movement in the locomotive. Just sits completely dead..no indication of movement.
RDW-
What happens if you touch live feelers to wheels on opposite sides of your loco and tender?
-- D
Would this topic not get a better response over on "Large" group considering this set is Large Scale?
If I touch live wires to the locomotive wheels, should it the engine turn over? If I touch the live source, power clip or feelers from power clip to the wheels, I still get nothing...
When you say touch live feelers on opposite sides of loco and tender, do you mean touch one wire on the loco and one on the tender car? wheels on opposite sides?
Quote from: rogertra on November 26, 2013, 10:22:13 PM
Would this topic not get a better response over on "Large" group considering this set is Large Scale?
Some of the best large scale guys are here already ;). Return if you can. As mentioned a meter, or tester would help.
At the very least a 12v bulb with wires to use as test leads.
If you can turn motor by hand first to check gears (not by wheels, that's bad 99% of the time)
RDW do you have a meter? Does it check continuity/ohms? Is there electrical continuity from wheels thru pickup to pickup wire? To the board?
If jumping
DC voltage to the motor leads causes motor movement a board/switch is out.
-or- With one motor wire off if possible, Does board have same approx. voltage at the motor outputs as the track does? Likely needs a motor if the voltage is good. Even more for sure, if voltage dives when the motor is connected, but not spinning.
I have not gotten to the granularity of opening up the locomotive to see the motor, and see the continuity of each phase from wheels, to board, etc. I will try this next.
I can't turn the wheels by hand or by trying to move the side rods.
I have a voltage meter, which i used to see that i have juice in the track...it's more of a battery tester, so I am not seeing a specific ohms reading...but I can back into it.
Let me make sure I understand:
I should use the powerclip, or other power source with wires and touch the train wheels. Then test the voltage at each stage? wheels, pickup, board, motor outputs?
If you purchased this item "New" you need to contact the retailer you purchased it from or contact the Bachmann Service department directly: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service_2010.php
Your Bachmann purchase has a lifetime limited warranty and will be happily repaired or replaced.
Ok...this is disappointing...I have little kids dying to see this thing run around our Christmas tree...how long does it usually take to replace things? This will determine how much I take this thing apart or keep trying to fix something.
If you contact the service department and explain what is going on perhaps they can walk you through the problem and you may not need to send it in. Have you contacted the retailer you purchased it from? This would be the easiest way to get a replacement.
Called Service department and parts department for days, left messages, no response. I'll call the retailer to see what they can do.
I realize it won't help until Monday morning but call the direct number (215) 533-1600 and ask for the service manager Ms. Laura Harris. She will get you taken care of.
Yardmaster is right Take it back to the dealer you bought it from. If you bought it on Ebay it might not really be new. OK So try the following step by step If you have Your meter working at the 20 volt DC mark , touch the probes to the track at several different locations while having someone turn the speed control up and down. Your meter reading should vary from O on up at several points around your track. If it does the problem is not the track or power pack. If it does not then the problem iis either the track or the power supply. If it does not put the meter on the Power supply leads on the power suppl;y and repeat the test. If the power goes up and down as you move the speed control then the power supply is OK and you should check all track joints to make sure they are firmly in place and repeat the test on the track. If you now get variable power in the track and the loco does not run the problem may be the locomotive. Looking at the bottom of the loco be sure the arrow on the front truck is facing forward if not it could be caausing the power supply to shut down. If it is not any of these, you may have a defective locomotive. Bachmann service does a great job repairing locomotives under warranty. Hopefully you filled out the warranty papers and sent them in. If you did not get warranty papers with your set it is probably not new. I would still try to get a replacement set from the seller. Beyond this I cannot help much more, and can only say that you should review the instruction manual step by step one more time.
If you lost your instructions here is the link to them.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/Big_Hauler_Instructions.pdf
Happy Thanksgiving and good luck.
Bill
Forgot to mention:
Double check the switch behind the smoke box door, not the smoke switch but the other one, try it in both positions. move it rapidly back and forth a few times as sometimes if the are stored in a damp place the contact can become corroded.
You have not said why you will not take it back to the dealer for a replacement, this remains your best bet!!
Quote from: RDW on November 27, 2013, 02:02:55 PM
I will try this next.
I can't turn the wheels by hand or by trying to move the side rods.
I have a voltage meter, which i used to see that i have juice in the track...it's more of a battery tester, so I am not seeing a specific ohms reading...but I can back into it.
Let me make sure I understand:
I should use the powerclip, or other power source with wires and touch the train wheels. Then test the voltage at each stage? wheels, pickup, board, motor outputs?
First, keep trying that Bachmann contact! It wont hurt to ask about turnaround time, they
are holiday conscious in my experience.
As a rule, don't move the wheels of model trains unless they turn very easy. Even then you'll make me nervous ;D
That tester is a very good approach. The actual Ohms aren't as important here as good continuity of the electrical paths. Following voltages can be a useful approach.
If you are 100% comfortable with this type of work, and prefer to fiddle, yes, I think you understood. The board is just a "fancy switch"(unless it changes AC to DC too[a rectifier]). Viewed as such, following the voltage path often leads to logical answers. After checking track/wheels/pickups. I prefer to jump power to inner leads so if the wheels spin I don't have hot wires flying around ::)
Many model railroaders choose the self repair options for fun :D If you are that person, a good multi-meter may be a valid investment. A cheapie auto parts/tool store analog unit is under $20($10?) and often work better than you would guess, if you use the cheap one enough, you'll want a better one ;D research your type options ;).
How electricity flows, AC, DC, Sine wave(basic), amps, volts, impendence(ohm,resistance)-Get a handle on these basics, the rest is just approach to use, I.e.-How is it manipulated this time?
DC is safe for most ac motors, but don't put ac onto a dc motor. It will burn it up.
Removing one leg of motor power before moving power to test the motor, would ensure the board is not containing a short. But jumping a dc source to the connected motor isn't likely to do any harm to the board (I don't know about units with capacitance sensing controls on some of the new high end digital stuff, but I don't think you have that.)
.
RDW-
You should NOT be able to turn the drivers by hand so don't try. You can
do some serious damage to your loco if you force movement.
-- D
There is a button inside the locomotive that has to be turned on. Nobody came up with that simple little answer for us and I am suspecting that is the problem with the person who had the same problem as we did.
kealey_1999
Bill stated that in his last post
"Forgot to mention:
Double check the switch behind the smoke box door, not the smoke switch but the other one"
It is also stated in the instruction manual he supplied on page 10.
Quote from page 10
"If your Big Haulers
® locomotive is equipped with a polarity switch, you will find either a two-position or three-position switch. The
two-position polarity switch allows you to operate according to either NMRA (US) or NEM (European) standards. The three-position
switch features an additional "center off" position that cuts track power to the locomotive, allowing it to remain on your layout while
other trains run"
Jerry
The good thing is that it works in time for Christmas. Yea!!!! And now we all have a little for knowledge.
While the answer was apparently in the instructions all along, I think it would have been more helpful to have had that instruction in the operation and/or trouble-shooting section as well. Instructions always make prefect sense to the person that writes them. ;)
And for me, if instructions came in more than one language, I prefer separate sections for each, not all on the same page. But that's me.
99.9 percent of the time a person has trouble with a new train locomotive it is something simple just overlooked. :o There is no shame in this, it just happens in the excitement of the situation! ;D Hope all is well with both parties trains!
If you have a "Harbor Freight" store near you you can get a digital multimeter for about $7. I usually find a coupon in the newspapers or many magazines that give 25% off a single item. Better yet the ad usually carries a coupon good for a free item with any purchase. Most of the time the free item is a flashlight, screwdrivers, or scissors, but sometimes for a free multimeter!! 8). Over the years I have accumulated six of them and usually give some away at train meets.
The multimeter is the best way to check out problems with model trains!
Happy Holidays to all, big Kids and little Kids ;D ::)
Have fun with your trains!
Loco Bill