I received my new D&RGW Mogul today. It looks pretty good but I had my first incident with it. I set it down on the track and the curved plastic piece attached to the slider came off. I was finally able to super glue it back on but that was really really hard to do. Trying to lay the loco in a position on a sponge "cradle" and get it so I could put the piece on but not break anything on the side it was laying on.
I got the fluted domes from San Juan Car Co., too. It's cool that they are pieces. The steam dome is 3 pieces and the sand dome is 4 pieces. Before I assembled them, I put split shot in each level and poured white glue in to hold them in place. Then, I super glued them together. I labeled the shot case 1 to 5 with 5 being the largest shot. I was able to 3 #4's in the bottom of the steam dome and 2 # 5's in the top part. On the sand dome, I got 4 #5's in the bottom and 2 #5's in the top. That will help a little with the weight.
I'll wait until I get all the pieces before I start on the locos. I have the new boiler coming from Bachmann for the old one. I have the stacks and headlights coming from PSC.
The domes
(http://sarget.com/sitebuilder/images/sdanjuandomes-180x249.jpg)
Gluing in the weights.
(http://sarget.com/sitebuilder/images/weightindome-195x177.jpg)
The old domes and the new domes
(http://sarget.com/sitebuilder/images/newandolddomes-365x262.jpg)
I did a test fit on the old boiler with the new domes.
(http://sarget.com/sitebuilder/images/domesonoldbolier-405x177.jpg)
I used these on a few BLI C16's and they are very nice.
They are leftovers from the C16 kit the previous owner of SJ sold before he passed away.
The air pumps are also highly recommended.
Very nice detail.
Ton
I was very pleased with them. When ordering on line and only seeing a picture, I sometimes never know just what it be will like. Maybe I'll check on the air pumps, too.
I'm also going to look at what cabs are out there.
Everything won't be historically accurate but the only people who will see it on the layout are friends and family and they don't know the difference. As long as it resembles on old wood burner, I'm ok with it.
http://www.bantamodelworks.com/index.htm
2-6-0 Cab, #T-2072
Ton
Ton - That's one of those I've seen. From the pic, it looks like no doors. I wish they had pic from the back. If I have to put weight in the cab it would be visible unless I can camouflage it somehow. I wish they made a peaked roof cab.
By the looks of it is open at the back.
You could do some kit bashing and make the rounded roof into a peaked roof.
There is enough leftover wood to aid in that.
I don't think you would need extra weight because the original cab is lightweight plastic anyway.
For myself i have a cutting plotter so i can make a cab myself from styreen.
I did it for the ten wheeler and it looks pretty good.
Ton
I saw a couple of Moguls with peaked roofs on Harold Minky's site. It looks like his site is down now. Mark Reed and Don Mason were the names of the two guys who had them but I can't find them on the internet to ask them. The guy at Valley Model Trains has a pic of Don's Mogul on his Facebook page. I sent him a message and asked if he knew how to contact Don. This a pic of Don's. I just found Don on Facebook and sent him a message.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/225560_115642838521532_7884686_n.jpg?oh=b48af2e799af713e5d5dbb1493d95ee0&oe=5ADB67FC)
The Banta cab doesn't seem a whole lot different than the stock cab as far as the roof. If all other avenues fail, that's a possibility.
I thought there were more cabs out there but I guess not.
Bill Banta is one and Mount Blue models is the other one.
But MBM only has a cab for the Forney and the classic 4-4-0.
But if the Banta one is the only one available you will have to modify it.
Ton
Quote from: Terry Toenges on January 31, 2018, 10:38:33 AM
I saw a couple of Moguls with peaked roofs on Harold Minky's site. It looks like his site is down now.
Hello Terry,
Can you share the link you have for Harold Minky's site?
Frequently, many sites are archived and available at the Wayback Machine.
URL
http://www.archive.org/
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/
The Wayback Machine says this site has been excluded.
That is really a shame. I was accessing Harold's site up until a couple of say ago.
Quote from: Terry Toenges on January 31, 2018, 12:20:34 PM
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/
The Wayback Machine says this site has been excluded.
That is really a shame. I was accessing Harold's site up until a couple of say ago.
I agree.
Some times sites will configure their 'robots.txt' file too restrictively, effectively blocking the Wayback Machine also, in addition to search engines.
Fingers crossed that the site owner will fix/restore his site.
Took the site down because most of the info is old and obsolete and was long over due to be terminated.
90% of the Bachmann products are gone and On30 seems to be a dead issue.
Most of the traffic on the site is the weathering plastic and wood. That traffic is mostly non-railroad.
All my best techniques were published in RMC.
Always wondered why I bothered. Most people complained the techniques were too hard or didn't follow the directions and bad mouthed the article.
Or someone plagiarized me and their minions said they were a genius with the new technique the person developed.
Excluded it from the Wayback machine back in 2010 when I took the site off the web the first time.
No one was visiting the site from the train world anymore.
Harold
Thanks for responding. I enjoyed going to your site. I visited it quite a few times over the years. It's a shame people didn't appreciate your time and effort at doing things on there. I did.
Here lately I was looking at the Mogul pics you had up since I'm trying to back date mine.
Do you know where I can get a peaked cab for my On30 Mogul?
I asked Bill Banta if his peaked roof 2-8-0 cab would work on my Mogul and he just said that it might fit and I'd probably have to adjust it a bit. If I can't find the one, I guess I'll have to spend the money and hope that it will work.
Terry a 2-8-0 cab will be to big for your Mogul.
I have several of those cabs so i can compare.
The best option is what i wrote before.
Go for the rounded roof version and convert it to peaked.
Ton
Thanks Ton. You saved me from buying one to try it out. It looks like modifying time.
I wonder if the Banta one would be easy to modify.
He only has the one pic on his site.
(http://www.bantamodelworks.com/images/T-2072b.jpg)
I guess it would be find the center of the roof arch and cut the front and back flat on each side of the peak.
Cutting a couple of flat rectangles out of wood for the roof would be easy.
Harold told me the PSC C-16 peaked roof cab will fit. Thanks Harold.
I see no mayor problems converting the roof.
The cab is build up from several layers of thin plywood.
The kit comes in several sheets so you will have plenty of scrap wood left.
And you know old Chinese saying.......measure twice , measure again , cut once ;D
Ton
I ordered PSC cabs
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27331652_10156075560750522_2701465581260495040_n.jpg?oh=1775e3b0a9490a8519ac3e355127e5c2&oe=5B187187)
That will work.
It's plastic but who cares.
Ton
I just received my headlights from PSC. Now I'm conflicted. The PSC light is much bigger than the Wiseman light. I'm not sure which one to use or which one looks the most correct. The PSC one is huge.
The PSC one is #1312 - C16 Early style
The Wiseman one is 0215 - Box style headlight
Is the PSC one too big or the Wiseman one too little or was there that much difference in size back then?
In the pic below is the stock Bachmann Mogul light - the Wiseman light - the PSC light
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27459448_10156076808260522_8787583484538604955_n.jpg?oh=3a93e6fc1a1105b532ead009c403e5ab&oe=5AE2FDBE)
If the PSC light isn't too big, I could probably grind off the inside part of the bottom and some of the inside metal and the light would slip right down over the Bachmann light. That way I wouldn't have to remove the Bachmann light. It does have a separate back plate so I can get to the inside.
On the other hand, I already have a hole drilled in the Wiseman light so that the bulb fits up in there, but I'll have to solder the wires. It's just that one looks so small next to the PSC one.
I set the stuff on the old boiler and did a couple of shots with the different headlights.
I know it's like "Honey does my butt look too big in this dress?" but does the PSC headlight look too big or the Wiseman headlight look too small?
PSC
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27459218_10156079553625522_2435854212698909780_n.jpg?oh=d75f46e2f2f4aee4927ea8ac0ac9d8ad&oe=5AD949E4)
Wiseman
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27655074_10156079569730522_6558625601074556714_n.jpg?oh=a388d7b6f31d6afe3b3c443c22c7b11d&oe=5B150440)
YES!both.
Don't forget that some of those lanterns , especially the very early ones were huge.
The wiseman one is a bit Petit and the PSC one is big.
What i usually do if i am in doubt is to measure and calculate the real size.
That gives you a good impression how big or small something is in the real world.
What I also do when putting parts on a model is to paint them approximately the same colour as the model.
Believe me , it looks much more different than parts of various colours.
Ton
Thanks Ton. That's what I thought.
I've looked at a lot of pics of Moguls on line and I see different sizes.
The one Don Mason used is pretty big.
(http://www.xeodonrail.com/images/gallery_pic/don_mason_mogul_update/Don_Mason_Mogul_Update_001.jpg)
Here's a C & S one with a big one.
(http://www.cabutler.com/rr/on3/photographs/2-6-0_loco_1.jpg)
Maybe once I paint it and the domes and stack, it won't stand out so much.
I ordered some semi-flat black spray to paint them.
You will have to get a good overall balans of the boiler furniture and the Cab together.
And when you use oil/gas lamps , loose the steam turbine.
Ton
I took the generator off. I had the platform with the little lights on backwards. I'm going to remove the little lights, also.
I did some comparison with pics of other real Moguls to compare lights. I think the big light will ok once I get it painted.
As she nears the station, little Johnny will tug on his Dad's coat and say, "Look Pa. Here comes that one with the great big headlight." ;D
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27545540_10156080808850522_2325716912641370883_n.jpg?oh=c96f59a35ac26b19846b8a0f4967ae1e&oe=5B206F2B)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27540102_10156080809040522_3325487179866235922_n.jpg?oh=a4c0ddb30812cd9c908e6c07e0080fbf&oe=5B16B41E)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27655511_10156080809390522_7244034858066824781_n.jpg?oh=9adb346cc2475f89b812faf0a64dd58d&oe=5AE6CFEA)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27336982_10156080809480522_7253674053943855918_n.jpg?oh=2aa285ebe3fe6d5cc5ac9fb9cd8cd1bf&oe=5AE7F50B)
I like the big light. I have seen many photos of locos from that era and most of them had the large lights.
Chuck
This morn, I was looking over the book that I have have called "Narrow Gauge In The Rockies" by Lucius and Beebe. I did see quite a few large headlights.
I got 'er done with the headlight. I took the PSC light and did a bunch of grinding on the inside and cut out the floor. It now fits over the stock Bachmann light so I don't have to mess with the stock one at all.
It took a 29/64" bit to get the right size hole.
Now, I have to do the second one and hope I can duplicate it. Double headed old time looking Moguls will be nice.
I got the C16 air pumps in the mail today. It looks like 8 or 9 parts to assemble and no pictures or instructions. I'll to find some pics somewhere.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27750806_10156082933560522_5390653709234455025_n.jpg?oh=85162624839b238b06f40dbf155ac580&oe=5B2338B1)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27655454_10156082935985522_1743167222179173935_n.jpg?oh=2ef4c556c3d1b69192b37e038c1ffa68&oe=5ADB6BE1)
The light came with a back plate to cover the back.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27459683_10156082931770522_5368046675889709579_n.jpg?oh=c81cbcf3a135b8901bf6606a2c56a250&oe=5AE6899A)
It looks a little cocked because it's just sitting on there. I'll have it straight when I glue it after I paint it.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27459218_10156082927675522_2141442854044880937_n.jpg?oh=7957b2e4610396d9732bd8cb81d7c62d&oe=5ADA2CFB)
I have it sitting on the new boiler.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27545180_10156082929300522_7268850628810629953_n.jpg?oh=208f0899010f47d2dd67204ccb203752&oe=5B18F019)
Nice solution to the mounting your new light. I've been thinking of "backdating" a "modern" 2-6-0 for tourist service and the big headlight would be a nice touch.
I don't like it sitting on the second platform though. I'm going to try figure a way to remove that platform so it sits on the base platform. I'll need to figure how to run the wires. I thought about cutting a slot in the base one so the wires could lay down in there. I could just snip the other platform away because that's plastic, but the base is metal so it would be harder to cut a slot in it.
The air pumps weren't hard. Once I opened the package and looked at the parts trees, it was mostly common sense. They do look a lot better than the stock ones.
Yes i know.
Ton
Old and new Moguls - both DCC with sound. My old Mogul had no electrical connection to the tender. My new Mogul has a plug to connect from the tender to the loco.
I know the sound is all in the tender and the tender wipers are for the sound. I can sit the tender alone on the track and get the sound. Is it for additional electrical pick up for loco from the tender wipers?
That's something I've been wondering about the new 2-6-0s.
Do they run without the tender connected?
I just tried it. There is no power at all to the loco without the tender connected. Not even lights.
So much for the 'easy' tank conversion I wanted to do.
Thanks Terry.
Quote from: Terry Toenges on February 07, 2018, 01:42:07 PM
I just tried it. There is no power at all to the loco without the tender connected. Not even lights.
I think you will have to do some cross wiring on the locomotive side.
The wiring in the locomotive go through the connectors to the tender and there they are spliced into the decoder via the motherboard.
No wonder that when you try to use the locomotive as a stand-alone nothing happens.
Ton
Apparently like all of Bachmann's steam engines, all the wiring (and thankfully, some extra length of electrical pickup) goes through the tender. A pain, yes, if you're wanting to ditch the tender for a conversion (would you even have room for sound in such a case?), but I've noticed that the overall length of the pickup really helps for dead spots of dirty track. My ten-wheelers never flicker or sputter in sound when I'm going around my layout. The only time there's a gap in lights or sound is when they break the 180-degree arc on my turntable, which I can live with. Heck, I don't even need to wire the frogs on the turnouts, for the length of pickup you get with one of those.
Quote from: p51 on February 07, 2018, 05:11:25 PM
If you're wanting to ditch the tender for a conversion, would you even have room for sound in such a case?)
I'm guessing I'll be able to squeeze a speaker into the cab.
I remember having plenty of clearance in the smokebox for a Digitrax DZ126T decoder, maybe a TSU-1100 will fit too.
I wanted to paint my new domes and pumps. I wanted to figure out a way to hold them still while I did without laying them down on something. I drilled small holes in the bottom of them. I put a dab of white glue in the holes and stuck tooth picks in them. I turned them upside down and then let them dry overnight. Today, I just stuck the tooth picks in styrofoam and was able paint the stuff with no problem. When I'm done with them, I'll just clip off the tooth picks underneath.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27751712_10156094032875522_4302427706416842677_n.jpg?oh=baf30648b4b1806536c46870080c3fe3&oe=5ADCAF8C)
I just had a set back today. I had ordered two 1330.1 peaked roof cabs from PSC which is their Cab C (Intermediate) based on a C-16 and I received the package today.
The bags are labeled 1330-1 but the parts inside are for the 0-6-0T (#1648). Plus, there a piece of metal for the roof in there but the 0-6-0T doesn't come with a roof so they got it all screwed up.
I emailed them and sent pics of what I received and told them that their bags are mislabeled. Now, I guess I'll have to deal with making a trip to the post office and sending the others back. What a pain. :(
I did get my gram scale in the mail today so I weighed the different sizes of split shot that I'm using. I had to average it out because they don't weigh the same. I weighed 10 of each size and figured the average weight for each size.
I had bought some 5 gram rectangular weights also, to use on the new one if needed. Even those didn't all weigh the same. They averaged out to 4.8 grams. I had 7 gram weights on the old Mogul and they averaged out to 7.34 grams.
On the new stuff, I was able to add a total of 7.23 grams in the domes combined and 10.62 grams in the stack.
I had added a total of about 51 grams in the old one to get me to where it would pull 3 passenger cars up the 4% grade without spinning. The domes and stack gave me 17.85 grams so I'll still need about 33 grams. If I put a couple 5's on the pilot deck, then 6 of the biggest shot in the cab would get me pretty close.
I heard back from Precision Scale today. Mark from there wanted me to call him so he could explain. All I can say is be very careful when you order from them. I told him what they sent didn't look anything like the picture.
He said you can't go by the pictures because the pictures are over 30 years old. I'm like all I have to go by are the pictures. He said I can just do some cutting on this one and modify to what I want. I couldn't really understand why I couldn't get one like in the picture. I don't know if they quit making them or what. I never got good explanation as to why what was in the #1330-1 cab package looked exactly like their #1648 cab.
----------------------------
Below is the 1330-1 that I wanted
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27972212_10156102506885522_3637565426248855764_n.jpg?oh=04755acb33f5fed53570f828940cb0e4&oe=5ADA26C1)
Below is the 1648 for an 0-6-0T
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27972743_10156102546105522_2924107674079981451_n.jpg?oh=3267c472ed46e27494570fa85d820a36&oe=5B269BF1)
Below is the 1330-1 package they sent me. It looks like the 1648 cab. He said that the package is not mislabeled, the pictures are old. Very frustrated here. I'm glad these are the last things I had to order from PSC.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27867482_10156102557160522_6830772381089241046_n.jpg?oh=c1ea50672baadc00ce45c08dfc3e2670&oe=5B1BDDA0)
It's a stupid reply from the PSC guy as in "I don't give a sh......"
How can you order a part if you don't know what it looks like.
The parts you received can be modified to look like the ones you wanted by cutting of the door section.
Then it looks like the picture of the 1330-1 part.
Ton
Neither of those images look like a proper product example to me.
In the 80's maybe it was passable, but these days I want a high quality, color photograph like the one you posted.
Not a grainy black & white image, nor a drawing.
I did some surgery on one of the cabs they sent me and I guess it will work.
The roof was just a flat piece of metal that I had to bend. The piece of metal wasn't cut even so it was hard to mark it to bend. It was visibly off. I measured the sides. In the pic where the pieces are laid out, there is a dimple on the bottom edge on the metal. I started there and went clockwise. The measurements were (in millimeters): 64.17 59.67 66.24 60.47.
I couldn't get a sharp bend in it so I'll probably get a piece of plastic or balsa wood and make the roof in two pieces instead of the bent metal.
It's a little wider than the old cab so I have gaps on the side on the inside that I'll have to cover. With the pieces I cut off, I should be able to use them as doors on the back of the cab. It occurs to me that maybe they were meant to be cut off and use as the doors. I don't know.
I'm still test fitting everything on the old boiler before I tamper with the new loco and the new shell I got.
I bought a box of long wooden matches to cut up for my wood load. I have to figure out how long to cut them.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27867757_10156103689035522_7604322171465745531_n.jpg?oh=658c7c324be39a928777404d338891b5&oe=5B134CC6)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27750846_10156103689105522_1213012294198952516_n.jpg?oh=432a56e89bc8006a48f7664025bdda48&oe=5ADA35DA)
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27857825_10156103689235522_2308559040081936246_n.jpg?oh=b2adb26dd743d61c9401bc139430b9ff&oe=5AD83AA3)
Looks perfectly fine to me, especially considering the cab you purchased wasn't made to fit the model you're using it on. You've done a nice job modifying it to fit so far.
Your locomotive has taken on a very different appearance from the original. Looks good.
Thank you. I'm quite pleased with the way it is looking. I've never attempted a loco back date like this.
I had to cut some off the front wall of the cab, down at the bottom so the cab would slip down over the boiler. I had to bend up a little the piping and valves that butt up again the cab on the outside. It wasn't by much so it's not really noticeable. They were keeping back of the cab sticking out.
As an experienced re modeller myself you are doing great Terry, compliments.
Ton
Thanks Ton. With these latest pics, I really have the look I was trying to achieve. That makes me happy.
I went out and got some balsa wood today for the cab roof and some strip wood to use on the bottom inside to fill in the gaps.
I put the back doors on the cab and some balsa wood around the base on the inside to close the gaps.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27973309_10156106770365522_3402108176841128944_n.jpg?oh=d91c4b41fe4e1f3e74d40fbd5dce1966&oe=5B0D75C9)
I made a balsa wood roof. I even got a little creative and put some wood trim around it. I won't glue it yet because it will be eaiser to paint the inside without the roof on. I thought ahead on this one and cut two sets of all the wood pieces. I put one set in a bag for now. When I go to do the second cab, I'll already have the wood cut.
(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/27867828_10156106770370522_6037769099158434135_n.jpg?oh=cbc3ccdaad271303695da43a7cede350&oe=5B1BB286)
Isn't there supposed to be a vent hatch on top of the roof or is that to modern?
Ton
I've looked at a lot of pics and I've only seen 1 or 2 peaked roofs with a hatch. Most of them don't have them. I haven't seen hatches on any of the model ones like Bachmann's or Atlas. I have seen some curved cabs without them.
One problem with looking at pics is that overhead shots are hard to find, especially from long ago of the real ones. Old photos were usually taken by someone on the ground and the top to roof isn't usually visible.
What I'm really trying to say is that trying to put a hatch on my peaked roof is above my pay grade. ;D
Would the wood trim retain water on the roof? Just wondering. It all looks really good. Will be a nice piece when you are finished.
Have you thought about the paint scheme yet? Basic black or something colorful?
I'm going to use semi flat black on the things I'm adding. I have the new one that I just bought and the new shell that I ordered from Bachmann to put on the old frame. The boilers are green with a dark gray front. I'm not going to try to change that.
I've seen some other locos with the trim. That's why I did it. I considered the water aspect, too. I guess I could cut slots at the corners. Bachmann's old time 4-4-0's have the ridge on them. So did Rivarossi's.
(https://cdn3.volusion.com/ztna9.tft5b/v/vspfiles/photos/BAC-51102-2.jpg?1478700087)
Looking at some old line drawings I have, the roof 'trim' varied all over the place. Some locos didn't have any roof trim. Some just had it on the side edges, creating sort of a gutter for water. Some just had a board on the rear edge, keeping water from flying all over the fireman I guess. Some had it all the way around, like your doing. The all around style appears to have a 1", maybe 1-1/2" channel mitered into the rear corners to let water escape.
Unfortunately the drawings are very faded blue lines on bluish paper, and they don't scan worth a dang.
Len
I thought that maybe it was to help brace or strengthen the roof.
Quote from: Terry Toenges on February 14, 2018, 03:00:08 PM
I thought that maybe it was to help brace or strengthen the roof.
That could be too. The drawings I have don't say why the boards are there, they just show them.
Len
Bracing the roof is done inside.
What Len says, they are there simply to divert water from the roof.
Ton
I would think there would be slots at the corners or something to let the water out. There aren't any Bachmann's locos. Seems like Bachmann would do it correctly since they put them on there.
I saw some on line with just ridges along the sides. I could understand those being used to channel water. I'm just trying to figure out about the ones go around the whole perimeter with no openings.
Maybe whoever did the tooling didn't think a scale 1" gap at the rear corners would be noticed.
Len
I guess that's possible. I did see pics of real ones with trim all around. I'll have to search those out again.
A private swimming pool? ;D
Ton
I got to looking around on line and in some of my books and I could only find a few like that. There again, most of them I couldn't actually see the roof but I couldn't detect any trim on the parts I could see.
Maybe it's because I've been around Bachmann's 4-4-0's with the roof trim for so long that it was implanted in my mind that that is the way they were. I never had any real reason to take an in-depth look into the roofs until now.
"Bachmann made it so it must be true." ;D
I went through my railroad books dealing old steam and found very little. The only ones that looked like they had it all around were Virginia and Truckee's #11 and #18. Some had the side rails. A Winan's Camel appeared to have it on the sides and back.
Theses are my books that I checked:
Narrow Gauge In The Rockies by Lucius Beebe and Charles Clegg
Hear The Train Blow by Lucius Beebe and Charle Clegg
Early American Steam Locomotives by Reed Kinert
Pacific Slope Railroads by George Abdill
A Locomotive Engineer's Album by George Abdill
Civil War Railroads - A Pictorial Story of the War Between the States,1861-1865 by George Abdill
Rails West by George Abdill P64 - #815 Union Pacific - side rails. P97 - #8 St Louis, Hannibal, & Keokuk - side rails. P100 - #72 Katy – side rails. P101 - # 124 Kansas City & Pacific - side rails. P102 - #75 and #14 Missouri, Kansas &Texas – side rails. P113 - #1 Kansas City, Pittsburg & Gulf - side rails. #2 Kansas City, Fort Smith & Southern - side rails. P115 - #140 and #11 Kansas City, Pittsburg & Gulf - side rails. P156 - #380 Southern Pacific - side rails.
The Movie Railroads by Larry Jensen P156 & 158 #11 & #18 Virginia & Truckee – rails all around.
Iron Horses - American Locomotives 1829-1900 by E.P. Alexander
Early American Locomotives by John H. White Jr. P39 - #242 Boston & Albany - side rails
Railways by C. Hamilton Ellis
Portraits of the Iron Horse by Otto & Robert S. Henry
Pioneer Railroads by Hank Wiend Bowman P74 - #65 B & O Winans Camel - 3 edges.
The Baldwin Locomotive Works 1831-1915 by John K. Brown
Nevada State Railroad Museum Equipment Guidebook Prepared by Staff & Friends
California State Railroad Musem Railroading In California And The West Richard Steinheimer
Railroads In The Early Days Of Steam by American Heritage Society
When I glued the cabs together, I had to cut notches in the top rails on the walls so the sides would fit flush with the front and back.
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I got the cabs painted and I got my roofs assembled tonight. I took the trim off of them. I put some balsa along the seam on the inside and made some gussets so they would hold their shape. That was kind hard to do and it was just a lot of eyeballing instead of measuring so it looked close to what I wanted. It all turned out pretty good. I won't permanently attach them yet because I'll have to add the people when they arrive and figure out how much weight I'll add.
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The gussets are all in place. I still have to paint them.
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As a side note - While I was in the check out line at Hobby Lobby buying the balsa wood, I saw these little clothes pins. They are about 1/3 the size of regular ones. I pondered on them a bit and thought maybe I'll find a use for them. They turned out to be perfect for holding the wood to the cab sides while I glued the roof pieces together. Regular clothes pins would have crushed the balsa wood but these had just enough spring and not to much. The notch in them that normally goes over the clothes line was big enough to fit around the top of the window frame.
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I got some of the stuff painted and it's sitting on the old boiler now. The headlight and cab will need another coat of paint. I had to sand those a little.
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I am experimenting with different wood loads. These are the extra thick long matches cut to 1/2" which is 2' in 1/48th scale. 3/8" or 16" scale looked too short and stubby. I tried a few different colors on the matches. I painted one side with burnt umber and went over it with brown ink that looks kind of bluish. That came out the best color wise. I might still go find some regular long matches that aren't so chunky because these look kind of large.
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Another shot of the stuff on the old one. I started on the new shell and got the old domes, stack, light, and light platform off of it. I won't be using the platform and the light will sit on the bracket like it is above. I had to use my Dremel to grind out a hole in ther bracket so the wires will pass through and the light will sit flush on the bracket.
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Slowly, it comes together. The semi-flat black paint still looks pretty shiny.
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I had some ups and downs the past few days.
On the old frame, I got the wires soldered for the headlight. I added a micro-mini 2 prong connector so I could separate the body if I needed to do that again.
I went to put the body on the frame and it was really being a hassle because of so little room under there and the connector and extra wire wasn't letting it go down all the way. With all the pushing, I the plastic piece away from the crosshead guide. I stopped and tried to glue that back. Many tries and I couldn't get it right. The glue was getting built up and making it worse. I'd have to try to scrape glue off and do it again. I was using Locktite liquid super glue. When I would get it to stick, the guides would end being too far part and the crosshead wouldn't stay in place between them. I went back to the boiler to try to force it down and somehow I broke the end of the frame that sticks out that hold the pilot. I glued it back and let it sit for a while.
I got those loupe things so I was checking out the wheels and realized they were really cruddy with all the little hairs and lint stuff that has accumulated over the years. I didn't see that stuff until I put the loupe in my eye. I spent considerable time cleaning all that stuff out.
I figured since I've got the new one, I'll work on it. Since I had trouble with taking the other apart to deal with the headlight issue I would revert back to my original plan.
I would try to ream out a space for the headlight without taking the loco apart. I wiggled the light loose and pulled it up a little. I took a pair of cutters and cut the upper platform so I was able to loosen it and slide it out from under the light. I drilled a small hole in the platform forward of where the wires when down inside. The I used my Dremel to enlarge it bit by bit. I took the cutters and cut away the metal in between and reamed it a little more. It worked and now the light sits down on the metal platform and the wire runs underneath. (It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be or I would have tried that with the old one.) I was happy.
I decided I wanted the wheels and white trim painted black because I didn't care for the white. I used my nut driver from the new set I got and removed the main crank pin bolt (size 2,5). The connecting rod bolts are a different size :-( The set I have has a 2,5 and 3,0. Those bolts are somewhere between 2,5 and 3,0. I'll have to just keep them connected and work around it. I unscrewed the bottom and in the process of trying to pry that off, broke loose the plastic guide that hold the crosshead supports. Argh! That thing again on the new one now. I can't get the plastic plate with the wipers pried off the frame but I have some wiggle room to where I'm able to turn the drivers by pulling it up off the gear and turning it. I'll just have to paint a little and turn the wheels and paint a little and turn the wheels.
With all this hassle, I decided to give up on the old one (because it's seen it's better days anyway) and buy a second new one. The crosshead on the old one won't cooperate with me trying to glue the support piece and I don't know if the super glued frame is going to hold and I still never got the shell all the way down on the frame anyway.
Tomorrow, I'll try to paint the wheels and then put it together then pray that I can get the crosshead support glued back the right way on the new one.
I did some measuring on these bolt sizes.
On the old Mogul, the main crank pin bolt and the connecting rod bolts are 2.5 mm.
On the new Moguls, the main crank pin bolt is 2.5 mm. The connecting rod bolts are 2.8 mm. Why would they do that?
I can not find a 2.8 mm hex nut driver. They make 2.8 mm star nut drivers.
The closest in inches is a 7/64" hex nut driver. That works out to 2.7781 mm. I don't know if that will work.
I got the light, domes, stack, and cab glued on today. I was going to take pics but my camera went down on me. Now, I have to get a new camera. It's been acting up for a few months and now it finally bit the dust. :(
I got my tender fences in the mail yesterday from PSC. I had ordered two sets, one for each tender. They were pretty short so I used the sides from the second set to make it longer. I had to trim the end piece down because it was too wide. I also trimmed the side pieces down a little. I ordered two more sets of fences for the other tender.
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When my repair shop was open I often had to deal with odd size bolts and nuts. I'd find the closest undersize nut driver I could, 7/64" in your case, and 'broach' the hex out with a jewelers file until it fit. Then I'd mark the size on some white 'Bandaid' first aid tape and wrap it around the handle.
Len
That's a thought. It's just that they are so small anyway I think that would be hard to do.
It just sucks that Bachmann would put bolts on there for which there are no commercially available drivers that I have been able to find.
I ordered the 7/64" one. When I got it, I found out it wasn't a nut driver to fit over a bolt but one to fit inside a bolt like cap screws.
I did get the wheels and white trim painted by doing how I mentioned in a previous post.
I've been working on the tender. I was in the hospital with pneumonia from Sunday through Tuesday so I've been taking it easy for a few days.
I got the D&RGW lettering off. I used Qtips and 71% isopropyl alcohol. It took a lot of rubbing. I tried 91% a little but that seemed to take it too deep to bare plastic so I went back to the 71. While the white lettering was gone, there was still a visible shadow of the lettering and logo.
This morn, I took the shell off and painted it semi-flat black. I took an emory board and got the white stripes off the frame so I masked off the wheels and the innards and painted the frame.
I used Rustoleum to paint the tender fence a flat brown.
I got the long matches all painted and stained and cut to 1/2" long.
Once the tender dries over night, I'll number it. I got Woodland Scenics Roman Numbers Gold dry transfers.
I numbered the cab, but the the number looks too small so I'll remove it and try to fit a bigger one on it. It's hard because the side is divided into four panels and doesn't leave much room for numbers.
I have questions about the Mogul. I'm curious as to how the fireman gets down to the tender. Does he climb down a ladder? Does he jump? If so, how does he get back up? How does the engineer get in position? Climb a ladder?
I wanted to leave one door of the cab open but there is such a big drop off.
I Googled "Mogul" images and can find any of the back of one without the tender blocking the view.
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Little by little. I have to do some on the cab yet. I had numbered the wrong panel so I got the number off and brushed over it. I should have sprayed. It's not glued down yet, nor or the figures or stack glued yet. Once I get the cab done and glued, I'll add the whistle.
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I needed to make a lens for the headlight and I had to figure out a way to prop it up. This worked out ok.
I tried putting clear silicone sealer in there first. I tried it on a piece of cardboard and it dried clear. I then put some in the headlight cavity. I waited for three days and it didn't look like it was clearing up. When I had put in the cardboard, it was clear in a few hours.
I just pulled that stuff out and filled it with Woodland Scenics Water Effects. I'll see if that works.
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Just a couple of little tweaks yet but for the most part it's done.
I did a test run earlier and it pulled my 4 passenger cars up the 4% grade at about 1/3 throttle with just a wee bit of slippage. That was with no extra weight in the cab. I put 3 split shot on each side of the boiler inside so I think that will take care of any slippage I had. I'll see tomorrow after the glue dries on the shot in the cab. I think I'll be in good shape. I might add another freight car or two to the others to see just what the limit is now. Adding more will have the back of it coming down the hill while the front is going up.
The back dated one on the left and the second one (and what it looked before I started) on the right.
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Nice job, Terry. Looking forward to seeing it on your next Christmas train video. I'm in the process of researching/upgrading a DC-only, that I bought when I thought I was only going to run one engine on our Christmas village/train layout (ha!), to DCC. I now have a Bachmann 4-4-0 and a 0-4-2 Porter both DCC. My wife likes to be able to control the Christmas train via WiFi from her tablet, so I ended up converting the layout to DCC. Now she loves it. You know what they say: "Happy Wife, Happy Life"! Again, your back-dated engine looks great. Thanks for taking us through the conversion process. I always learn something new.
Thanks Fred. I was kind of slow coming around to DCC, too, but now I like it. Now that I have this one done, I'll take a break before I start on the second one. I have to work on Dinosaurland for my great grand daughter. I had put that on hold while I worked on this.
I took some more pics.
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Outstanding!!! ;D
Harold
Thank you Harold. I very much appreciate that.
I had a lot frustrating moments throughout this whole project but I'm very pleased with my efforts.
I see that I forgot to put the whistle on.
My first test run of the Mogul pulling the four passenger cars up the grade. :) I didn't have to put any external weights on the pilot. It's all in the stack, domes, and cab and the light is brass so that helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn5uE7DaRHE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn5uE7DaRHE)
Terry, you did a great job with this.
It's a great balance between the original locomotive and the correct details for the late 19th century. It'd look perfect for a layout between the 1880s and WW1.
Thanks. I added some freight cars and caboose to the four passenger cars last night to see what it would do. With three freight and caboose and two freight and caboose it spun a lot. With one box car and caboose added on to the passengers it did ok. I'll probably never run that many cars but now I know my limits.
I'm still not set on a time period. I plan on a point to point with reverse loops on both ends and going up to the top of a hill by three 180 turns with a lot of trestle and some solid ground. I planning on having a waterfall on top back in the corner so I'm thinking about a tourist railroad with the train taking them up to see that.