Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
April 24, 2018, 10:27:29 AM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<
  Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 56
781  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Cleaning equipment on: November 30, 2008, 09:51:49 PM
Ten years in the attic huh…

Whatever your rail type is, it will most likely have oxidized to some extent.

If it’s Nickel Silver, initially clean with a lint free cloth (T-shirt) and the 91% isopropyl alcohol, rubbing each section until the cloth shows no residue. Then burnish it by rubbing the rails with a coin, laid flat, covering both rails at the same time. This polishes the railhead to a shinny surface. Do this on each section of rail and finish by wiping again with the alcohol and cloth. Then assemble.
If your track is either Brass or Steel, use a “Bright Boy”, Crocus cloth, or Emery cloth graded 600 grit or finer. Some manufacturers just grade it course, medium, or fine. Use the “fine” grade. Then burnish as above preferably with either brass on brass or steel on steel. Again a final wipe with the alcohol before assembly.

After ten + years of storage the grease in your loco will most likely have little to no lubricating properties remaining in it. It may have turned into “gum”.
Get an old “pie tin” or suitable container of the “Tupperware” type or equivalent. The cheap disposable “Glad” type is what I use.

Remove the loco shell.
I use an aerosol product made by “CRC” named “QD Contact Cleaner” quick drying formula #02130. It’s safe on all plastics and is generally used as an electronic contact cleaner.
It’s available at any big box or electronics store, Lowes, Home Depot etc.
LPS also makes a similar product.
Use the red straw into the spray nozzle.
Holding the loco frame vertically over the pan, spray heavily from top to bottom, blasting away all old grease and grime around the drive and gears. Spray the axle cups as well.
If exposed, spray the motor armature commutator and the brushes to remove carbon deposits.
What I’m saying here, is basically hose down the entire chassis, and everything in it, heavily, twice.
When it’s clean (drops are clear) stand it (on its wheels) on a piece of cardboard or similar to absorb the residue.
Let it stand 24 hours or until condensate has dried.
Lubricate as per Bob’s recommendation and reattach the shell.

I use “Hob-E-Lube” rather than “Labelle”,  (6 of one, half dozen of the other) there are many to choose from just make sure its plastic compatible. It’s what my LHS carries.

I do not use any type of conductive lube, to me, just another place for crud to collect.
Twelve years in the hobby, never felt like I needed it.
A pencil eraser works well to remove residual carbon from wipers.

To clean the loco wheels I simply cradle the loco upside down and apply power leads to each wheel, and as they are turning, hold a “Q-Tip”, moist with the alcohol, to them until each are clean.

While you’re in the cleaning mode, remove all the wheel sets from your rolling stock and “dig out” (toothpick) all the junk from the truck journals (axel point cups).
The shells are easily cleaned by removing the trucks followed by a short soak (2-3 minutes) in the sink using “Joy” or “Dawn” dish soap or similar and a light scrub with an old toothbrush.
If you can separate the shell from the frame do so.
Rinse well.
When dry (about 24 hrs) put the wheel sets back in the trucks but don’t lubricate them.
Clean the wheel sets using the “Q-Tip” with alcohol, and rotate by hand.

Depending on your curve radius you may, or may not, consider body mount couplers.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

782  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Swapping 4-8-4 Chassis on: November 12, 2008, 09:31:14 PM
Hi Kelly

I no longer own the older one (there were several modifications throughout its production runs) that was in a train set, as I returned it for service several years later. It was indeed replaced with the “new” split frame version.

IIRC the shell is still the same one used since its introduction way back when.

A poster here with the handle “brokemoto” can confirm or refute this and hopefully will chime in.

The difference between the old and new versions is like night and day.

Call Bachmann and explain your situation. They are generally good about such things and may let you keep the old shell.

It’s worth a try.

Good Luck.
783  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N Scale steam on 9 3/4" radius. on: November 12, 2008, 09:11:41 PM
Of the two, the Connie is the better puller out of the box.

The 9.75r for the Light Mountain is really not a problem but combined with the 4% grade it would be.
A paper shim or small piece of tape under the bearing blocks of the traction tired driver will make it a much better performer.
784  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Are Model Trains Made Into This Scale? on: October 26, 2008, 07:58:38 PM
"Google" S Scale

785  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Credit Card Caution on: September 28, 2008, 07:31:19 PM
If you suspect Internet crime contact your local law enforcement, or the FBI.

; )

786  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N scale Disneyland rollercoaster on: September 24, 2008, 04:33:15 PM
Sounds like a real fun build.

MT (Micro-Trains) makes what we call “pizza cutters” which have grossly oversized flanges.
The majority of modelers I know do not like or use them.
You should be able to get them very cheap, probably even free for the asking.

I’m sure I have some somewhere if you want them.

As far as the widest, I don’t know.
I do like Tom’s ideas on how to modify them.

You might try using a hole punch, of the closest diameter, and punch some discs from styrene and glue them to the outside of your wheels thereby effectively placing a flange on both sides of the wheels.
I’m thinking of the discs being about +/- .050 > the wheel diameter.

Just some out loud thinking.

Again, sounds like a great project, look forward to progress pics.
Please do keep us posted.
787  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Backwards Traveling Engine on: September 23, 2008, 07:45:16 PM

It’s polarity.
It matters not which way the shell is mounted.
It matters not which way the chassis is turned on the track.

The only way to reverse the direction of travel is to reverse the polarity to the motor.

In this case, the only way to reverse the polarity was to rotate the motor 180 degrees, not front to back, but rather roll it over.

You could have reversed the chassis on the track and reversed the body too…
They still would not run in the same direction.

 ; )

edit for spell check
788  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N scale Disneyland rollercoaster on: September 23, 2008, 06:47:19 PM
Just so you don’t have to re-invent the wheel…

For the most part he’s been there and done that.
These are his trials and tribulations.

Gravity is what it is.

The laws of Physics do not scale.

Hope it helps.

Good luck!

789  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: N Scale Locos on EZ Track on: September 20, 2008, 09:01:28 AM
The short answer is yes, the Atlas locos run just fine on Bachmann EZ track.

With a quick check with calipers, the EZ track is code 80.
All manufactures “N scale” locomotives will run on all other manufacturers “N gauge” track.
The few exceptions being with older manufacturers’ wheel flange depth not being NMRA compliant.

EZ track is generally OK.

I have seen individual pieces of roadbed attached track with a slight horizontal bow to it from MT, Kato, Like-like, Atlas, and yes, Bachmann too.

This maybe from improper cooling time in the mold during the manufacturing process.
It maybe also an accepted tolerance in the quality control process.
Either way the trains really don’t seem to mind.
Just an easy little bump in the track.

I haven’t seen it with any brand so excessive it will cause uncoupling or derailing.

790  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Wiring Turnouts on: September 19, 2008, 05:21:13 PM
I’m not sure I know what you are asking.   Huh?

If you’re asking if you can connect both “switch boxes” together and plug each into its own respective “turnout” using only one power supply, then the answer is yes.
I believe Bachmann provides this information with their “turnouts”.

If you’re asking if it’s possible to control two “turnouts” with one “switch box”, using one power supply, the answer is also yes, provided you remove the plug from the “box” side of one “turnout” and splice the wires to the other.

Do you need both “turnouts” to switch the same way or opposite ways?
791  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: smoke engines on: September 19, 2008, 04:24:14 PM
Yes, Bob you are right everyone in entitled to their own opinion.
Its part of what makes each of us individual, and “That’s a good thing”.

Sorry, but it’s hard for me to cut anybody any slack when they consistently attempt to force their will on, and belittle, others.

The poster, I directed my reply to, appears to feel it’s his/her duty/obligation to correct others publicly on this site.
I was just giving him/her a dose of  their own medicine.

I know I know, I shouldn’t have, and that by doing so it lowered me to that same level.
My apologies.

Yes, let’s have some fun and go lay some more tracks.

Cease fire in effect  ; )

792  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: smoke engines on: September 17, 2008, 09:54:43 PM
“The smoke and steam from a steam locomotive, especially a wood or coal burner did not produce a lot of pollution.”

Gene are you speculating/dreaming or do you have actual fact to support this?
I am presuming you’re speaking of as delivered?

AFAIK There is no currently operating re-built/re-furbished from the “Glory Days of Steam” locomotives that do not require a special EPA permit to operate. If I’m wrong, which I am known to have been, please enlighten me as to which and when.
None that I am aware of will even pass 1980 Federal EPA standards. Did I miss something?
All, AFAIK, have been granted exceptions strictly specific to place/date/ and time.

“Unlike today's high chimneys, the low smokestack of a steamer didn't allow the smoke to go very far from the track.  It settled on the track and acted as a major fertilizer, making it necessary to tame the wilderness with some regularity.”

This statement is just simply mis-information, or possibly ignorance.
You younger folks may regard this as misspeaking.
We older folks refer to this as a blatant BS.

The early railroads burnt untold tens of thousands of acres of forests and homes due to embers from steam locomotives.
Do a bit of research Gene
Please post the chemical composition of both wood and coal burning waste byproducts as they directly relate to “fertilizer”.
Shame on you, especially posing as a former educator on this site.

“It did get on the family wash if the wash was out to dry at the wrong time, but I'm not sure that is pollution, per se. “
What was the right time to hang the laundry?
Is soot, whatever the source, not pollution?
Again, please post reference regarding chemical composition of said “soot”.

If you have nothing to counter-challenge me on, I would suggest a challenge on my sentence structure or maybe spelling.

Maybe you can save a bit of face.

I’m disappointed with you on this Gene.
793  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N&W Class J on: September 05, 2008, 06:18:39 PM
You’re welcome.
Hope you found the link helpful.

Your presumption is correct in your reply regarding the design of the leading and trailing trucks. It is for this reason B’mann recommends the 19r for that loco.

Like I said the “J” will run on it but she won’t like it.

If you’ve got any more EZ track, experiment with it laid out on the floor.
Use some 19r as I suggested to transition into the 11.25r curves. I think you will be pleasantly surprised as how much better the “J” and all your other lokies, will perform.
See for yourself.

794  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N&W Class J on: September 04, 2008, 09:41:22 PM
Sorry for the delay in posting joe935 but I was called away from home.
Easements are as C855B stated,
Using B’mann EZ track you can remove 1 piece of 11.25r track and substitute 2 pieces of 19r (one on each end of your curve),
Or better yet, remove 2 pieces of 11.25r and replace with 4 pieces of 19r, two on each end, (leading and trailing).

Here’s a link you might find helpful;

795  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N&W Class J on: September 02, 2008, 04:07:45 PM
Hi joe935,

Hmmm…"perform well"…is subjective at best.

Maybe I can shed a bit of light on what I think you are asking?

Q. Will the “J” negotiate an 11.25r EZ track curve without derailing?
A. Yes it will, at slow speed, but it sure doesn’t like it.

Bachmann recommends using the “J” on the 19r. EZ Track.
It runs much smoother, with less wobble and slowing, and doesn’t try to climb the rail.

It’s good practice to always go with the widest radius possible when planning/building your layout.

If 11.25r is the maximum radius your real estate will afford so be it.
Just post a maximum 25 smph speed limit.  Grin
Traverse the curves slowly and you’ll be alright.

Might I suggest a little research on easements?
My experience, and reply, is based on the “New Spectrum J” released about 2-3 years ago, not the older “Standard” version.

Good luck.
Pages: 1 ... 51 52 [53] 54 55 56
Powered by SMF | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!