ONLINE
STORE
"ASK THE BACH MAN"
FORUM
PARTS, SERVICE,
& INFORMATION
CATALOGS AND
BROCHURES

Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
February 17, 2018, 11:32:12 PM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Check out the photo gallery link above or >click here< to see photos of recently announced products!
  Show Posts
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 142
31  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Brass Gears on: December 13, 2017, 11:54:37 PM
Glad to help out Joe, I also forgot to mention the Version 6 Annies are sold out at Bachmann and about gone at Trainworld.  The only version 6 Trainworld has  left is the 91603 and the price is pretty good.  I would hope Bachmann would re run them, but you never know. 

Bill
32  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Brass Gears on: December 13, 2017, 08:22:16 PM
Hi All,

All the "Big Hauler" 4-6-0's have plastic gears Version 2 thru Version 5, none were made with metal gears.  All set locomotives have plastic gears.

These are the only 4-6-0's with the metal gears(Version 6 chassis with new pilot truck). These are the Annie's that were introduced in 2011 with the 916xx product numbers. The Version 6 chassis gear box is the same as the version 5 gearbox, the only difference is the metal gears in the Version 6:

91601   EBT   10   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  East Broad Top            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91602   D&RGW   178   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  Denver & Rio Grande Western            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91603   RGS   25   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  Rio Grande Southern            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91604   SPC   22   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  South Pacific Coast            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91605   D&RG   10   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  Denver & Rio Grande  Ver 6            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91606   ET&WNC   11   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie  Denver & Rio Grande Western            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91607   none   none   2011   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie painted unlettered Black            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91608   D&RGW   168   2016   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie Bumble Bee            Ver 6 Metal Gears
91609   None   None   2016   ~ Loco   4-6-0 Annie painted unlettered Black            Ver 6 Metal Gears



All the early Annie's with the 81xxx series product numbers below have the version 5 chassis with the plastic gears here is the list:

81088   D&RGW   178   2005   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, Denver & Rio Grande Western
81092   PRR   9660   2002   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, Pennsylvania Ver 5
81093   EBT   10   2002   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, East Broad Top Ver 5
81094   RGS   25   2002   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, Rio Grande Southern Ver 5
81095   SPC   21   2000   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10tn aniv, South Pacific Coast Ver 5
81096   WP&Y   10   2000   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, White Pass & Yukon Ver 5
81097   D&RG   12   2000   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, Denver & Rio Grande Ver 5
81098   ET&WNC   12   2000   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, ET&WNC Ver 5
81099   None   None   2000   ~ Loco   4-6-0, 10th aniv, painted unlettered Ver 5

Bottom line is that if you want a 4-6-0 be sure you are getting an Annie in the 916xx product number series.  Do not just assume buying an Annie you will get one with the metal gears.  


33  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Brass Gears on: December 12, 2017, 01:23:59 PM
Hi Joe,

I was told the metal gears are not brass, but I do not know what metal they are.  These are the ones I know about:  latest version 6 Anniversary 4-6-0; latest Spectrum 2-6-0 (not the Indy);The c-19;The latest Standard Line 2-4-2.

Also I am not sure that the axle gears are metal. The info on some of the above state all metal gearbox, not necessarily the axle gears. I have never taken apart my Version 6 Annie to see if the axle gears are also metal. The c-19 info says all the gears are metal.

Personally I have never liked brass gears.  all my early HO scale models with brass gears wore out so bad that the teeth would not mesh anymore.

I can say that my Version 6 Annie and my C-19 have performed flawlessly, and so far I have had no problems with the metal gears.  My 4 Annies with the plastic gears have also performed flawlessly two in service since they came out in 2000.

Hopefully others will respond with better info than mine.

Take care.

Bill







34  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: lost my chuff in my 4-6-0 on: December 12, 2017, 12:19:42 PM
Hi all,

Just learned what the problem was.  It was one of the battery tabs that wasnt makiing full contact with the battery.

This was a new one I hadn't seen reported in the past. 

Thanks to hobo1 for sharing the fix.

Bill
35  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: thanks loco bill on: December 12, 2017, 12:14:38 PM
Thanks for sharing what the problem was.  The battery tabs in the tender is a new one for me!

Bill
36  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: bachmann wire diagrams question on: December 12, 2017, 12:12:22 PM
Hi again,

Unfortunately Bachmann wiring diagrams are not consistent.  The Annie and Connie wiring diagrams are not color coded which means that you must manually trace the wires which can be a pain.  On other locos the wires are color coded such as the shays and some others.  For some there is no wiring diagram at all.

As for the J wire notation, I have no idea what it might might stand for.  It may just be a reference for the folks at the factory.

Bill
37  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: North Pole Express Caboose Lighting Suggestions on: December 11, 2017, 11:50:59 PM
Those axle sets work very well, but only you can decide if $36 is a good deal.  I feel that five warm white defused LEDs should be enough, but if you want it lit up real bright you could add two more.  One trick in coupla lighting is to glue a piece of tin foil to the underside of the roof, and mount the defused LED from below.  Warm White is the only way to go.

Have fun,

Bill
38  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: lost my chuff in my 4-6-0 on: December 11, 2017, 11:40:47 PM
The tenders can be different, older ones did not have the on off volume switch under the tender.   Did you check to be sure the red switch for the sound is on(pushed down).

The voltage for the sound comes from the 9 volt battery under the tender hatch. The chuff sound is activated by the chuff sensor on the rear drive wheel axle of the locomotive. As the rear driver turns the two wipers contact the metal bars on the axle causing the chuff sound.  The sound plug and wire from the locomotive to the tender is nothing more than an on/off switch for each chuff and carries no voltage from the loco to the tender. The locomotive must be moving to create the chuff sound.

A master switch for sound operation is located at the rear of your locomotive in the cab compartment. Depress the master switch (red color) to activate sound operation. A secondary on/off switch (with variable volume control) is located on the underside of your tender (if so equipped). Turn the secondary switch clockwise to activate sound and also to set the volume level.  If your tender does not have the switch, then just be sure the red switch is on(down).  If you have the switch on the bottom of the tender it must be on

you  can test the sound system by making a small jumper wire and jump it on the sound plug intermittently . If the sound system is working you will a chuff sound each time you jump the plug.  If when doing this you get no sound, then the problem is with the tender. Either the battery is no good or the on/off/ volume switch is not on and turned up far enough If you get the chuff sound when doing this test, and when plugging the sound plug back in it still does not give the chuff chuff sound then the problem is either with the chuff sensor or the red on/off switch on the locomotive is not on.  If the red switch is on and still no sound open up the bottom of the loco and check to see if the metal wipers are in good contact with the drum on the rear axle. 

You MUST test the tender first, and if it works then do the tests on the loco, and remember the loco must be moving to get the chuff chuff sound.

Do the troubeshooting step by step and in 99% of the cases it will be something you overlooked!!!  Don't ask me how I know.  If you have a multimeter, it can't hurt to see if the battery strong. 

Hang in there.

Bill
39  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Big Hauler Chassis Replacement on: December 11, 2017, 08:20:48 PM
Hi Grandpab,

I recommend this chassis and it is on sale for $55!  It does have the Walschearts valve gear.  It also has the reliable smooth running Vaesion 5 chassis.  Here is the link:

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_623&products_id=4085

The difference between this and your Blue Comet chassis is that the wheel centers, steam chests and pilot will be black rather than the blue.  You will be able to use the pilot wheels and the pilot(cowcatcher) from your old chassis, but would have to paint the steam chests  and driver centers yourself if desired.  Your old steam chests will not transfer tom the new chassis.

Have fun with the project.

Loco Bill
40  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: lost my chuff in my 4-6-0 on: December 11, 2017, 08:08:15 PM
Hi,

Most common problem is dead or weak (sometimes even new batteries can be weak)9volt battery, next review the instructions for turning the sound on, make sure sound wires are firmly in place on the loco, check red switch at the rear of the loco and make sure the switch under the tender is on and that the volume is turned full up.

Link to instructions:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18832.0.html

Glad you got your chassis installed OK.

Bill


41  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 96240 Christmas Cart overhaul.. little help please on: December 11, 2017, 12:06:23 PM
I have not personally done it but a former member of my club did a few years ago.  Although I am not certain where he got them.  If you are in the USA and have access to a Harbor Freight Store, they have O ring assortments in both sae and metric sizes.  some are in different materials, but I would go with nitrile. 

If one of you solutions works out well, please share it here. 

Also any readers on the forum who have had success please post it.

Bill
42  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Derailment on: December 11, 2017, 11:57:56 AM
Hi Loracat,

Most problems like you describe are track related. First of all it is important that the track is level especially on curves. The play is designed to allow the locomotive to go around the tight curves, and is not likely the problem   If the derailment takes place at the same spot every time, the problem is most likely the track at that point. When one rail is lower than the other especially on curves the front driver will often derail.  Also double check all the track joints to make sure they are tight, especially where the straight tracks join the curved tracks. I would also check the spacing of the wheels on the locomotive to make sure they are all correct. 

Hard to diagnose these problems without being there, so I hope the above is of some help.

Loco Bill
43  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 96240 Christmas Cart overhaul.. little help please on: December 10, 2017, 10:43:50 AM
Hi

Your Christmas Hand Car motor should be Ok and not need replacement. The only suggestion I have on the belt it to go to a store which sells "o rings" and buy sizes from 16mm to 22mm and see if one of those sizes works.

Hopefully others with better ideas will post them!

Loco Bill
44  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: product reference street car on: December 07, 2017, 11:09:52 PM
Greg,

There was no "Christmas"  Peter Witt,  so it is not necessarily correct to assume that Ton is referring to a Peter Witt.  The only closed Christmas version is the Trolley.  Many refer to the Trolleys as street cars here on the Bachmann site, and many of the folks here are not purists as they often are on LSC or LSOL.  It can be hard to detect at times.  Many here also say "cowcatcher" as opposed to the correct term "pilot"

Best,

Bill
45  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 4-6-0 Pilot truck on: December 07, 2017, 04:28:56 PM
Jord,

The shaft is oval, this is done to allow it to swing more freely in the slot on the chassis.  The thin plastic washer is the same size as the metal washer, but has a bigger hole to slide down over the shaft. It does not have the holes like the metal one.  It does have small slots for the wires to fit into.  I usually put some plastic compatible grease on the plastic washer and on the shaft and along the slot.  Then I grease the bottom of the metal washer before installing the screw.  When doing this I have little or no trouble with the truck.  It will be important to make sure the wires are pushed up high enough so as to not foul the movement of the truck in the slot.  You might be able to make the plastic washer, but if the shaft is damaged the only solution is to replace the entire truck.

Sorry I did not respond sooner, but I just returned home and found one to look at.  

Good luck with your repair and have fun!!

Loco Bill
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 142
Powered by SMF | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!