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1  Discussion Boards / Plasticville U.S.A. / Re: MAJOR issues with HO scale plasticville RED BARN KIT ! on: April 06, 2014, 03:57:50 PM
We line the pieces up like they are supposed to go  and they do NOT snap into place OR even stay in place .  We were wanting to know if we are doing something wrong OR is this a mfr defect perhaps ?


X-Acto knives, files, sandpaper and glue for plastic models. Some assembly required.
2  Discussion Boards / N / Re: N Scale DD40AX - Retrofit? on: April 05, 2014, 10:22:09 PM
The thing to remember is that it has 2 engines. The decoder in the new one has the sound of 2 engines starting and running. Unless that decored does that, too, it probably won't sound quite  as good. Since it for the DD40 also I would assume it has it, but I would call them and ask first.

Just sayin'
3  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Bachmann EZ DCC system on: April 05, 2014, 03:55:45 PM
Oops! Never mind on the analog engine not moving. The DCC waveform description helped.
4  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Bachmann EZ DCC system on: April 05, 2014, 03:50:12 PM
Given all this I would think the quick answer is to have a DC transformer and wire your layout as to allow either DC or DCC to power the rails. I have to many DC engines and not all are easily upgradeable though several are and I just ordered my first DCC/sound engine. I ordered the MRC Tech 6 with handheld to run the DCC engine and have MRC Tech DC transformers for everything else. A little careful wiring on the front end I can upgrade at my leisure. I also got a Digitrax catalog and will start researching the different brands and buy a proper system when I'm ready.

I am just curious though how would you have a DC engine not moving if there was power applied to the track. I've heard this a couple of times now that DC engines not moving overheat.

The biggest annoyance so far seems to be reversing loops as the answer seems to be more different between DC and DCC than other challenges.
5  Discussion Boards / N / Re: DD40AX with sound on DC? on: March 26, 2014, 01:43:02 AM
Excellent! Thanks!
6  Discussion Boards / N / Re: DD40AX with sound on DC? on: March 25, 2014, 08:56:42 PM
No one knows?
7  Discussion Boards / N / DD40AX with sound on DC? on: March 25, 2014, 02:40:28 AM
How ell will this work on a DC only system. I am in the process of taking stovk of what I have and trying to decide if I want to DCC or not. But this is a beauty and I'm a little spoiled with my O scale MTH steamers and diesels which work pretty nicely in conventional mode.

I realize you don't have the full range of features and there is no horn/bell buttons like an O gauge transformer to access those features.

What can you actually trigger/hear in DC?

8  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Turnout confusion on: March 25, 2014, 01:23:03 AM
New to the hobby and want to expand layout by adding 2 to 4 turnouts but I am confused because there are three right and three left turnouts to choose from (i.e., right turnouts, product numbers 44860, 44862, 44864).  I was hoping that someone could tell me the difference between the 3 choices?

Thank you

A little more detail for you. Bachmann makes 3 turnout types in left and right.

1) a curved turnout, 11.25 radius curve, the first one they made.
2) #4
3) #6

The #4 and # 6 are more like prototype turnouts in that the diverging rails are straight. The numbers (4 and 6) indicate how many inches the diverging track has to extend before it is 1 inch away from the straight track. With the #4 it is 1 inch away after 4 inches, the #6 1 inch away after 6 inches from the frog which is the point where the track starts to diverge.

The curved turnout is meant to replace an 11.25" curve in a starter layout, it fits exactly.

The larger the number the more gradual the tracks diverge, all of the engines should work fine on the #6 and probably all but the longest will work on #4. The 11.25" turnout has the same weakness as 11.25" curves plenty of engines will not work well with them.

The 11.25" can use a 11.25" curve to turn the track so a to have parallel tracks for a siding,  etc.

The #4 and #6 include a short curve that will do the same thing curve enough to bring the tracks parallel.

Unless you are using 4 axle diesels or smaller and you do not use steamers I would pass on the 11.25. General rule of thumb, #4 for yards/sidings #6 for mainline switches, though you can also use the #6 for yards if you have enough room, they are long.

I have a small pile of the curved turnouts, but I am going to relegate them to a yard setting and arrange them, to avoid the deadly S curves. I have already started purchasing #4 and #6 turnouts, crossovers and just ordered some wyes tonight. I will only use these in the future.

On the bottom of the card is a colored strip which will list the type of turnout, 11.25 curved left or right, #4 left or right, #6 left or right.

One more thing. The older 11.25" curves like the ones I have are power routing. What this means is the power only is allowed to travel in the direction the switch is thrown. Meaning the power has to be on the point (single track) side. This is handy for temporary setups to park an engine. I don't know what they are doing with the new 11.25 but the #4s, #6s, the crossovers and the wye are DCC friendly, which means they do not rout power. Power is present continuously to entire track piece. Well except for the crossover which has built in insulation to avoid shorts.

Is your set DCC or DC?

You'll have more questions. Ask away.
9  Discussion Boards / N / Re: #6 turnout powered frog question on: October 12, 2013, 04:22:51 PM
I think I have answered my own question. The new #6 turnout is neither power routing nor does it have a powered frog.

Ya think that's kinda deceptive having that information on the back about how to power the frog?

10  Discussion Boards / N / #6 turnout powered frog question on: October 07, 2013, 09:36:25 PM
I just picked up a right and a left #6. So far they seem to work nicely and the mechanism seems vastly improved over the older 11.25 turnouts I have.

On the back of the card are directions and a photo for guidance on how to power/unpower the frog. However on both turnouts there is physically nothing there. No mounting point, no screw, no wires.

I'm getting slight hesitation as it goes through the turnout even with a longish steamer with tender pickup. Just curious as to how I can check if the frog is powered (duh I can use a meter) but I'm curious as the difference between the packaging and the actual turnout.
11  Discussion Boards / N / NonOperating Couplers for the Old Timers - Freight and passenger on: September 25, 2013, 02:23:16 PM
I doubt I'll spend any time making up and breaking these trains but I'd like to get them closer coupled and a little better looking. Also the 4-4-0 tender coupler.

EZ Mate shorts OK?

12  Discussion Boards / N / Re: 4-4-0 acting odd on: September 25, 2013, 02:19:54 PM
I'd already cleaned everything, the wheels were turning fine it just wasn't moving. A closer examination (under high magnification) of the traction tires revealed issues. I pulled them off, it's possible they had shrunk to the point where they no longer were in contact with the track. I replaced the traction tires last night, going to try and reassemble it tonite. If it runs as good as the 1st does now, I'll be happy.
13  Discussion Boards / N / Re: Traction tres mounting HELP on: September 25, 2013, 02:15:11 PM
Got it!

Took a 5/16th dowel, cut it down to about 1.25". put one end in a pencil sharpener until I had a cone shape (you don't want the end pointy!)

Slip the tire over the narrowed end and gently work it up. When it's all the way up move it down about .25" from the end. Line up the end of the dowel with the wheel. Put the whole thing in a Panavise and close it up keeping the dowel aligned with the driver. It isn't perfect, but close enough. Slip the tire down the rest of the way. Out of 4 1 slipped on with almost no problems, the other 3 needed tobe coaxed. I have a watch repair kit with a tiny little pin punch which I used to get under the tire and then just popped it onto the wheel.

Cool stuff. thanks
14  Discussion Boards / N / New EZ track switches on: September 24, 2013, 03:11:54 PM
Since I have a fairly large quantity of EZ track (acquired both free and at very good discounts) and don't think I'll have a more permanent N layout anytime in the near future, I'm going to tough it out despite some issues.

I have a  stack of the older switches some of which work better than others that I intend to more carefully troubleshoot. In the meantime the new(er) #6 and #4 switches, is there enough experience that they are better, worse, or the same as the original 12.5" radius turnouts?

Presumably power routing like the older ones?

Main issues I experienced were incomplete throws, engines picking the points, power (not) routing. Having stepped away from it for two years, I think I've gained a little perspective, not all were new when I bought (or was given) them but still, knowing these were for beginners you'd think they'd be more robust.

Presuming not all will survive my retesting and will need replacing. Anyway the smaller diverging angle looks like it might be easier for longer locos and cars to pass though them.

So anyone use them yet or the #6 crossovers? What has been your experience?

15  Discussion Boards / N / Traction tres mounting HELP on: September 24, 2013, 02:50:08 PM
Wow do I have big fingers! Trying to change traction tires on a 4-4-0. The old ones come off easily enough. I have a box of tires from Calumet (box is at home, don't remember full name) package says specifically that they will fit this particular model.

I have a dowel that I tapered on one end to expand the tire as I pushed up the cone and then slide ti down towards the wheel pressed against the full diameter end of the dowel. So far no joy.

Anyone got a trick for this that doesn't involve large quantites of bourbon?

Oops! had another idea while visualizing to explain it. Well, any of your ideas may help soooo...
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