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16  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 4-6-0 start on: February 07, 2017, 01:57:58 AM
That's funny you mention that. (cutting out the rear of the cab)
I'm in the middle of kit bashing an old 4-6-0 I got on ebay for $41.00, shipping included. I just finished cutting out the back of the cab. This loco was #177 Denver & Rio Grand Western with the yellow and black paint job. I cut the rear sides between the two narrow windows all the way up to the bottom arch molding. I used a retractable box cutter with a new blade. I clamped a short 2x4 to a work bench and supported the inside of the cab with it while I slowly scribe with the point of the box cutter over and over until I was able to remove the rear of the cab. Now there's just one narrow window on both sides of the rear of the cab.

One thing to note, before you start cutting, is that you have to remove the windows and they are glued in and are brittle. I removed mine by carefully prying down the sides between the cab and window assembly. Go slow and carefully. I then cut the two inner windows from that assembly to match the cab. I reinstalled the window glazing by just sliding it back into place, no glue needed, it is a tight fit.

I also removed the boiler back head by sliding it up and off. I was really surprised how a little flat red, white and brass paint made the details pop on the back head.   
I'm now in the process of mounting an old version 5 chassis, that I had left over from an Annie chassis swap out. Ill be installing an LED head and back light, Revolution controller and battery power.     

Besides running trains, it's also fun customizing them!

Have fun.

17  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 4-6-0 start on: January 29, 2017, 12:28:00 AM
I would not use red Locktite!! maybe just a small spot of blue. You might need to remove that screw again. Red is very hard to to loosen without heat.

The washers I use are just slightly larger in diameter then the screw head. they are brass, but that shouldn't matter what they are made of, you just want the  washer under the head of the screw to push down harder on the plastic bushing that separates the axle from the wheel.
The only reason I use the small brass washers is because I have them and the other reason is because I have converted all my locomotives to battery power and I am not concerned about track power shorts.
You could find some washers on McMaster-Carr's website.

They have all types of materials and sizes. For track power, I would suggest some type of plastic or Nylon. look around.

I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!!


18  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: 4-6-0 start on: January 27, 2017, 10:30:40 PM
Hi Dr Who?
Every new chassis I had was tight when I received it but after many hours of use, the wheels seem to loosen from the axles.

The way I remove the plastic inserts from the metal wheels is by pressing or even lightly tapping, with a small punch, the back side of of the plastic insert where the counter weight is until it starts to separate and then gently prying, again from the back side, around the wheel as it separates.

The way I tighten the wheels, after removing the inserts, is to remove the screw holding the wheel to to axle and place a small washer on the screw and reinstall it. It seems the plastic insulator between the wheel and axle deforms and you can't tighten the screw enough to keep the wheel tight to the axle. Be careful if you use a metallic washer! You don't want the metal wheel to make contact to the axle through the screw! If you're running track power you'll have a direct short, and nothing will run if that happens Embarrassed

I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!

19  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Tender pcb g 460 on: January 07, 2017, 07:39:58 PM

Looking at the rear of the loco there is a connector to the left of the switch. this connector is connected to the switch and to the "chuff" actuator located at the front driver axle. the switch closes or opens the chuff circuit for chuff sound or no chuff sound.

The connector on the right side of the switch has two wires that are connected to the motor. Because the rear light is an LED it is a diode (light emitting diode) and will only light when the d.c. voltage is flowing in the correct direction. reverse the voltage and the LED wont light up. It's a simple way to make the rear light illuminate when the loco is moving backwards and not illuminate when it's going forwards.

You can use your original tender as before. just make sure you plug the chuff connector, from the tender, to the connector on the left side of the switch.

If you want to install the rear light, here is a link for the LED and resistor.

You'll have to call Bachmann Service an see if they have just the plug.
Mount the LED in the housing (you'll have to do some drilling and be creative) solder one side of the resistor to one lead of the LED and the other lead of the resistor to one wire on the plug. solder the other lead from the LED to the other wire on the plug and try it in reverse. if it doesn't light, but does light in forward, swap the wires on the plug. you have a fifty/fifty chance on getting it right the first time.
I hope this helps.

20  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Tender pcb g 460 on: January 07, 2017, 02:00:17 PM

I think the other plug is for the rear light on the Annie's.
You would have to mount an LED in the rear light housing, with a resistor, and wire it to the other, second, plug on the Annie chassis.
Otherwise everything should work the same as before the chassis swap.

21  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Gen 2 climax dcc factory sound!ANY SUGGESTIONS! ! on: January 02, 2017, 04:07:15 PM
You might try contacting Tony.

He's down under also.


22  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: New Anniversary Chassis Issue on: November 24, 2016, 12:06:49 AM
Well said Bill !!!

23  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: New Additions to my Virginia & Truckee Rolling Stock on: September 27, 2016, 11:53:22 PM
Looking good Andrew!
Where did you get the V&T letters and numbers?

24  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Spectrum three truck Shay on: April 16, 2016, 12:50:11 PM
Have you tried looking in the "Parts, Service & Information" section of this web site?
Under "Product Reference" I found this link.

Hope this helps.

25  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Modifications to Big Hauler train set track on: February 02, 2016, 09:20:09 PM

I understand the idea of recycling and using all your resources to the max, but since your track isn't in your constant possession, I would be fearful of someone plugging your track directly into a 110 volt plug.

 "there is yet madness to it."

26  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Loco Bill's new indoor layout construction. on: January 31, 2016, 03:04:55 PM
Looks great Bill!
Your fortunate to have room inside to build.

Almost all of my rolling stock and locomotives are Big Haulers and I have been building Colorado Model Structures ( which holdup very nicely outdoors, year round, for a couple years now). I have been using 1/24 scale metal die cast vehicles, but they look a little to small close to the locomotives. I wish Bachmann would come out with a line of 1:22.5 or 1:20.3, early 20th century vehicles, that would go with their large scale trains.
I think that's a niche that needs to filled and many molders would love to have them. 

Once again, looking Good!

27  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: No Longer A Dummy! on: January 29, 2016, 09:05:22 PM
looking good!

28  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: No Longer A Dummy! on: January 20, 2016, 09:11:36 PM
Hi RkyGriz,

I think you could remove the wheels from the "dummy" drive axle and put them on the Big Hauler motor drive axle. (remove the rod screws, unscrew counterclockwise, slide the rods off, from the rear of the wheel push out the plastic center spokes and counterweight insert, behind that you'll find the Philips head screw that holds the wheel on the axle. Reassemble in reverse.) Then swap the front two drivers complete into the Big Hauler chassis. I'm not completely sure about the steam chest assy. but I think that it would fit. the only problems I've heard of is the air tanks might hit the top of the steam chest.
The tanks on my V&T #25 fit perfectly when I installed an Anny. chassis under it, but I noticed the tanks on my Southern #8254 were a little further forward and would have to be mover rearward to clear the larger Anny. steam chests.   

Hope this helps, have fun!!

29  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: No Longer A Dummy! on: January 19, 2016, 09:45:04 PM
Good Job RkyGriz!

If your feeling ambitious, you could order a complete motor assembly for $60.00 and put it in your "dummy" chassis.

I know your "dummy" didn't come with any electrical parts, But, (now comes the ambitious part) you could use a couple thin strips of copper or brass for the drive wheel electrical pickups and a couple wires soldered to the Pilot wheels assembly.
Or, I just found this...

Just look how your other chassis are wired. Note: If you double check all your wiring and for correct rotation, before final assembly, then you won't need a polarity switch behind the smoke box cover.
Really, If you changed the chassis, you could go a few steps further and replace the motor/wheel assembly.

This way for about 75 bucks you'd have another engine.

This is the kind of stuff I enjoy about this hobby Grin

If someone originally put it together, SO CAN YOU!

30  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Track lubricant? on: October 11, 2015, 01:11:33 PM
Hi Cris,
I started out playing with trains about 30 years ago.
I built an indoor HO scale RR with 2 mainlines, sidings, a switching yard, tunnels, ect. When the track was clean, it was fun, when not it wasn't. I just got tired of all the reaching and stretching and trying not to make more work for my self while cleaning and polishing the track.
When I decided to to build my outdoor RR, I decided it would be trouble free. So after much research, I decided to go with battery power and remote control.

I just looked online at some higher amp transformers/track controllers and was amazed at their cost.
I have 2 big Hauler 4-6-0s and a  2-4-2 Lyn. that I have converted over to battery power. To convert the first one to battery power was about equal to the cost of a high end power supply. After that, it's just buying another battery and receiver for the other locos.
I'm running 14.8v battery packs from All-Battery and Crest Electronics Train Engineer.
You said your hubby was a mechanic so he must be mechanically inclined. With all the info. on the web and this site (look up Loco Bills threads on battery building and remote control), he should have no problem converting your engine over to battery.

I run my locos for at least 3 hours strait on batteries and there is no jerking or stalling or slowing anywhere on the tracks. I never have to clean the track except when debris fall on it or plants grow over it.

Speaking of track. Another money saver is aluminum track. It costs a lot less then brass or stainless. Did I mention I never have to clean it Cheesy

One other benefit with battery power is there is no need for special track wiring for turnouts, loops or whys.

I truly enjoy running one train nonstop, on the mainline, and switching cars with another. Or, pulling one train into a siding while pulling another train out.

When I built my garden RR, I decided I wanted to enjoy it. Half of my fun is building and improving it, the other half is running it. There is no third half for track cleaning.  Roll Eyes

This is just my opinion and there are many others out there. All I know is that I'm very happy that I took this rout.

Garden railroading should be fun and relaxing and you should only have to work hard at it when you want to.

Enjoy your garden and railroad!

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