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196  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: After Market Smoke Unit Preferences on: April 18, 2015, 10:54:08 PM
I could install a switch in the front of the boiler to turn it on and off. I would just have to figure out how to add power pickups to the dummy so the unit would be track powered . I really don't think that trying to power the smoke unit with batteries would be a great idea,but I decided to throw it out there and see what others might think of the idea. I have been using the Bachmann smoke fluid indoors without a problem. It  dissipates quickly and doesn't seem to hang in the air and I don't seem to detect too much of a smell coming from the fluid.. I have asthma, and it doesn't bother me. The only thing that I don't really like about the Bachmann smoke fluid is that it spatters all over the top of the locomotives and I have to clean them after most uses. What would be the best way to route track power to the smoke unit and headlight?  Thanks Chuck!
197  Discussion Boards / Large / LED Lighting Color for Jackson Sharp Passenger Cars on: April 18, 2015, 09:59:40 PM
Hi, again! I have installed LED lights on 4 of my passenger cars. The lights give a bright white color, which is too bright and unrealistic looking. They are powered by the track. I have a couple of questions . First, I was wondering what color LED lights give off the most realistic look. Secondly, they only light when the train is going forward. How is this problem solved? Should I convert them back to battery or is there something I can wire into the cars to fix this? Another thing, could I paint these white lights with a transparent paint to correct the color? Thanks guys!
198  Discussion Boards / Large / After Market Smoke Unit Preferences on: April 18, 2015, 09:52:07 PM
I bought an Anniversary Edition Dummy 4-6-0 on Ebay a couple of months ago. Recently, I converted the useless front coupler to a working coupler for doubleheading purposes. This loco has no guts-it's just a shell. I've been considering purchasing a new, working chassis for it, but I'm probably going to leave it as-is for now. I was thinking that it would be cool to add a working headlight and smoke unit,either powering them via battery or track power. I'm considering purchasing another Seuthe #7 smoke generator for it, but I was wondering what your thoughts on the subject might be. Also, would a 9 volt battery be enough to power the smoke unit and the headlight, or would it be better to buy something with a higher voltage since the Seuthe #7 is rated for 11-16 volts. Suggestions?
199  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Installing metal passenger car rails - need help on: April 18, 2015, 04:39:07 PM
I have 8 of the J.S. cars (4 Denver&Rio Grande and 4 Virginia & Truckee) and have been tempted for the last couple of years to up grade them with the metal railings. That gets rather expensive.For me, the biggest drawback of the metal railings is that if they somehow get bent then they'll likely look bad when you try to bend them back. The plastic railings may break more easily, but they're cheaper and more easily replaced. I've recently gone and used hot glue on the undersides to make the railings stand up better on my J.S. cars. It seems to be working and the hot glue can be removed easily if I should decide to upgrade to metal.
I was thinking that the epoxy would be more of a universal type of adhesive. The cow catcher was broken off of my Hartland G Scale 4-4-0 when I bought it off of Ebay. I wound up having to send in the entire steam chest assembly as one of the rods on the steam chest broke during a high speed test( these Hartland locos are fast! Way faster that these Bachmanns! So are the Lionel G scale locos I own. They are smaller and somewhat lighter so they will not pull large strings of cars like the bigger, heavier Bachmann 4-6-0 locos will. ) and it wasn't a repair that you could do at home. I contacted Phil Jensen, designer of the Hartland (and Kalamazoo)4-4-0 locomotive, as he also still works for Hartland Locomotive Works as a repair tech. He had me return the part to him and did a fine job replacing the broken rod. He also re-attached the the cow catcher to the steam chest assembly,but it actually fell off right after I received it! I'm not sure which type of glue he used, but it obviously didn't work. I went out and bought the Gorilla Glue Epoxy and used it to repair the cow catcher. The repair turned out to be very strong and I believe that it's going to prove to be permanent. That's why I suggested that you try using it on your railings. I'm familiar with cyanoacrylate types of glue. They dry quickly and form a strong bond on most materials. Plastic doesn't seem to be one of them. I tried to reattach the cow catcher to my 4-4-0 several times with a cyanoacrylate-type glue , but the bond was weak and it always came off. The Gorilla glue was my answer to that pesky problem. Please let us know if you find a more suitable glue for attaching the railings. Good luck and have fun my friend! Andrew
200  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Installing metal passenger car rails - need help on: April 18, 2015, 01:24:30 PM
I've been thinking about upgrading my passenger cars to the metal railings as well. I noticed from the pics of the railings that they would have to be glued in and my thought was to either try some hot glue or an epoxy such as Gorilla Glue Epoxy. I'd try the epoxy first, since the hot glue can get messy and sometimes doesn't stick to metal very well.  Hope this helps! Andrew
Oh, by the way, have you noticed how much Al is trying to get for the dummies on Ebay now? I paid $31.50 + shipping for mine. He's now asking $69.95 + $16.97 shipping. Wow! $87.92 total for a "dummy". I found a 10th Anniversary Edition Denver & Rio Grande #12(version 5)  in brand new condition on Craigslist and it only cost me $75.00 for a complete, working locomotive and tender. I think that Al wants too much money for what he's selling and what you get for that $87.92!
201  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Royal Blue Line on: April 13, 2015, 07:06:01 PM
You could also buy an Anniversary chassis. I did this with my #25 from the Virginia Truckee Prospector set and I had no problem with everything mating up correctly. Try to judge from the pics if the attachment points match up. That's how I did it and it runs perfectly. You can buy an Anniversary chassis for only $44.00 (plus $17.52 shipping) on sale right now by using the wake up promotion that currently ends on April 30th. Good luck and have fun. Check out this video to give you an idea of how many cars the Anniversary Edition will pull versus the original, standard locomotives.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joQoRoRHaXs
202  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Repainting Pilot Wheels on: April 12, 2015, 05:28:05 PM
Thanks for your reply,jviss.I went to the local Wally World and found that exact paint, but after talking to my wife and a lady in the cosmetics dept.,I decided to try the nail polish since it dries hard. I'll see how it works, and then give the paint a try if it doesn't. Thank you for the comments on my handiwork and the Inyo's history. I love steam locomotives and rail road history, I find it hard not to get excited over her. She's really a beauty! Here's a link to a youtube  video  taken at Steam Up last year: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_5TC2h034w Enjoy!
203  Discussion Boards / Large / Repainting Pilot Wheels on: April 12, 2015, 12:34:30 AM
Hey guys. I have noticed that the paint(white in this case) has a tendency to wear off rather quickly on Anniversary Edition 4-6-0 pilot wheels. I was thinking of trying to repaint them with some white fingernail polish, as it's very durable. Is this a good idea or is there something better to repaint these with?
On another topic, please check out my Anniversary Edition double heading with the dummy  Anniversary Edition locomotive I bought on Ebay. I went and added a real wood load to the tender of the powered  loco. Please take a look and let me know how you think this looks. It's made out of nearly 300 1 1/8 inch wood sticks that were hand glued on one by one over a styrofoam foundation to simulate a full wood load. I based it on a real 1876 wood burner know as the Inyo, a 4-4-0 locomotive used on the Virginia & Truckee Rail Road between Virginia City, Carson City, and Reno, Nevada from 1876 to 1937 when it was sold to Paramount Pictures Corporation and became a movie, and latter, a TV star. Its'  starring roles included: Red River in 1948 with John Wayne and Montgomery Clift, The Great Locomotive Chase in 1956 with Fess Parker, and The Wild, Wild, West Starring Robert Conrad and Ross Martin. Today, it's at the Nevada State Rail Road Museum in Carson City, Nevada. It has been fully restored and is fully functional. It is ususlly steamed-up once or twice a year( Mostly during Steam-Up which is an annual event held at the museum during the 4th of July Weekend. I am a frequent visitor there as I live in Reno, and I never get tired of visiting with the Inyo and the rest of the equipment that's on display there. Anyway, here is the link to the youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK2KnD5FxKg
 Thanks guys! I hope I haven't bored you with my little history of the Inyo!
Andrew
204  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Best smoke fluid? on: April 05, 2015, 01:43:48 PM
Thanks for the replies. I've been thinking about buying a bottle of either LGB or Seuthe smoke fluid. I'll also be sure to check out the Crest. I'm not sure about the Mega Steam as, like you already mentioned,  there is a strong odor associated with it and it is a petroleum-based product that could be bad for your health. It's good to know that there are smoke fluids that don't make a mess out of your loco which is indeed a large problem with the Bachmann smoke fluid.
Adding diodes or resistors with a Hartland  Locomotive will not work as Hartland uses a self-contained motor block. The motor block contains the motor and 2 geared drive axles plus 4 power contacts similar to those found on LGB products. There are no electronics in these locomotives. They are very simple and easy to tear apart and work on. Plus, the Seuthe unit was putting out big chuffs of smoke as compared to the Bachmann units. It even blew a smoke ring, which I think is cool!
I just think that the Bachmann smoke fluid may not be as good as other brands and I don't want to spend a lot of money trying to find something better. Even in the Anniversary Edition locomotives you kind of have to look hard to see the smoke coming from them as it not only pops and makes a mess of your loco, but the smoke dissipates very quickly- which can be both good and bad.
205  Discussion Boards / Large / Best smoke fluid? on: April 05, 2015, 05:09:17 AM
Hi. I am a big fan of the Anniversary Edition 4-6-0 G Scale Locomotives. I currently own 4 of them. I also own 2 Lionel 0-6-0 locos and a Lionel 0-4-0 loco ( the Lionel G Scale locos do not smoke), a USA Trains caboose with a factory installed smoke unit( I believe that it may be a Seuthe) , and a Hartland Locomotive Works 4-4-0 that I bought on Ebay about 6 months ago, which I really like.  It has a lot of power and pulls well for it's size. I installed a Seuthe No.7E steam generator in it yesterday afternoon. I hooked it up to the headlight leads for power and also installed a slide switch to turn it on and off. It seems to work pretty well. I've been burning Bachmann Smoke Fluid in all of my smoke units and it seems to put out a decent amount of smoke. I'm wondering if there are other smoke fluids that make greater amounts of smoke and what you guys would recommend  to get the most smoke for my buck and which one is compatible with both the Bachmann smoke units and the Seuthe smoke units. Thanks guys!
206  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: What coupler do I need to buy for the front of an Anniversary 4-6-0 ? on: March 05, 2015, 08:08:50 PM
Thank you for your reply Loco Bill. I've ordered the part from Bachmann and have already started the conversion work. It should be ready to go as soon as the part arrives. Did you cut off the part that normally mounts by sliding into the mount on the truck and acts like a spring ? If so, then how is tension maintained to keep the coupler from disconnecting during operation with other trains?
207  Discussion Boards / Large / What coupler do I need to buy for the front of an Anniversary 4-6-0 ? on: February 23, 2015, 06:44:02 AM
Hello everybody. I have an interesting question. I recently bought a store display "dummy" Anniversary Edition 4-6-0 loco(no tender) on Ebay to strip for replacement parts for my other two Anniversary Edition 4-6-0 locos( the cow catcher as two of the stupid, flimsy pins that hold the brake bar on were broken and the bottom of the chassis-don't ask about that as it's a rather embarrassing story about a hot soldering iron and me not paying enough attention to where I placed the bottom of the chassis when I was making a repair to the chassis wiring!)  I stripped off the parts I needed and interchanged them with the other locos. The dummy still looks great even with the broken parts on it and , since it rolls easily, I want to convert the front dummy coupler to a functional coupler so I can double head the dummy with my other locos. The problem is that once I modified one of my spare couplers to fit in the pocket where the dummy coupler was, I found that the  coupler was mounted much too high to mate with any other of the other rolling stock that I have. I can only seem to find offset couplers that would have to be mounted on one of my other cars, which would do the trick, but that means I could only use that one car when I wanted to double head one of my trains. I currently have seven working locomotives (8 counting the non-powered dummy) and it would be cool if I could get this to mate with all of the other locos. Any suggestions for a universal coupler mount to solve this issue?Or maybe an offset coupler that hangs down instead of up? Any help would be appreciated!
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