Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
April 23, 2018, 08:36:44 PM
Home Help Search Login Register
News: Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<
  Show Posts
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 293
46  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Unplug Controller? on: December 16, 2017, 11:43:12 AM
you could, and should, plug it into a surge protector. That way, you can flip the on off switch on the surge protector to kill power to the layout. I've done this for years with no problems.
47  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Your childhood Christmas electric train on: December 16, 2017, 11:38:45 AM
In the late 1960s, my dad built a 4x6 n scale layout that we put up every Christmas in the living room. He got me my own locomotive to run on this layout, an Erie FA2 made by Rapido. It had a cast metal body. ran at warp speed, and would pull whatever you put behind it even on the mountain grades of this layout. It was indestrucatable, perfect for a 6 year old's first locomotive. To this day, I am partial to Erie's black and yellow paint.
48  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: More power? on: November 23, 2017, 09:41:26 AM
I will second what JOnathan says. I have several of the 0-6-0 locomotives. They pull well enough, but won't pull much on the upgrade portion  of my layout. My steepest incline is 4%, which limits pulling power to about 1/6 of what it will pull on the level. If you are using the ez track pier set for your incline, the grade is even steeper than 4%. If you want to pull your whole train around the track, you'll have tio make the hills less steep.
49  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: degree of incline on: November 23, 2017, 09:24:12 AM
There is a simple way to set up an incline in real life. Since grade percent is usually calculated on a model railroad as inches of rise over a 100" section, you can reduce the amount of those dimensions.

Thus, each percent of grade would equal 1/4" of rise over a 25" run, a much more manageable distance. If you are building a layout from the ground up, you probably have a 24" carpenter's level. When building your incline, you can measure its steepness by slipping 1/4" pieces of moulding strip under the downhill end until the bead sits level.
50  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: How to wire a layout on: November 23, 2017, 09:10:12 AM
The answer to your question will depend on how you want to control it. Will you be wanting to run more than one train at the same time? What form of control will you use, DC or DCC?

51  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Signal controller on: November 18, 2017, 03:35:07 PM
you only have 1 amp's worth of power output. I'd use a different power supply for any accessories.
52  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Weights for tank cars on: November 18, 2017, 03:33:19 PM
Or, you could carefully disassemble the car itself. The tank fits over a bottom part that looks like a saddle. You could pour the glue and bb mixture into the saddle and let it dry. Or you could do like I did and glue about 5 pennies vertically at each end of the saddle. I had posted photos of how I did this several years back, but I can't seem to find the post.
53  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: HELP! DCC loco gone crazy! on: November 18, 2017, 02:37:40 PM
When a DCC locomotive does this, it is often caused by a dual mode decoder going into DC mode. The decoder thinks it is running on track controlled by an analog power supply, and thus will respond to changes in track voltage. DCC, however, uses a constant voltage on the tracks, at the upper end of what an analog power pack can deliver. Thus the locomotive takes off at full speed.

The good news is that this feature, called analog conversion, can be disabled by reprogramming cv29. The bad news is that cv29 also controls a lot of other things as well, such as normal direction of travel. Figuring out what value to program can be complicated.

There is a conversion table on the digitrax website that lets you enter the features you want, then calculates the value to program into cv29. Hope this helps.....

54  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 12, 2017, 03:54:25 PM
it's a mystery to me as well. According to anyrail it shouldn't work, even accounting for the wiggle room. That is a huge discrepancy.
55  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 12, 2017, 01:59:52 PM
ANyrail is a cad program. It is unfailingly exact, and does not account for the wiggle room between track sections we encounter in the real world. The problem you've encountered is something I've often seen when trying to duplicate published plans with anyrail.

I have no doubt that if you used the ten curves and 4 straights you'd be able to get them to connect.

It is worth noting that the 30degree 18r curves and the 9" straights are standard pieces among several manufacturers. So you can build the same plan in several different cad programs (scarm, anyrail, etc) using several different libraries (EZ track, atlas, power lock) with similar results.
56  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 12, 2017, 04:56:48 AM
No, I don't think there are six straights in the photo. The piers are not under the track joints, just like the OP had stated. If you notice, the seven piers on each side of the figure 8 are spread out over just five track sections, four curves and one straight. Therefore they cannot be under the joints.

What concerns me about the photo, though, is the steepness of the grade. 3.125" rise over 45" run (5 track sections of 9" apiece) is about a 6.8% grade, almost twice the recommended maximum. Spreading the piers to one per section will lower the grade to 4.9%, much better, but still steeper than the 4% recommended maximum. But at least 4.9% is workable, though it would cut your locomotive's pulling power down to about 10% of what it will pull on level track.
57  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 11, 2017, 08:23:18 PM
either that or you could place a 4 1/2 straight on either side of the bridge, which would move the bridge piers to where they can be of most use.
58  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 11, 2017, 07:05:40 PM
believe it or not, replacing the 2 straights with curves does not change the figure 8 pattern much. The only difference is that the upper track crosses the lower at a different angle.
59  Discussion Boards / HO / Re: Help Needed in Wiring Simple HO Train Crossing !! on: November 11, 2017, 04:51:03 PM
Have you tried reversing the direction? LEDs are diodes and will only conduct electricity one way.

BTW, contrary to what guy is telling you, LEDs will work on AC. They are diodes, and will themselves rectify AC to DC. Just don't exceed their capabilities. All diodes have a peak inverse voltage rating (PIV) that must not be exceeded.
60  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: E-Z Track Over-Under Figure 8 Track Pack - HO Scale on: November 11, 2017, 04:34:45 PM
you have a couple of options here. The setup you describe is going to have the track joint right over top of the other track. You are doing nothing wrong.

Your first option is to find some way to support that track joint. You can try using a thin piece of wood or metal under the track for support. I'd try 1/8 inch plain moulding strips, available at lowes or home depot. You should be able to glue or otherwise fasten these to the bottom of your track if they're wide enough. But if the support structure is too thick it will interfere with the clearance over the track below, and some of your cars might not fit.

Another option would be to buy a bridge to slip under the upper track between the bridge piers.

The third and fourth options involve tweaking your track plan.

option three is to replace one of the 9" straights with two 4 1/2" ones, placed either side of the remaining 9" straight on the upper track. By splitting the difference, you can ensure that your track joints will be well away from the lower track.

Option 4 is to replace two straights with two 18" curves. Instead of having 1en curves on each side, with paired straights in the middle, you'll have eleven 18" curves on each side, with a single straight on each level connecting the curves.
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 293
Powered by SMF | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!