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1  Discussion Boards / General Discussion / Re: Smoke Unit on: December 26, 2016, 09:55:31 AM
Merry Christmas Nightwing,
            671 here. I run WbyB O Guage Steam locos. Here is what I have done to prolong their smoke units life and performance.

1.   I installed an On/Off switch for the smoke unit. Very simple install. Just interrupt ( Cut ) one of the wires supplying power directly to the smoke unit. Splice two  wires to the now open leads ( one on each ). Run those wires to the loco's cab, install to a micro slide switch. Epoxy the switch to the inside of the cab. Voila! A kill switch for the smoker. Turn smoker off when not in use.

2.   More consistent smoke output. The need to lower supply track voltage to the electrical motor. This will allow you to run at a higher supply voltage ( track voltage ). Higher track voltage will supply the smoker unit power supply module with enough voltage to allow for it to produce it's maximum design output voltage ( approx. 7-8 volts ).
      To achieve this I installed rectifier diodes in series to both sides of the motor ( brush ) wires. Four on each side reduces motor supply voltage by close to three volts motor voltage. You can use a bridge rectifier and some single diodes to save space. Thus your loco at 10 volt track voltage runs at a speed of 7 volt original out of the box speed.
      More smoke lower speeds.

      I have done this with all of my locos. They smoke like they are on fire for approx. 15 minute on one fill. My oldest WbyB Steamer has been smoking for well over Five (5) years.
      I have a post from years ago detailing these actual modifications with many details. Look them up. You will be very pleased with the slow speed performance of the loco and smoke output.

                                            "Smokem if you Gottem"
2  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams front boiler cover j class? on: May 01, 2016, 06:02:24 AM
            671 here. There are J Class Boiler fronts now currently available from the parts section of this Website. $10.50 each. WBB just listed them.
            Order it today.

3  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams sd45 headlights on: April 01, 2016, 05:17:56 PM
671 Here,

            Go to the web site...TRAINAIDSA... They sell plug and play LED bulbs that directly fit and work AC or DC for Lionel trains. Remove your existing bulb and replace with their LED. Bright lighting is now yours.

                                        671..." Get a round of track for the boys." A quote from an old Lionel promotional flick.
4  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel on: March 23, 2016, 04:34:48 PM
671 Here,

           Use the "Search" box from the above choices. Type in "Series wiring mod" By Joe Satnik.

His post should come up. It is very detailed on the how to change the WBB Dual motor units from parallel to series wiring.
You will be very pleased with the outcome.

                                              671 ... WHOOOO! WHOOOO!
5  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: F3-A Diesel on: December 05, 2015, 01:59:51 PM
Hi bwalm,
             671 here.

             Yes they did make a B unit for that F3 A-A Baltimore set. I too purchased my A-A plus B unit from TRAINLAND about two years ago. Great sale price........ < $ 200.00 for all three units A-B-A.

             The horn challenge is probably that the loco is so efficient, that you are running it at a low track voltage. I.e. 6-8 volts or less. The Horn/Bell activation at the lower track voltage is marginal.

             One very simple remedy is to change the motor wiring, within the power unit, from a parallel wiring to a series wiring. This allows you to increase track voltage without creating an over-speed condition of the loco. ( More scale like speed and brighter lighting plus a more positive horn activation )

             Joe Satnik, on this website, has the detailed wiring change. Reach out to him for help.

             I have used this parallel to series set-up on all of my dual motored Williams locos with excellent results. The loco is no longer super sensitive to small throttle advancements, brighter lighting within the cab, and instant horn response. I am using post war ZW 275 watt transformer.

             Hi Joe, could you please help this fellow?

              Don't forget, when you run your Steamers..."Smokem if you Gottem!"

                                             Merry Christmas...671
6  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Williams PRR Tuscan GG! #41794 on: September 06, 2015, 08:47:57 AM
Hi bobbyzx,

             Change the internal motor wiring from parallel to series. This will allow the engine to run at a more controlled lower speed for a given voltage. It will run slower at a higher track voltage setting. This will allow the horn/bell to sound at the higher voltage, yet allow the loco to run at a lower speed.

              I believe that Joe Satnik has a posting on this site for that wiring diagram.

7  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Best smoke fluid? on: April 05, 2015, 11:16:53 AM
Hi RkyGriz,

               671 here. I have tried several smoke fluids for the Bachmann/Seuthe style smoke uint. I find that the Bachmann fluid spits and pops during its' use. The top of the Loco gets fluid on it.

               LGB, Seuthe, Mega Steam fluids do not have the popping tendencies. These fuids do come at a high price and I find Mega Steam to be too strong a smell for the Train Room.

               Crest Smoke fluid ( Trainland $4.99...4 0z. yellow bottle ) Smokes as well as the above mentioned, long lasting, ( >15 minutes per fill ). I like to mix a few drops of Mega Steam into the 4 o.z. bottle for a mild aroma.

                              Give it a try...  :-) ... Happy Easter... 671
8  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Seaboard NW2 Just Out of the Detail Shop on: October 21, 2014, 11:37:07 AM
Hi stationmaster 12

                  I like the way you attached the crew members to the front electric motor. Great idea, first time that I have seen this done.
                  I will borrow this method on some of my locos. Is the black around the motor, paper or some other product?

                  Again nice install !

                                             Keep-em Smoken...671
9  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: powering up a dummy unit on: June 09, 2014, 01:49:49 PM
Hi Boxcar12,

             671 here. Your description of the 'direction' of travel is a little vague.
1. It sounds like this is a F-3 or an Alco style dummy.
2. If you wired the dummy's motors to travel forward at start-up (Headlight/windshield=front) then the units will both start in that direction, thus pulling against eachother.
3. If you run the F style units Tail to trunk, then they will run in the same direction at start-up.
4. If you want  one unit to travel forward and the other backward at start-up, you will need to reverse the wire connections to the motors after the electronic E-unit. This will get one to travel in it's normal forward direction and the other to start in reverse direction during initial start-up.

                       Hope this is clear...671
10  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Reducing Engine Speed to Allow Smoke Unit to work on: May 31, 2014, 01:18:36 PM
Hi Narrowminded,

                 671 here.

The voltage drop across a resister is dependant upon the voltage and the current.

The voltage drop across the diode is always constant .6-.7 voltage drop.

So in conclusion if the loco is not pulling a load, the voltage drop across the resister is quite different than if it were pulling 20-30 cars up an incline.

The diode voltage reduction remains the same no matter how the voltage (throttle) changes or current (load).

The resister setup would 'pull' more power from the transformer than the diode setup for the same results.

Equal load and speed, diode reduction uses less current (watts) with a constant voltage reduction between input and output.

11  Discussion Boards / Large / Re: Reducing Engine Speed to Allow Smoke Unit to work on: May 30, 2014, 02:07:06 PM
Hi chieffan,
            671 here. Joe Satnik's answer is the best way to reduce voltage ( Electrical pressure ) to your motor/motors.
            My scale is 'O'. I have several of the W by B Steam locos. The problem with these locos is that their motors require relatively low voltage to obtain scale like speed.
            Now the challenge is this...The smoke unit needs a track voltage of approximately 9 + volts in order for the smoke unit's voltage regulator to provide the design output voltage of 7.9 volts for the 8 volt Seuth Smoke unit. Where did that voltage difference go? It was lost to the electronics within the loco's electronics.
            Now, a diode helps in controlling the directional flow of the current. But diodes are slightly parasitic. What I mean is that they consume some of the voltage that is flowing through them. They 'steal' about .6 to .7 volts for each diode the current flows through.
            Using this very constant voltage drain, allows us to drop voltage to any circuit within our locos.
            I use the Dalllee bridge rectifier circuit along with two extra diodes. This drops my motor voltage by almost three volts. This allows me to increase track voltage by approx 3 volts to run at the same speed. The smoke circuit now receives almost three more volts. My smoke units smoke like they are on fire, yet my loco runs at a closer to scale speed.
            Thank you, Joe Satnik for the slower speed and tons of smoke.

                               Smok'em if you got'em...671
12  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: fixing a truck for a Millwaukee St. Louis on: March 21, 2014, 08:21:13 AM

            You are quite welcome.

            I hope WestCelt gets his GP7 up and running.

13  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: fixing a truck for a Millwaukee St. Louis on: March 20, 2014, 03:36:31 PM
Hi WestCelt,

         671 here. Your challenge seems to be one of two reasons that the wheel does not stay onto the axle.

1.     The bore hole within the wheel hub is oversized.
2.     The axle shaft was not knurled.

       The wheel stays onto the axle by friction originally. The bore is slightly smaller than the shaft end.
       I would try to replicate this friction using one of two methods.

       Top of my list would be to use either strands of steel from a steel wool pad or strands of fine copper from multi-strand thin gauge wire.

       I would place as many strands as needed through the hole in the wheel. Leave excess strands outside the rear of the wheel. One dot of supperglue to hold their position. Press the wheel onto the axle using my bench vise with paint stirring sticks as a protector between vise jaw and wheel set. Press to correct width, then take a sheetrock knife and cut the excess wire off from behind the wheel. Job complete!

        Second choice would be to squeeze the end of the axle in my bench vise to oblongate it's shape. This would make up for the loose fit.

        If I needed to do this type of repair, I would use the wire style repair. I feel it would have the much sort after results.

                                       Good luck!...671
14  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Fixing a Wheel assembly on: February 01, 2014, 11:18:43 AM
Hi WestCelt,

               The Lionel transformer only sends the whistle overlay D.C. pulse in one direction. If the bell is able to ring and you want the whistle to blow, this what is needed to be done.

               Switch the two feed wires at the transformer posts. This will change the D.C. pulse's direction. This will now allow the whistle to blow when the whistle lever is engaged.

               If you want to be able to blow the whistle or ring the bell without switching wire location all the time, you will need to either DYI whistle bell switch, or purchase a ready made one. Lionel makes one for their newer trains when used with a conventional transformer.

               I believe a web site J&C Studios has a Whistle-Bell switch on their site.

                                             Good luck...671
15  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Fixing a Wheel assembly on: January 30, 2014, 02:04:59 PM
Hi WestCelt,

             671 here. I am assuming that the wheel does not slide easily onto the axle.
Here is my suggestion:
1.  Remove truck assembly from chassis. From my memory this would be the steps needed.
              A.  Remove plastic body shell by removing 4-6 screws holding body to chassis
              B.  Remove electric motor from the truck assembly that needs the wheel. A single Philips head screw from the underside of the truck will release the motor.
              C.  At this point the truck should be free of the chassis unless a wire is attached to it. I.e center roller pickup.
               D.  Once you have freed the truck from the chassis you can now remove the side skirting ( brakes etc ) with the removal of the screw that holds this decorative piece to the truck ( Both sides )
               E.  Take the truck and the missing wheel to your bench vise. You will use the vise to press on the wheel to the axle. Shield with wood ( paint mixing sticks work well ) to prevent the vise from damaging the wheel set. Slowly press the wheel onto the axle keep taking measurements of the decreasing width between the wheel flanges. Once that width is the same as the other wheel width, you are done!
               F    Reassemble, lubricate and grease the gears.

I have used this method to correct wheels that were not pressed to the correct width. It is easy and does a perfect job. Let us know how you make out.

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