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16  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Fixing a Wheel assembly on: January 30, 2014, 02:04:59 PM
Hi WestCelt,

             671 here. I am assuming that the wheel does not slide easily onto the axle.
Here is my suggestion:
1.  Remove truck assembly from chassis. From my memory this would be the steps needed.
              A.  Remove plastic body shell by removing 4-6 screws holding body to chassis
              B.  Remove electric motor from the truck assembly that needs the wheel. A single Philips head screw from the underside of the truck will release the motor.
              C.  At this point the truck should be free of the chassis unless a wire is attached to it. I.e center roller pickup.
               D.  Once you have freed the truck from the chassis you can now remove the side skirting ( brakes etc ) with the removal of the screw that holds this decorative piece to the truck ( Both sides )
               E.  Take the truck and the missing wheel to your bench vise. You will use the vise to press on the wheel to the axle. Shield with wood ( paint mixing sticks work well ) to prevent the vise from damaging the wheel set. Slowly press the wheel onto the axle keep taking measurements of the decreasing width between the wheel flanges. Once that width is the same as the other wheel width, you are done!
               F    Reassemble, lubricate and grease the gears.

I have used this method to correct wheels that were not pressed to the correct width. It is easy and does a perfect job. Let us know how you make out.

17  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Any help for Williams passenger car trucks from 1990's on: January 26, 2014, 04:00:17 PM
Hi cmaffet,

              Have you checked the center roller electrical pick-up? I have found that if you use the wrong oil, they build up a carbon deposit very quickly. The center roller becomes resistant to rolling or locks in one position. This added drag increases the rolling resistance of the car. I have also noticed that the springs on some of the center roller pick-ups are quite stiff. This stiffness makes a great amount of the cars weight roll on the roller itself. This does not allow the truck's wheels to support most of the weight. The rollers should just be an electrical contact, not a center "wheel" for the cars truck system.

              Conductive or synthetic lubricant is a must for the pick-up rollers. Check the spring tension/load. That may be the cause. If the trucks wheels roll freely, it could be the rollers creating the excess drag.

18  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Hudson slows down and stalls on: January 09, 2014, 04:47:53 PM
Hi WKT58,

             You can buy a new motor for your Loco from this website. Just go to the parts section under semi-scale Hudsons. The motor is available from that listing.

             I have a semi-scale 2056 Hudson. I believe it to be 3 years old now. It is a great runner. Smooth running, well balanced weight distribution onto the drive wheels, well behaved on turnouts and X crossings.
             I replaced the original smoke unit with the larger LGB #5 smoke unit by removing the stack adapter from the boiler. I wired in series (2) small rectifier diodes. This lowered the maximum voltage from the constant voltage board from 7.9 volts down to a maximum of 6.5 volts. I also wired an on off switch for the smoke unit. I have this setup for 3 years now. It smokes like it is on fire. I use Crest smoke fluid ( Trainland $4.99 4oz bottle ) it smokes for 15-20 minutes.
              The semi-scale Berkshire uses the same boiler shell. I have one in the Great Northern color scheme. I find it not to be as good as the Semi-Hudson. The balance point is different in relation to the drivers.
               All of my WbyB locos are very good, the semi-scale Hudson is my favorite.

19  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Height Above Railhead of New GP30? on: November 24, 2013, 04:12:55 PM
Hi Seaboard,

                  671 here. I just completed 'Series' wiring of my new WbyB GP 30.

                  Here are my observations & Results...

           1.    This can/will void your warranty.

           2.    On the positive side of this alteration, smoother operation, sensitivity to throttle movement is dampened. Prime Mover Rev up and Rev down is more protypical in relationship to speed and throttle setting. Lighting in passenger cars and caboose is brighter. I am running at a 10 volt to 11 volt power setting. This gives me a very constant scale speed. I dislike the 'Race track' speed.

           3.    I found this alteration to be  positive. I will keep my GP 30 in a series wired mode, even with the threat of voiding it's warranty due to my actions. 

                                                                           NYC GP 30.....671

20  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Golden Memories Scale Hudson 773 on: November 17, 2013, 12:36:45 PM
Hi tstrekfus,

                Read the post "Scale Hudson". You will find a description of how to install a smoke cut off switch.

                I have done this to all of my WbyB Steamers. Easy install, works flawlessly, extends life of smoker.

                                                           "Smok'em if You Got'em"...671
21  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Height Above Railhead of New GP30? on: November 17, 2013, 12:27:04 PM
Hi Seaboard,

                 I have the 2013 catalogue. Page 15 describes the size of the GP 30 as:

       Length 14"
       Height    4"

                 I just measured my WbyB New York Central GP30...Here are the actual measurements:

       Length  14 1/2"coupler to coupler outside of knuckle
       Height     3 7/8"   Rail top to highest point on Loco ( Fans & Exhaust )

    P.S.  I am considering a shutoff switch for the  Prime Mover sound.

            The Loco's sound does not Rev-up at voltage settings < 10 volts. The Loco travels plenty fast at 9 volts with only an 'Idle RPM sound'. I am considering a "Series Wiring" of the two motors. This will increase the track voltage setting, which should activate the Prime Mover into a Rev-Up mode.
            I will post my 'Test' results on this modification when completed.

22  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: October 31, 2013, 04:01:38 PM
Hi wmwalker,

          671 here. Just a 'Heads Up'. If you are looking for a new Iron Pony, check out Trainland/Trainworld. They have three WbyB Scale Hudsons on sale, super pricing!

1.  Great Northern  @ $299.99

2.  Canadian Pacific @ $299.99

3.  Jersey Central    @ $329.99

            How is that Santa Fe Hudson doing? Hope all is well.

           Here is a quote from Dr. Frankenstein's Monster when he was in the blind man's house................................................" Smoke Good! "

                           Happy Halloween...671

23  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Question for the Bach Man on: October 27, 2013, 02:51:22 PM
Hi Bob Banjany,

                 671 here.
                 I have tried several different smoke fluids for the Seuthe type smoke units found within the Williams by Bachmann Steamers.
                 Here are my results/opinions...

1.      The Bachmann fluid has a tendency to 'pop' and 'sputter' spitting excess fluid all over the Loco's boiler top.
2.      LGB fluid works well. No popping or spitting. It is rather expensive and difficult to locate.
3.      Seuthe fluid works as well as LGB fluid, but it is even more expensive than the LGB fluid.
4.      Mega Steam works well, I find the smell too strong for the train room. Cost, 2oz @ Trainland $4.99
5.      My personal best pick is CREST FLUID.
                    A.  It produces as much or more smoke, without spitting or popping, than the other above mentioned products
                    B.  The cost is much lower...4 oz. Bottle at trainland = $ 4.99
                    C.  I mix a few drops of Mega Steam into the Crest fluid for a nice lite aroma.
                    D.  I have gotten 15-20 minutes of smoke run time on one fill-up.

                               I like SMOKING Steamers, and this is what I get with Crest Smoke Fluid.

                                         Keep on smoking...671
24  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Drop in sound boards from soundtraxx for existing williams engines on: July 27, 2013, 01:38:26 PM
Hi Srcjo,

          671 here. I think I have an answer to your question. If your sound system's motor rev sound is controlled strictly by voltage increase and decrease within a given voltage range, the solution is fairly simple.
          In a series circuit with two equal resistors, the voltage drop across these resisters is equal. For example using your voltage numbers the voltage is split between the two motors equally. Each 'SEES' ( consumes) 4 volts. Diagram below:
8 volt source..>>.......www..>......www...>>.. to ground. (www represent motor windings)
                            ^              ^
                          +8v.          +4v
          Tapping your voltage sensor after the first motor but before the second motor will yield a halving of the original input voltage. So the sound sensor which is dependant upon voltage will 'SEE' 1/2 of the voltage being supplied by the electronic E-unit.

                                I hope my crude diagram helps...671
25  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: July 23, 2013, 02:18:21 PM

             How did the smoke shut-off switch work out for you?

26  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Transformer Recommendation on: July 23, 2013, 01:38:02 PM
Tiger trains,

                I run a Christmas holiday display in the lobby of one of the office buildings that I am in charge of. ( 5' X 10' double loop layout ) I have been using the Lionel CW-80 for two years now with success.

27  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: July 18, 2013, 01:59:46 PM
Hi wmwalker,

             A quick tip on the smoker switch.

1.    Solder the wires to the switch first.
2.    Shrink wrap those solder points.
3.    Twist the two wires together to form a braid.
4.    Cut smoke unit's one wire.
5.    Wire in the switch wires to the smoker wires ( cut switch wires to correct length)
6.    Epoxy switch in place (5 minute epoxy) avoid glue into switch mechanism use a
             tiny amount of epoxy, one dot is plenty. Clamp in place until dry.
7.    Hot glue the braided pair of wires to upper interior of boiler.
8.    Reassemble Have Fun

28  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: July 18, 2013, 12:06:15 PM
Hi wmwalker,

                  8 amp is fine. I have been using that same 8 amp bridge along with two additional 6 amp diodes to create electrically a 4 diode circuit in both electrical flow directions. I like the performance of this "4" diode set-up ( approx 3 volt drop ). I have been using it without fail for almost three years of heavy running. I solder the two extra diodes next to each other between the "Table Legs" of the bridge rectifier. It makes a nice small tight package. This ' Package ' fits into the well below the electrical board within the semi-scale Hudson, the J 484, and the Berkshire locomotive. The S2 Turbine does not have this well. I mounted my bridge and diode package on the Port side (left) of the loco. There is just enough room to mount it on it's edge with the 'table legs' facing the electronic 'E' unit board.
                   In the Scale Hudsons I mounted the bridge package within the tender. I tied into the wire harness that goes to the motor for my connections.
                  The Dallee circuit as printed on their website shows the bridge along with a single diode. I have the bridge rectifier with two additional diodes. I have not used any heat sinking for any of my locos. No problems as of yet. A 6 amp diode has enough capacity. I have measured my locos' amp loads, none have exceeded 4.5 amps on my upgrade pulling a long heavy train.
                  I have also installed a small slide switch to interupt the smoker's circuit. This allows me the option of turning off the smoker. This will extend the 'life' of the smoker. Simple setup, cut one wire on the smoker, solder two small wires with shrink tube. Extend this into the engineers cab, epoxy switch to the inside of the cab out of sight and you are all set.

                    "Smok'em if you got'em"...671
29  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: July 17, 2013, 06:58:51 AM

          Yes, I use the Lionel ZW 275 watt postwar transformer. The starting voltage is actually 7+ volts. I have a MTH 1000 transformer which starts at a much lower voltage and allows the locos to 'Creep speeds'. The undesirable results at these low voltages is No Smoke production, poor lighting in caboose and passenger cars, also inconsistent whistle sounds.
           The modifying of the power feed to the electric motor with diode dropping circuit ( Joe Satnik ) (Dallee Diode Motor voltage circuit) creates many positive serendipitous results:
1.    Creeping speeds
2.    Better and more constant smoke production ( I use Crest smoke fluid add a few drops of Mega Steam smoke to the Crest bottle for aroma ). Great smoke no 'spitting'
3.    Consistant whistle sounds
4.    Brighter lighting in all cars and Loco
5.    Smoother starting and stopping ( less stress to drive gears )
6.    Cool motor temperatures ( No ill effects to my semi-scale Hudson for 2 1/2 plus years )

           The higher track voltage needed to run your trains at a desired speed gives you all of these extra benefits. From my own experience, I know that the smoke/headlamp circuit needs approximately 9+ volts input (Track Voltage ) to achieve its' design output of 7.9 volts. Any lower track voltage results in less than optimal voltage output at the voltage limiting circuit of the smoker/headlamp circuit.

                               Heading for the make Smoke...671  
30  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Scale Hudson on: July 15, 2013, 03:01:28 PM
Hi WMWalker,

           671 here. I love steamers. The smoke, the rods and the drive wheels. All that motion and sound is intoxicating.
           My first Williams by Bachmann steamer is the 2056 semi-scale NYC Hudson. I have had it for almost three years now. I power it with a Lionel 275 watt postwar transformer. The loco is so efficient that the Lionel transformer could not be set to a low enough voltage to satisfy my need for a ' Creeping Speed '.
           Joe Satnik had a great voltage reducing idea using diodes to solve this challenge.
           I use his idea by placing 4 diodes at the power feed to the electric motor. ( I use a full bridge rectifier and two diodes to accomplish this. ( See Dallee Motor Voltage Drop ).
           This loco now creeps, smokes super, and allows higher voltage to my passenger car's lighting systems.
           In closing; I now have in my stable two Scale Hudsons, one Semi-scale Hudson,one  S2 Turbine 671, one J 484, and one semi-scale Berkshire. All have been modified with the Joe Satnik diode voltage drop. They all run great.
           If you are looking to 'Steam Up'. Buy one of the S2 Turbines now on sale at Trainland...$174.99. These S2s are so smooth and powerful. Great, Great Runners.
           I love mine, I am sure you will be very pleased. Welcome to the smoking side.

                              Keep on Chuggin'...671

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