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31  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Berkshire Tire Size? on: June 18, 2013, 10:59:23 AM
Hi Joe2343,

            Did you ever get a source for the Berkshire tires?  Williams seems to use traction tires as a banding of the wires around their drive motors. With a little luck, the band around the electrical motor will be the same size needed for your traction tire.
            If you have other Williams, Check them for traction tires.
            The "J" 4-8-4 Steamers may have the same tire size. You may want to inquire about those tires from the parts dept.
            It seems that the parts dept. scavenges parts off of returned to factory units. You may get lucky asking for Berkshire tires and "J" tires.
            When you install the new tires, use Elmer's rubber cement ( Available at stationary stores i.e. Office Depot  ) This will hold the tire to the wheel rim, reduce tire buckling, and extend tire life.
            The rubber cement cleans off easily and never hardens.

                                  Good Luck...671
32  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Powering a dummy E7 on: May 21, 2013, 10:48:02 AM
3rd Rail,

          Thanks for the ' Heads Up '

                                               671
33  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Powering a dummy E7 on: May 19, 2013, 11:46:39 AM
Hi Davidone,

            The Williams EP-5 uses the same power trucks as does your E-7 ( #00243 kit ). Here is a simple and less expensive way to get all the parts you need plus extra parts including a true blast II unit complete.

            Go to the Wholesale Trains web site on line. Currently in there O gauge sale section they have the Pennsylvania EP-5 on sale for # BAC 41905 @ $79.99 or the BAC 41906 @ 81.49.

            You can easily "GUT OUT" these locos for all the parts you need for your E-7 upgrade with spare parts left over.

            If you buy two of the same for $160.00, you could "GUT" the one for the E-7 upgrade and use the parts removed from the E-7 to make a dummy out of the EP-5.

           Buying the loco, at this price, is cheaper than buying the upgrade kit !!!!



            Attention:  Cobrabob...I know you are a Pennsy guy, this may be a good time to add a pony or two to the "stable"

                                  Keep on Chuggin'...671
34  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Problem with new PA1 on: May 17, 2013, 02:07:25 PM
lelandb124,

               I will try to guide you through the steps that I would take if I had a similar problem.
1.   Remove the shell from the chassis of the powered PA1 unit.
2.   View the interior. Are the wires going to both motors allowing free movement of the motors and rotation of the trucks?
3.   Turn the rear weighted flywheel on the motor by hand. Make note of the amount of effort that is needed for this task.
4.   Turn the front motor's flywheel in a similar way. Any different amount of effort noted?
5.   If more effort is needed on the rotation of the front motor than the rear, see step #6
6.   Remove front motor from its' truck. This can be accomplished by turning the chassis upside down and locating a philips head screw directly below the electric motor. Remove this screw, it goes through the truck base directly into the motor. With this screw removed, you can upright the chassis, and with a simple turn on the motor's flywheel, remove the motor.
7.   With the motor separated from the truck, you should be able to rotate the motor's flywheel to check for binding. With the motor off it's mount you can also check for binding in the drive wheels and gears.
8.   I would venture to guess that you may find the binding to be in the  wheels and drive gears rather than in the motor itself.
9.   If no binding is located, reassemble with care  to properly mesh the gearing. Rotate the motor flywheel again by hand. If no binding, than the binding was at the motor to truck mating.

                                                  Good luck ...671
  
35  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Problem with center rail pickups on: May 17, 2013, 06:54:56 AM
Juniata Guy,

              I believe that Lee F. was referring to the pick up assembly, not just the roller.

                                                        671
36  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Problem with center rail pickups on: May 16, 2013, 12:34:28 PM
Lee F.,

       I use magnetic screwdrivers for these small screws. I also use a tuna fish can, as a parts bin, for all of the small parts that I remove from the Loco. This keeps them all in one place with little chance of dropping them onto the floor.

       If you do not have magnetic tools, dip the screw driver tip into some sticky chassis grease or household Vaseline. This will hold the screw to the tip of the driver allowing easy installation with an easy cleanup.

                           Good luck...671
37  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Problem with center rail pickups on: May 15, 2013, 12:25:27 PM
Hi Lionel00,
         671 here. I have several of the "Stream line" Tenders including one from a 671 S2 WbyB turbine.
         The most probable cause of center pick-up binding is Carbonizing of the lubricating oil. This happens due to several contributing factors.
1.   Dust and dirt build-up on the center shaft to roller.
2.   Using the wrong lubricant. Mineral based oils will have a tendency to carbonize. This will cause binding of the roller
3.   Use of a non-conducting lubricant can cause electrical arching between the roller and its' center shaft ( Axle ). This results in extremely high temperatures at these points, resulting in an electrolysis pitting of the mating surfaces. This creates binding by creating a rough pitted surface to surface contact point.

Remedy:  Clean with plastic safe contact cleaner ( Radio Shack Product ).
Go to your local Hobby Shop for the correct lubricant or try 'On-Line' suppliers.

If the grooving is severe, order replacement pick-ups from the Williams parts section @ this site. Replace the pick-ups.

                                       Good luck...671
38  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Canadian Pacific 40209 on: April 01, 2013, 11:21:17 AM
Hi Bob,

      Phillyreading is correct, The sound card and speaker can be found within the tender.
      I have the J 4-8-4 B&O Royal Blue. ( Same Loco as Canadian different paint)The loco appears to share the same chassis as their Berksire Locomotive.
      Open up the tender shell and try adjusting the potentiometer and or bend it into it's original shape.
      I have had a lot of success with correcting faulty Horns and Whistles using this simple repair.

                                Good Luck...671
39  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Canadian Pacific 40209 on: March 31, 2013, 11:17:19 AM
Hi Bob,

        Use the search above. Search for...True Blast II Problem...posted by 671. I think the info will solve your challenge.

                                          671
40  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: First cold weekend, playing in the basement!! on: March 08, 2013, 07:59:00 AM
Hi Cobrabob,

            I know that you like the PRR. Take a look at the 'Wholesale Trains' Website. WbyB EP5 on sale!!!
$81.99 each. I have a EP5 New Haven, good puller/runner. Time to add a new 'Pony' to the stable.
                                               671
41  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: How do I run my E7 AA B&O diesels on a block control track? on: February 20, 2013, 01:53:11 PM
binh bill,
        
            Hi, 671 here. You did not indicate how your block system is wired/workings.
I am taking a "Leap of faith" on this to help you with your challenge. I will assume that the lead train jumps the two outside insulated rails. This opens the following trains circuit through the use of a double pole double throw relay. When the lead train travels far enough ahead, the following trains relay returns to normal run mode. This action energizes the center rail to allow that train to run. If this is correct than this very simple change may solve your challenge.

             Instead of the relay totally de-energize the center rail. have that open throw on your relay have the same track power, switched by the relay, travel through a 12-14volt light bulb. The result should be a stalled or very slow moving train. The light bulb will be acting as a resistor reducing substantially the power to the following train's engine. It should "Hold" the electronic E-unit into it's forward mode.
You could actually use that lighted up bulb as a block indicator on your control panel.

                              This is what I would do...671
Anyother questions, feel free to ask!
42  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: GG1 traction tires on: February 19, 2013, 06:43:46 PM
mikemarxs,
           I would think that if the tires are... Cracked, loose on the wheel, hard like stone, worn way below the tire groove, slipping even after cleaned, out of round or falling off the wheel, it is time to replace.
           If this is not the case, keep on running them.

                                                   671
43  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: First cold weekend, playing in the basement!! on: February 11, 2013, 10:36:16 AM
Hi Cobrabob,

           Your layout looks great! I see a lot of exposed bare wood. If you are going to put "grass" in those areas, here is an idea.
           McMaster Carr is an on line catalogue. Take a look at...'Sweeping Compound'. item # 7264T15. This is a green colored Woodfiber and Wax product.
           I used it this year on our building's public train layout display. It is a green fluffy product similar to what you buy in the hobby shops for $10-$15 a pound.
           You can buy a 50 lbs. container for $43.14.. That will easily cover all of your bare spots. You will have enough left over to use as a sweeping compound. I.E. garage floor, concrete floors, etc.
           I installed/applied this product by using a heavy coating of lighter/ medium brown latex paint, and then sprinkled the compound over the paint to adhere it to the train table.
           It looked great! The light wax smell dissipated within a day or two. I then sprinkled some decorative snow flakes to complete the winter scene.
           The green looked great, and it is cheap !!!!

                                           Go Green...671
44  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: 2013 Passenger cars on: February 07, 2013, 05:02:22 PM
Hi M1FredQ,

                 I think that is a tag from when Williams by Bachmann was originally Williams. I have that tag on all of my four 60' Madison sets. I believe it states that it is wired or ready for the station sounds. It does not have the sound electronics within the baggage car. That must have been a add on that you could buy in the past.
                 Maybe someone else on the site would have a better answer.

                 Well we are suppose to have a Blizzard here on Long Island starting tomorrow. I had plans of going to the Greenberg Train Show Saturday at Queens College. I guess that will not happen. Oh well I guess I will stay home and play with my trains.
                             Good luck and have lots of fun with your new equipment.

                                          671

                                                   
45  Discussion Boards / Williams by Bachmann / Re: Smoke Units on: February 04, 2013, 02:22:26 PM
Hi FredQ,

          You can order a replacement smoke unit from the on site parts section...'small size' 8 volt...price $20.00.

          Before you order a new unit, try putting the loco into neutral, run the track voltage up to12volts, observe how it smokes, if at all. If good, you do not need a new smoker.

          If you change out the smoke unit, it is held in place with 'Hot Glue' sometimes the tip of the hot soldering iron can help loosen the glue. Keep in mind that the Smoke stack top protruding from the boiler body is also 'Hot Glued' in. The smoker unit and the stack may come out together.
          The smoker needs the voltage regulator to receive approx. 10-12 volts. This allows for voltage loss due to the electronics. 8 volts of track voltage will produce about 6 volts from the smoker circuit. This will under power the smoker for a poor smoke output.
           The loco runs very fast at 10-12 track volts. I have solved this problem using the ' Joe Satnik' rectifier voltage reduction to the electric motor. Check the posts for mine and Joe's detailed action to be taken.

                                 Keep on Smokin'...671
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