Question about ON30 using Atlas 100 15" diameter curves.

[Hornblower]

Does anyone have thoughts about using 15" in diameter curves?  Are 18" better?

Thanks

[Hornblower]

To clarify, that is HO Atlas code 100 curves.

[Stevelewis]

Cant  comment  on  the  actual  ATLAs  brand,( The  equivlent over  hers is  available by other  manufacturers  such as  PECO,)    I  would  recommend  18" as a minimum  radius if  you  can  fit  it  in your  available space,

I run most  of  the  Bachmann 0n30 locos,  I  have  found  that  ALL will run round  15" curves  but  they   perform  a lot  better on the  larger radius, 
You have  to  consider  also   the  overhang  on the  larger  locos such as  Mallet  2-6-6-2  & 4-6-0  which  can  sometimes cause  problems  with  clearance  at  the  trackside  and  occasionally  couplings!
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Should  note  also   that the  smaller  locos  like  Gas  Mechs  &  Porters    are  quite  happy on 15" radius  and  a lot  less than 15" as  well

Hope  this  helps 

[jerryl]

I hope you mean 15" radius.

[Kevin Strong]

This may help:

http://www.npcrr.net/On30/On30Loco_n_Car_Radius_pics.pdf

It's a link to a chart with minimum radii for On30 locos. 15" seems to be the practical minimum for a number of them, but it's pretty tight. If you can go wider, you increase your chances of being able to run more locos (including that future "must have" dream loco.)

Later,

K

[NarrowMinded]

My  forney will not run on 15r track  My  2-6-0 will not run on 15r track  they are both bachmann

NM

[Stevelewis]

My  Apologies  I did not  consider the  2-6-0 in my   post  above,   I sold  those  off  long  ago!

However  just  tried  a  Forney on  15" radius  and it  traversed it  OK  Overhang  is  a  bit  severe  though!

[NarrowMinded]

Try that forney with a car coupled to it, even coupled to the front it's marginal at best.

A loco that can't pull cars is useless
NM

Just my opinin

[Stevelewis]

Exactly  As  I stated overhang  is  a  problem  with   body mounted  couplers,, HOWEVER if  a  car  is  modified  and   bogie ( truck) mounted  couplers  are  fitted all  will be well.

Obviously its  not  nescessary  to  modify all  cars  just  those which will be  coupled  to  the  loco

I will try  to  take  a  photo. of  a  modified car 

[Hornblower]

Thanks everyone!  and yes 15" radius...

Hornblower

[bobwrgt]

For body mounted couplers you can also try a long shank coupler between first car and engine. I have done this and it works.

Bob

[NarrowMinded]

I must amend me earlier post, I just put my 2-6-0 on the Xmas village layout I am building for my wife it's an inside outside loop of 18" and 15" Radius EZ-Track, though Tight the 2-6-0 runs fine and so do the gondolas with body mount couplers. I would still stick with 18"R

NM

[riny]

I believe you really have to try out different engines on different track radii. I set up a figure-eight loop using Atlas code 100, 15" radius track (for a special small train set I made). Just to see if they worked, I tried my 2-6-6-2 mallet (On30, Bachmann) and it took the curves easily including the crossovers. But my 2-6-0 Mogul (ditto) had trouble:  the front bogies often jumped off on the curves, and the entire engine sometimes completely derailed on the crossovers. I don't know of others had similar results.

[rwiseha]

I have a small layout with a 15" 16 1/2" and an 18" radis curves.  I have run everthing (with cars) but the Forney.  I even ran the 2-8-0-no problens and my track is Atlas 100 code track.  just a note the 2-8-0 also runs at any speed.  But yes,  18" os more forgiving.  I did have to shim up at the beginning of the 15" curve.










































' is much more forgiving. 

[Tomcat]

Hi there!

The Forney´s main problem is in fact the body mounted coupler. If the coupler would have been mounted to the trailing truck the problem´s wouldn´t have occured. In tight curves, the Forney´s trailing truck becomes unstable due to the limited side swing. After that, the body mounted coupler, swinging outside of the middle of the track, shoves the coupled car, especially light ones, out of the track...

I have halfway solved this problem by removing the coupler and milling a space into the footplate, then adding a RIBU (European made) NMRA coupler pocket I still had. This coupler pocket has a centering spring and can swing freely to right and left. This did not solve everything, but the derailments decreased in numbers...

Kind regards, Tom