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Author Topic: Spectrum 2-10-2 derailments  (Read 3787 times)
rookie

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« on: November 09, 2010, 11:51:39 PM »

Just purchased one of these. I love the engine but it just doesn't seem to go through the turnouts without derailing. Does anyone else have that same problem? Why is that? i can run my diesel engines all day with no problems. I have all atlas snap switches except one Walthers curved switch. The two wheels on the front are the problem. Right now i'm running it with the 2 front wheels off. Also the drawbar just slips over the post on the tender and doesn't seem like it stays hooked as it should. Anybody out there? thanks, david
« Last Edit: November 10, 2010, 12:02:51 AM by rookie » Logged
Atlantic Central

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« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2010, 12:29:42 AM »

That locomotive will no run through snap switches, they are too sharp.

A snap switch is equal to 18" radius through the curved portion, that loco is not recommended for anything less than 22" radius, and personally I wouldn't run one on anything less than 30" radius and # 6 turnouts.

Sheldon
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jonathan


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« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2010, 07:46:57 AM »

Also,

You can bend the draw bar up, ever so slightly and gently.  That should keep the draw bar engaged on the pin.

First, make sure the draw bar screw is screwed in all the way.

Regards,

Jonathan
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bobwrgt

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« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2010, 08:26:38 AM »

Some will make it thru 18in radius with no problem. Some won't.
Check the wheel gauge of the front wheels to see if they are in gauge.
Sometimes the wire between engine and tender keeps the engine rear from swinging out. Try a few different positions for the wire. Bend the wire so it does not rub on the draw bar.
Make sure you are using the last hole in the draw bar.
If you have a small spring or small copper strip you can glue this to the top of the front truck so there is more down pressure on truck.
If the main drivers are staying on the track thru your switches the problem is with the front truck.
Look close and see if it is hitting anything on the front.

Bob
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ebtbob


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« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2010, 10:18:16 AM »

Rookie,

     A question for you.   You say that you have Atlas snap switches.   Does that mean you are using #4 switches?  If so,  then the advice previously given probably applies.   
     If you are using #6 turnouts then there may be a fix for you.  The following four photos are from my Flickr account.  any    My photos show me fixing a Peco turnout,  but the fix should work on an Atlas turnout as well.   It is easiest if the guard rails are plastic.

First image is a Peco turnout prior to the alteration



Next image shows the styrene and size I use.



Next image shows the glue that I use + the installed shim.  Note that it is much easier to install if cut longer than actually needed.



Final picture is the finished turnout.   By putting the shim on the guard rail,  the flange of the wheels going into the curved portion of the turnout will be forced away from the frog - hopefully eliminating derailments.   I have done this fix on all my turnouts and have next to no derailments anymore.



    Hope this helps.   If anyone out there wants these images sent to them via email,  contact me off list at ebtbob@verizon.net and make your subject line say Turnout fix.
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Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org
ebtbob


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« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2010, 10:20:39 AM »

Sorry all,

     My third image is incorrect.   Here is the correct image showing glue and installed shim.

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Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org
glennk28

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« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2010, 10:00:17 PM »

If  you can get a die (to thread a rod) for#2-56 scerews (or possibly #4-40)--thread the bottom end of the drawbar post on the tender--and put a nut on the post. 
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Atlantic Central

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« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2010, 10:13:35 PM »

Bob,

Just for the record, Atlas orginal snap switches, which equal 18" radius, measure out to be #3.5 - very sharp and with a curved frog.

Atlas does have a neww 22" radius snap switch, but based on the info given I suspect the OP has the sharper ones.

The loco in question will not run reliably on 18" radius, let alone go through a #3.5 frog.

Sheldon
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ebtbob


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« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2010, 11:14:50 PM »

Sheldon,

      I understand what you are saying,  but my original question stands.   The term "snap" gets used incorrectly many times.   I hear it all the time in the train store where I work on Saturdays.   Many people apply the term to all of the Atlas track,  including #6 turnouts and even the bigger ones in the code 83 line.
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Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org
rookie

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« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2010, 11:34:27 PM »

Bob,
      I suspect you are correct about the terminology on snap switches. the correct information for me would be that i have atlas #540 series left and right remote turnouts. Would # 4 or #6 turnouts be a better option? I am running an 83 code 22 degree Atlas track. I only have one curved switch and it is a walthers with, i think, a 24 degree radius. Sory for the confusion but don't let it stop you from giving advice........ thanks, david
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simkon
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« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2010, 12:17:11 AM »

Go with #6 turnouts if space allows to be safe.
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ebtbob


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« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2010, 08:04:46 AM »

David,

     Simkon is correct.   Anywhere that space allows,  #6 turnouts are the way to go regardless of what code rail you are using.   I think those stock numbers you gave are #4s correct?   If so,  then you may continue to have derailment problems whether you use my fix or not.   BTW....also understand,  if you get under 22in radius curves,  most manufacturers do not recommend diesels with 6 wheel trucks,  assuming you may or may not have diesels.
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Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org
glennk28

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« Reply #12 on: November 13, 2010, 12:36:19 PM »

We all tend to think that just because a locomotive has ten drivers that it has a long wheelbase.  Some years ago out club in Marina CA was building a new double-track wye/yard throat module.  At the time my SP 4-10-2 was the loco with the most drivers, so they used it to test the curves and switches--First showe we took it to nt brass daylight wouldn't take certain critical curves--we compared it and found that the 4-8-4 with 80" drivers had a longer rigid wheelbase than the 4-10-2 with 63" drivers.  (Some Bachmann GS-4's would get through since they had a bit more side play)

So--you might find thyat other loocos will have trouble in those snap  switches.

Bottom Line--always build for the largest locomotive you mightr ever run.  (Or--as the late John Allen did on the G&D--builf to force yourself not to buy the bigger engomes that won't run on your layout. 

gj
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rookie

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« Reply #13 on: November 13, 2010, 01:00:18 PM »

Bob,
      I believe those turnouts are numbered 451 and 452. One is a left and the other is a right. It does not have a number elsewhere so i don't know whether they are #4's or#6's or what else they could be. just from looking at pictures i would guess that my switches are shorter than the #4 or #6's. I am assuming the problem lies in the length of the turnout?  Everything i have is 22 degree radius, while obviously these kind of switches are straight with right or left turnouts. thanks, david
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simkon
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« Reply #14 on: November 13, 2010, 01:35:13 PM »

You can measure you turnouts measure the departure of the turnout (how far it goes to the side) and the length. A 4:1 ratio is a #4 and a 6:1 ratio is a #6.
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