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Timber Trestle

Started by mf5117, November 28, 2010, 07:36:36 PM

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mf5117

Was looking and trying to get some ideas for building scratch built Timber Trustles . And came across this template . Having a hard time figuring size and scale . Image said large scale Trustle template and was wondering if it was pretty close .

Redards :Mark f


Doneldon

5117-

This trestle is a little more than 14" high, depending on how high the first cross member is above the ground .  Its height in scale will depend on the scale you use.  Forexample, it would be about 39' in 1:32 scale (the "smallest" large scale), about 30" tall in 1:24 (Marklin) and about 28' in 1:20.3 (narrow gauge). I've rounded these numbers to the nearest whole foot.  You can figure them out exactly by multiplying the actual height of the trestle from ground to top of top cross member by the scale you are using, one of the above or one of the many other large scales which people use.

Good luck with your modeling.
                                                                                                                                               -- D


glennk28

Black Bear  Construction makes plexiglas jigs for building trestles in several  scales--you might try them for what they may have.  gj

Nathan

I have used the Black Bear jigs in several scales, well worth the money.

mf5117

Thanks for the info I will look for a link on them . I have a couple of friends that work at a water plant and have some access to some ruff redwood ,I was looking at using . In the post and picture ,I was going to cut them to length from the top down for height .don't really need but 8 to 10 inches . Then either give them a basting of paint and sealer or use the redwood ,but I dont really want to use brads due to they rust and then fall apart ove time I figured . I wish there was a way to mortis and tinnen them . But I would be until 2015 building them .

Sleeping Bear

 liquid nails my man...liquid nails....Later all S.B.
"If at first you don't succeed....Get a bigger hammer"

Kevin Strong

The brads (from an air-powered brad nailer) rust, but they don't fall out. (Neither do Atlas track nails.) In fact, the rust does a fair job of holding them in place. (The liquid nails or Titebond II wood glue helps as well.) I use Titebond II and a small air-powered pin nailer. The pins are smaller than brads, but don't have heads so they don't show up. The pins I use are copper (or copper coated), so they don't rust.

Later,

K

Doneldon

5117-

You can use the ratios in my previous post to obtain the exact s
izes you need.  Also, consider stainless steel nails.  They are
expensive but they'll stand up to the weather for just about forever.

                                                                               -- D

mf5117

After looking at the Black Bear site all I saw was Z.N.HO,S and O .And also said they have stop construction .Unless I missed something I didn't see where they made G or Large scale jigs or template's . Could you give me a link if there is another .

regards: mark f    5117


StanAmes

A good site for desiging and building trestles is

http://members.cox.net/sn3nut/trestles%20part%201.htm

We purched a pinner and use stainless steel pins.  Use it along with Titebond 3 to build our wood bridges.

We build Jigs as we need them.

Works very well.

Stan Ames

Loco Bill Canelos

I have had minor issues with Titebond II, but trestles constructed with Titebond III have held up best.  I cut all my lumber on my table saw, and use the special "black" ashphalt besed fence paint available at Tractor  Supply Stores.  It is like creosote, and looks ok, unless you like the look of natural wood.
Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

smcgill

Cedar / type bond III / pin brads are the way to go!  ::)
I cut up old cedar fencing ( free )   ::) ::)
Thompson waterseal was used @ one point but the newer versions it was not used on, no diff. noticed!
Sean

JerryB

I do essentially the same: Redwood, Titebond III, and 23ga. pins driven using a Grex brand pneumatic pinner.

I get scrap redwood (free) from a local lath mill. I also cut up salvaged material. Small, tight grain is preferable.

Titebond II is only 'water resistant.' Titebond III is 'water proof.'

I use the regular steel pins. They rust when in place, which increases their holding power. Stainless steel pins don't have as much 'grip' in the wood. In actuality, the pins only hold the joint while the glue dries. The glue is what keeps the joint together over the years.

Some of my retaining wall cribbing and trestle bents have been in place around 20 years. Can't remember a failure.

Happy (well joined) RRing,

Jerry
Sequoia Pacific RR in 1:20 / 70.6mm
Boonville Light & Power Co. in 1:20 / 45mm
Navarro Engineering & Construction Co. in 1:20 / 32mm
NMRA Life Member #3370
Member: Bay Area Electric Railway Association
Member: Society for the Preservation of Carter Railroad Resources

artkent

For some good info on Trestles go to the "RGS Technical Page" and click on Vol 1,#1 Bridges.  Also other good info there.
Art

willis

mf5117
check with www.trainbuildings.com, Michael Neibaum is a real nice guy to deal with.
he has jigs for any size trestle and cedar wood of any sizes needed.
he has building material also.
willis.