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Woodland Scenics Risers/Inclines

Started by czechwizard, September 13, 2011, 10:56:14 PM

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czechwizard

I've been thinking about elevating my 35" radius degree track with 4% incline grade and my 33" radius degree track with 2% incline grade, only close to the wall, it's an oval, so that trains run on different levels in the background, both starting exactly after the last straight track in a curve until they reach the full height extending some nice stretch ending in the same declines, 4 and 2% respectively, before they reach the last curve to level the normal 4 track mainline where I have crossovers and turnouts #6.

I must be stupid or something, but I've been uselessly trying to figure out what kinds of Woodland Scenics stuff exactly, starters, risers, incline sets, etc. I need for this background elevation track of 35 and 33" radius degree. I hope you experienced railroaders understand what I mean.

I'm not sure what I should buy, should I buy only one 4% Incline Set, one 2% Incline Set, and/or 4% Incline Starters, 2% Incline Starters, how many packs ? Or anything else ?

Do these Woodland Scenics products fit 35 and 33" radius degree Ez track and won't, for example, my Bachmann Amtrak passenger cars derail or uncouple on such grades  ?

Anybody has any experience with these Incline products ? Please, thank you, your Czech !

the Bach-man

Dear Czech,
The risers work well. They flex to any radius. The grade depends upon the space you have to achieve your desired elevation.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

czechwizard

For that background elevation effect I've got 78 inches by over 12 feet, for that stretch.

czechwizard

Or isn't it that I just need two Incline Sets for each track and level just the long straight part in between the grades ? The idea struck me right now.

Jerrys HO

#4
cz
look at my roundhouse project thread and go to my 2nd layout pic. this will give you some ideas how i used them.
Jerry




decided to post a pic and make it easier for you.
the back wall is 12ft and I used a 4% grade and spaced the sections out to give it a easier grade to climb. along the left wall i used pieces of 2x4"s to carry the grade over to a 3% decline that i also stretched out to make it go 11ft. and a stable elevation around the turns and then down to the track level on the other side.
right now i am trying to do the math on what grade i changed it to. all my loco's handle this perfectly with no drag going up and does not speed up going down.

czechwizard

Quote from: Jerrys HO on September 14, 2011, 06:17:16 AM
cz
look at my roundhouse project thread and go to my 2nd layout pic. this will give you some ideas how i used them.
Jerry




decided to post a pic and make it easier for you.
the back wall is 12ft and I used a 4% grade and spaced the sections out to give it a easier grade to climb. along the left wall i used pieces of 2x4"s to carry the grade over to a 3% decline that i also stretched out to make it go 11ft. and a stable elevation around the turns and then down to the track level on the other side.
right now i am trying to do the math on what grade i changed it to. all my loco's handle this perfectly with no drag going up and does not speed up going down.

Very nice, Jerry, thank you, I think I've got it. The wonderful picture speaks loud and clear. So for one track I need two sets of 4,3,2 % grade, depending on an 8, 12, and 16 foot track stretch.

Jerrys HO

cz

If I had to do it again I would use all of scenic 4% grades. They are longer  than the 3% and easier to stretch out. They come in sections already but I chose to stretch in between sections. I also did not use about 5" of the end of the incline so it is not as high as a grade as you think.
Jerry

Len

Per the chart on the side of the package the 'Rise to Run' for the WS risers is:

2% Set: 4in rise in 16ft run
3% Set: 4.5in rise in 12ft run
4% Set: 4in rise in 8ft run

One set is need to go up, one to come down, so the total runs would be:

2%: 32ft
3%: 24ft
4%: 16ft

4% grades can be rough on your locos if you like to pull lighted passenger cars with detailed interiors.

Len

If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

ebtbob

CheckWizard,

       Woodland Scenics has a book available that explains how to use the styrofoam system.   This might be a big help to you.
Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org

WoundedBear

Have a look at this video that Woodland Scenics has on their site.....it should explain a lot.

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/video/BuildingALayoutOverview

Sid

Jim Banner

Quote from: Len on September 14, 2011, 11:59:31 AM

4% grades can be rough on your locos if you like to pull lighted passenger cars with detailed interiors.

Len

I see long, hard grades as a good excuse for running multiple locomotives and/or pushers.  I love using pushers and have a couple of locomotives with their front Kadee couplers glued open.  With DCC, it is easy to add one to the back of a train when needed, then cut it free at the top of the grade and have it drift back down grade and wait until needed again.

Jim
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

RAM

Kadee couplers glued open.  Wouldn't just removing the spring do the same thing?

ebtbob

RAM,

      The answer to your question is no.   Sometimes the coupler will release and sometimes it will not by just removing the spring.   Glueing it open or cutting part of the knuckle off is the best way.
Bob Rule, Jr.
Hatboro, Pa
In God We Trust
Not so much in Congress
GATSME MRRC - www.gatsme.org