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USRA 0-6-0 & Slope Tender help

Started by Jason K, January 01, 2012, 05:01:56 PM

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Jason K

I am thinking of buying a USRA 0-6-0 & slope tender.Does it have a DCC decoder built in it or do I have to buy a decoder for it.The reason Y I am asking is because right now I am run DC and in the next two months I will be buying a DCC system.And if it does have a DCC decoder is it safe to run it on a DC track.The controller I have a MRC 7000 from some years back.So please help me on this matter   

Jason K

train guy

Quote from: Jason K on January 01, 2012, 05:01:56 PM
I am thinking of buying a USRA 0-6-0 & slope tender.Does it have a DCC decoder built in it or do I have to buy a decoder for it.The reason Y I am asking is because right now I am run DC and in the next two months I will be buying a DCC system.And if it does have a DCC decoder is it safe to run it on a DC track.The controller I have a MRC 7000 from some years back.So please help me on this matter   

Jason K
For your first question, Bachmann sells ready made decoders in its 0-6-0s.
For question 2, DCC locomotives can run on dc but check the owners manual because DCC locomotives on DC  track is a little different than put the engine on the track and go!

Jason K

 a little different ...As in ??? I am very new to this dcc stuff.I be out of the hobby for at least a good 12 years..So I  well need all the help I can get to get up to speed for now days Model Railroading.

Thanks
Jason K

jward

what train guy was referring to is that dcc systems apply an ac voltage to the track which the decoders in the locomotives read and act on. this ac voltage is constantly on the track, unlike dc where it is only applied when you turn up the throttle. since the full ac voltage is on the tracks at all times, you want to be careful about running dc locomotives on dcc track. the ac can damage the motors of dc locomotives parked on dcc track. in a dcc locomotive, the decoder blocks the ac from reaching the motor.

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jonathan

Jason,

I have two of the DCC 0-6-0s.  I run DC power, and the locos run just fine.  I am considering switching to DCC someday.  These are a great go-between locomotive.  Consider adding metal wheels and current pick up to the tender.  This greatly enhances the smooth running of these little guys.

Regards,

Jonathan

on30gn15

Hey Jason, it is probably safe to say that Jonathan is the resident 0-6-0 guru  ;D
When all esle fials, go run trains
Screw the Rivets, I'm building for Atmosphere!
later, Forrest

jonathan

#6
 :) Heh, don't know about 'guru', but I do happen to like the 0-6-0.  It was a surprise discovery.  I considered it an entry-level kind of locomotive.  However, with a little tweak here and there, it becomes a great switcher for a small layout:





Jason, the decoder is in the locomotive.  There is an on/off switch for the smoke unit.  I cut the smoker right out of the loco, including the switch and wires.  Makes more room for adding a little weight.  I have read that the heat from the smoke unit can melt the stack if you're not careful.

The new DCC 0-6-0s have LEDs for headlights; a great improvement.

Regards,

Jonathan

Jason K

Well I am  now going order one..I really thank all of you for all the input on my matter..It helped me alot.


Thanks for all the help
Jason

rogertra

Quote from: Jason K on January 02, 2012, 06:53:57 PM
Well I am  now going order one..I really thank all of you for all the input on my matter..It helped me alot.


Thanks for all the help
Jason

You'd be better off buying the ex P2K 0-6-0 switcher from Walthers(?).  It's a far superior model but is more expensive.  Sadly, the Bachmann is just an upgraded "Botchman" product.  After all, you get what you pay for.

on30gn15

#9
Quote from: rogertra on January 02, 2012, 07:08:10 PMAfter all, you get what you pay for.
Actually, I'm quite pleased with the Seaboard Air Line 0-6-0 I paid for.
Good performance for the price; runs smooth, stops and starts reliably, takes sharp industrial curves well (takes insanely sharp streetcar-radius curves well); pulls more model cars than most real 0-6-0 are reported to have been able to.

Even takes sometimes klutzy handling from someone with iffy on-and-off health; which is a function of it not having Smithsonian-quality and quantity of itty-bitty super-detail parts.
But that's okay by me; I am capable, if desired, of doing all the extra detailing required.

Everyone works on a budget; and for people like me trying to make a go of this on Social Security Disability level of income, this little beggar fills the bill admirably.
It and my IHC 0-8-0 are my favorite steam switchers.
When all esle fials, go run trains
Screw the Rivets, I'm building for Atmosphere!
later, Forrest

jonathan

I recently removed the bottom plates from my new and improved 0-6-0s.  I discovered the driver wheels now have phosphor bronze pick up wipers.  This is change from previous versions, which relied on a friction connection from the split axles onto the split frame.  This is probably the reason the new 0-6-0s move better at slow speeds. 

The pick up wipers touch the backs of the driver wheels on a high spot, eliminating the possibility of accidental bending of the wipers, like on the 4-8-2 Mountains.

The current still flows through the split frame somehow, which is where I connected the wires for the added tender pick ups.  Learned that one from Jim.

I happen to enjoy superdetailing and monkeying with the wiring, so the added benefit from the other guys' 0-6-0 is no benefit to me, especially at three times the price.  ...Just sayin' :)

Regards,

Jonathan

Joe323

Since we are on the subject of the 0-6-0  What is the best way to add weight to the tender?  It seems a bit light especially when backing up.

jonathan

Joe,

I clipped out the stock metal plates and installed some heavier hunks of metal in one and a hunk of lead in the other.  I used 30-minute epoxy to hold it in (the industrial strength thick stuff).  Be aware that I also added weight in the loco domes and the smoke unit.  If I hadn't, the added weight in the tender could have caused the loco to lose some pulling power.  The real reason I changed the tender weight was to gain access to the truck bolsters, to add current pick up.  The stock weights were in the way.  There is just one small screw that holds the tender shell.  It is just behind the front truck.

Regards,

Jonathan

Joe323

Thank you Jonathan.

Pulling power is not much of an issue since I only use the 0-6-0 to pull a 2 car excursion train but I will consider your ideas.