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train stutters and stops

Started by darthraven, February 15, 2012, 07:40:45 PM

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Mark.S+10

The tender that comes with both the 0-6-0 and the 2-6-2 do not have all wheel power pickup.  In addition they have a high rolling resistance, limiting what these engines can pull.  Both of these engines can be improved significantly by purchasing a Bachmann Spectrum tender, either the slope back for the 0-6-0 or short range for the 2-6-2.  With the addition of the Spectrum tender stalling problems with these little engines usually disappear and they can pull more cars as well.  Both of these engines, if they are the newer model in the plastic jewel case, can be great runners with the Spectrum tender.  It is too bad Bachmann continues to sell them with the cheaper tender.  A new Spectrum tender can usually be purchase on the auction site from everyone's favorite spot for less than $10.  These little engines are a real bargain.  Have fun, Mark.

Clovis-73

Thanks Mark. I ordered one and it is on the way. I also ordered Addendum 2011 from NTrak which has an article on how to hook up the new tender to ensure that both truck pickups are utilized effectively by the loco.

As I mentioned earlier, last week I called Bachmann just to confirm the pickup issue, and they didn't know and couldn't help me. Maybe I asked the wrong question.

Oh well, I sure do appreciate all of the assistance I receive on this Forum. You folks are great! Thanks,

Jim

brokemoto

#17
Quote from: greeneri on January 12, 2017, 11:48:00 AM
my 2-6-2 was running great last week. now it stutters when going forward; but runs fine in reverse.

Miranda's Maxim as explained by ke applies here:  "The poor performance of many N scale steam locomotives is almost always attributable to poor electrical contact".

I am assuming that you have a recent version.

That locomotive has a front tender truck that is live, a drawbar that conducts electricity and a split contact post on the locomotive.

Turn the tender sideways so that the drawbar will come off the locomotive.  Make sure that the contact posts on the locomotive are clean.  I suspect that your problem may not be there, as the thing will operate in reverse.  Still, while you are at it, it does not hurt to make sure that the posts are clean.

Next, turn your attention to the drawbar.  On the latest version, there are two stiff wires soldered to foil on the drawbar.  In order to carry out this part of the fix, you may have to remove the drawbar from the tender.  To do this, you must unscrew the screw that holds in the front tender truck.  Take note of how the parts sit, as you must
re-assemble in the same way as you disassemble.  Once you have the drawbar out, make sure that the stiff wires are clean.  

YOU MUST CARRY OUT THE NEXT STEPS WITH UTMOST CARE.  The solder joints on the drawbar are EXTREMELY DELICATE and will break off easily.  What I often do is to hold them in a small to average sized pair of needlenose pliers, taking care not to clamp down too hard but hard enough to hold the wires.  Make sure that the stiff wires are clean.  You can file them, sand them (sanding sticks work well), even Life Like track cleaner might work, although I have yet to try that on B-mann drawbars.  Next, you want to make sure that the contact at the split post on the locomotive is good.  You pinch in the stiff wires.  DO THIS VERY CAREFULLY.   The solder joint on the stiff wires is extremely delicate and breaks easily.

Finally, turn your attention to the front truck.   There are contact tabs along the top edge of the wheel wipers.  In fact, when you pull off the front tender truck, take care that the contact wipers on the wheels do not pop out of place.  Make sure that the tabs are clean and bend them up slightly so that they will contact the foil on the drawbar properly.

Now, lay the drawbar onto the front bolster on the tender.  Then put back the front truck, taking care that the wipers do not pop out of the wheels.  Finally, screw back the screw and put the drawbar back onto the contact post.

After all that, I must tell you that there is a better solution.   If you will purchase a B-mann SPECTRUM USRA short tender, it will fit this locomotive, with a minimum amount of work.   The advantage of the SPECTRUM tender is that it is all wheels live and has needlepoint axle pickup, which lessens the drag on the locomotive.   The design of the live trucks on the SPECTRUM tender is markedly different from the design of the one live truck on the stock tender.  Thus, with one blow, you will improve the locomotive's runnability and its pulling power.   If you will take a peak at Spookshow's website, his review of this thing contains a brief explanation how to do the swap.   You must do a minimum of surgery to the tender deck to get it to work.  There are other tutorials out there, as well.

If you have an older version, there are still fixes to it.   In addition, you can still affix the SPECTRUM tender to the older versions, it simply requires a little more work.