Switch goes one way but not the other?

[dpcubed]

Joe, Im not running both turnouts off the same switch, one switch per turnout. Also, I dont have a dvom, just a regular one, so cant get that precise, but using the meter I have with it set to the 10x ohm setting I get dead on 30 ohms resistance from each grouping, excepting testing pins 1-3 combined and 2 as the other lead, on this one it wavers between 15 and 20 ohms.


For further experimentation I removed the magnet box from the bottom of the switch as well as the metal plate that couples to the turnout mechanism itself. The problem appears to be that when you press one direction itll move the magnetic plate wall the way to the end of the box, but the other way will only move it 1/8th of an inch or so. Im guessing that means the coil for the electromagnet is wrong as it appears the poles are to close together instead of being at opposite ends of the electromagnetic box.

[jward]

it does sound as though your coils are wired correctly as is everything else. there must be something mechanically affecting the movement of the solenoids. do you notice any resistance to movement whenever you throw it the way it doesn't want to go?

[dpcubed]

Jward, when pushing the little black manual peg back and forth, going towards the direction the electronic switch wont go to(this is toward the actual split in the turnout track), about in the middle there does seem to be some resistance/binding when compared to moving it the other way. Its fairly minor when moving the manual peg quickly, but when moving it slowly is definitely noticeable when compared to moving the switch the other way.

[jward]

that bind is probably why your switch won't throw. it doesn't take much of a bind to cause problems. i"d look for a way to correct the bind if possible. this may mean disassembly.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Dennis,

Do you have an Rx1 setting on your meter?

That would give you much more accurate resistance readings. 

Also, your zeroing knob could be a thumb-wheel.

Your meter readings should not waver. 

If they do, you have a bad (intermittent) connection somewhere, either in your turnout wiring,

your meter, your meter's internal battery connections (corroded?), your test leads, or your method of probing the 3 pin connector. 

Try rotating the Rx10 knob back and forth, it might clean up the meter's internal switch contacts.

A dead or dying battery can cause your meter to waver. 

Take the internal battery out and measure it with the meter set to DC Volts, on the next setting above the battery's nominal voltage. 

E.g., if your meter's dial had 2V, 20V, and 200V settings, you would set it to 2V DC to measure a 1.5V battery,

but to 20V DC to measure a 9V battery. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[dpcubed]

Joe, Im pretty sure its because I was using a staple to tie pins 1-3 together, I had it sitting on top of the metal strips I used in the pins as the leads I have werent small enough. The only time it wavered was on pins 1-3 tied together with measuring pin 2, the rest of the time its dead solid on whatever number it settles at.


Jward, I disassembled the switch, everything looks the same as the right hand switch and moves about the same, I dont see any glaring mould lines or anything of that nature that would be adding to the resistance of the mechanics. Any thoughts on what else I should look for?

[jward]

i would try to determine if the problem is in the solenoid or in the throw mechanism. if it's in the throw mechanism, lubing it might help smooth things. i"d consider a graphite absed lube such as kadee grease-em. it works well for binding couplers, and should work well here too.....if it's in the solenoid, i wouldn't try to lube that, graphite and some oils conduct electricity and may cause more problems.

[Jerrys HO]

Dennis,
I had one turnout acting the same but in both directions. I eventually took the mechanism apart and replaced the small wire leading to the points with a piece of piano wire. I am going to do all my switches this way as it seems to throw them easier. That little piece of wire that is installed from the factory sometimes is not strong enough to pull the points.
Another thing that has not been mentioned is if you have ballasted or tried rusting your rails. The glue or paint may have gotten between the roadbed and the manual slide bar.
I have done this and regret it.

Jerry

[dpcubed]

Jward,

I actually did put greasem in it. No dice on that.


Jerry, the wire leading to the points, you mean the little piece that runs from that plastic housing that slides against the gear to the little u shaped plastic on the bottom of the strip of plastic tied to the bottom of the points? Or do you mean the points themselves in the center of the turnout?


Also, track is not ballasted or painted yet, just brand new out of the package. I did notice that oddly enough it would appear that there is some grease on it, Im wondering if some of the greasem ran to the magnet and is shorting the poles a little. Going to try stripping the grease off with alcohol, of course will take a day or two to dry enough to try it again, but I will let you know how it progresses.

[dpcubed]

Ok, so I wound up just pulling that switch and buying another one, as well as another right handed switch, this time of the grey road bed versions and now have the same problem with the right handed switch. Four other switches on the layout all work fine, this one has the same problem as previous switch. Are these really just that bad of switches? I have to say Im losing faith in the bachmann switches at a rapid pace with this issue.

[Joe Satnik]

Dennis,

Are you using the old momentary switch or the new one?

What is your source of accessories power?

Do you have a Harbor Freight store near by?

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=volt+meter

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-69096.html

Joe

[dpcubed]

Joe,


new momentary switch, new wires, new turnout, this one is not split at all but runs green wire to momentary switch, red wire to bachmann dc controller. I picked up a total of four switches Friday, the other three all work fine, this one does not, even switching the momentary switch and red wires, it still has the same problem.

[RAM]

I know nothing about Bachmann turnouts, but you talk about a red wire and a green wire.  Don't you have a third wire?

[Jerrys HO]

Doneldon,

Red is the power cord, green is the 3 wire from switch to turnout.

You beat me Hunt.

Joe does this turnout that gives you problem's in the same location as the other problematic turnout. It could be the surface is not level for the turnout. I had one binding until I sanded it smooth. Now I am starting to countersink my foam and cutting a thin piece of plywood to mount turnout on.

The wire I am talking about is the one from the plastic gear to the manual throw bar. I have only modified two so far but they operate far better than the thin wire that comes installed.

Jerry

[Doneldon]

Of course. I guess I got my wires crossed.