EM-1 Problems?

[Bucksco]

You might want to try a different transformer before removing the electronics...

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

Problem with that yardmaster is I'd like to put "Helpers" on the rear of the train to replicate coal drags going over Sand Patch, which useally 2 helpers were on the end, Big Sixes or small articulateds. and with the EM1 being a power hog the helper would be trying to do 80 SMPH while the EM1 is doing 30 SMPH.

Side note, the engine is going into "surgery" today, will post the results.

[ACY]

Regardless putting helpers on the tail of a 150 car coal drag is generally a bad idea especially if you are running standard DC and not DCC where you can speed match everything as needed.  A fairly simple solution would be to upgrade to a basic DCC system like the EZ Command which can be found for $50 or less, you can get basic DCC decoders for $15 each or less.  So for a $75 investment your problem is solved.

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

it wouldn't be a 150 car coal drag, i only have about 75. I was going to do a 40 car coal drag and hope to have an illusion effect with scenery as there wont be a real grade. and I do infact want to go DCC eventually thats why i'm installing a DCC ready board.....once i can get the dang tender open....all my screw drivers wont fit in the holes.

[ACY]

Unless your cars have extra weight added and metal wheels and couplers, the helper engines are still a bad idea and would likely cause a derailment.
I still think going DCC now is the best and easiest way to run your helper engines.

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

With 130 locomotives, DCC is NOT an option right now as all but 3(4 including the EM1) are DC. Only engines i have with DCC are my 45 Ton Switcher and Sharknose AB set and they start up with half the volts the EM1 takes. Once my layout is built(right now i just put a loop on the floor as space in the basement was limited because of all the crap down there, slowly being cleaned out) I plan on buying DCC Decoders for my engines a few at a time. when I go to DCC I'll probably use the Bachmann Dynamis system or digitrax haven't made up my mind yet.

[ACY]

Then I suggest you forego the helper engines until you convert your layout and the helper engines to DCC.
Does all your rolling stock have extra weight and metal couplers and wheels?

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

I use Mark II EZ Mates mostly, but will probably start swaping out the Kadees since the EZ mates are almost just as much. Since my longest train will be 30-40 cars didn't see the need for the metal ones. the hoppers i have which would be the main consist for the EM1 have metal wheels,

as for weights, unknown. Thats one of the things I want to do this year is weigh all my rolling stock and get em to NMRA specs. Once i can get my brain to remember, i'm going to get a postal scale when I go to Walmart.

I also may tack on some diesels on the front end and forgo the rear helpers. as I said it would mostly be for looks since i don't think the EM1 would need help with 40 hoppers plus caboose.

[ACY]

On a grade of roughly 2-3%, the EM-1 can't pull 40 cars. If your cars have plastic couplers or are not heavier than the NMRA recommended weight, you will have derailments with helpers on the end; I found this out from personal experience.

[jbrock27]

BOF, you don't need to go postal at Walmart for a scale.  I have a nice digital kitchen scale I bought at Ocean State Job lot for less than $10 that works great to weigh cars and locos.

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

BOF, you don't need to go postal at Walmart for a scale.  I have a nice digital kitchen scale I bought at Ocean State Job lot for less than $10 that works great to weigh cars and locos.

Very very funny. The one i was looking at is a digital kitchen scale for about $15. i call those postal scales since they arent ment for very much weight.

ACY. There will be no grades on the layout, I hope to give the illusion with the helpers and scenery.

[jbrock27]

I am glad you appreciated my sense of humor

[Len]

If you go through enough old Model Railroader magazines, and visit a few clubs that started out DC, you'll find there are a few tricks that help when using a rear "helper" on a DC layout.

1. Use knuckle couplers. On the helper's front coupler, be sure to remove the knuckle spring and glue the knuckle in the open position. File the little "hook" of the inside of the knuckle to prevent hang ups. This will eliminate the need for any switching maneuvers when the helper drops off at the top of the hill.

2. Set up the "helper district" with at least 3 electrical blocks. The blocks should be sized so the lead power and rear helper are never in adjacent blocks on the shortest train requiring a helper. This lets the helper be operated from it's own throttle, allowing it's speed to be matched to the train to prevent "over run" and derailments. With practice, the illusion the helper is doing something can be created without the helper actually putting any slack in the train. It also allows the helper's direction to be reversed, for return to the bottom of the hill, without affecting the rest of the train.

3. Make sure there is a siding, set up as a seperate electrical block, at the bottom of the hill to park the helper in when not in use. Adding a small shack for the helper crew is a nice touch.

As for car weights, those suggested in NMRA RP 20.1 (1oz+1/2oz per inch of car length) are a good place to start. In fact, many clubs require cars to be weighted to this RP to operate on their layouts. Some folks that don't operate at clubs feel, with modern trucks and metal wheels, this is too heavy and use 75% of the NMRA recommended weight. That's your call, the key is to be consistent on how you weight your cars.

Len

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

Finally got the tender open...

Now the board isn't labled in a way a normal person would understand...


I take it BL means Backup Light, does the V+ mean thats where the positive is supposed to go and the BL is the negetive?



Same here, i take it HL means headlight, and does the V+ mean thats where the HL Positive goes and the negetive is the HL?

Board i'm replacing this with has everything labled a little more understandable, like LED1 + and LED1 - etc.

[Len]

V+ is positive voltage, for whatever is connected to it.

The motor is slightly different, since it's bidirectional. When the loco is moving forward, M+ is positive, M- is negative. This flips when the loco is in reverse.

Len