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N-Scale Tender Issue

Started by wesselsj, July 12, 2016, 11:53:20 PM

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wesselsj

So I have a couple N-Scale 2-8-0s.  They run fine when the old "non-dcc" ready tenders (the one piece version).  Bought a couple of the new dcc-ready type with the removable bodies and my engines all run sluggish and stop.  Why is this?

Len

Even with a 'dummy plug' installed, the circuit board in a DCC ready loco drops the track voltage to some extent. So a slightly higher throttle setting is needed.

If you think it's a problem with your particular tenders, you'll probably do better asking over on the N-scale forum, or calling Bachmann's Service Center.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

RGW

Are the truck contact tabs making good contact to the brass strips in the tender? Also are the draw-bar contacts tight on the engine post and touching the front tender truck contacts ?

 

brokemoto

Make sure that the stiff wires on the drawbar and the contact posts on the locomotive are clean, as well.

Mike C

There is a circuit board inside the tender that may be the problem . It looks like you could safely remove it . A screw and cut the two wires should work .

spookshow

My experience with those ala carte tenders has been that many of them come with a lot of corrosion (or somesuch) on the various current-conducting metal parts (wheels, axle wipers, internal contact strips, drawbar wires) and require a fair amount of alcohol cleanup before things will run properly. I swear, you'd think they were warehoused under water or something.

Cheers,
-Mark

plas man

#6
Mark , its probably the assembly line personal that 'licks' their fingers to pick up the small parts ???  

its really bad on a lot of the HO stuff - whole rusty finger prints  ???

spookshow

Quote from: plas man on July 14, 2016, 10:55:43 AM
Mark , its probably the assembly line personal that 'licks' their fingers to pick up the small parts ???  
its really bad on a lot of the HO stuff - whole rusty finger prints  ???

Eww, that's disgusting - but also probably true, lol.

-Mark

RGW

Never thought of clean all of  the contacts. I have been hard wiring my truck tabs to the draw-bar on most of my spectrum tender recently. because I have had some pick up issues with the stock set up. Next time I will try cleaning the brass strips.  Seems that  when I am kitbashing the tender I manage to bend one of  those  brass strips on top of the tender floor and they seem never to work quite right after bending them bacK.

However I love Bachmann spectrum tenders. And have used them on many projects

wesselsj

Thanks for all the comments.  I'll try some of these fixes. 

James in FL

I wouldn't be so quick to assume the corrosion is the result of the acidic composition of saliva, but I wouldn't rule it out.
I would be more inclined to attribute it to the metallurgical composition (purity) of the parts.
If possible, take Mike C's advice and remove the circuit board, I have done this to all my Spectrum tender upgrades.
Even using the jumper plugs, there is still a lot of voltage required to get it moving. Don't like that.
Use a pencil eraser to clean the contact points if you can, be sure to support the parts so no bending will occur.

QuoteSeems that  when I am kitbashing the tender I manage to bend one of  those  brass strips on top of the tender floor and they seem never to work quite right after bending them back.

Jep, I've mangled a few myself.
I have notched a piece of sprue and used some evergreen or plastruct to hold (glue) the strip in position.


wesselsj

So I ended up removing the circuit board.  Works fine now!!!!

gatrhumpy

The stock Bachmann circuit board has a lot of RF suppression (capacitors) that are required for minimal wireless frequency interruption in Europe. Once you remove the capacitors, you're good to go. Glad it worked.