Replace Metal connectors with plastic connectors

Started by SaulShimansky, April 27, 2017, 11:04:15 AM

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SaulShimansky

I am trying to setup a separate zone on my HO layout & need to remove the metal connector & replace with plastic connectors.  Tried to pull out metal connector from E-Z Track but on five different tracks wrecked four tracks when using a long nose plier.  Am I missing something? Is there an easy way to remove & replace the E-Z track connectors?   

WoundedBear

Quote from: SaulShimansky on April 27, 2017, 11:04:15 AM
Is there an easy way to remove & replace the E-Z track connectors?   

Not really.

Sid

Joe Satnik

Dear All,

Here is a link to a thread containing the method that Jeff-Narrowminded uses to pull the joiners out without wrecking the track:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,21790.0.html

Unfortunately the link to his photobucket video demonstration no longer works for me. 

Someone else give it a try ?

Hope this helps.

Joe Satnik
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Hunt

Quote from: Joe Satnik on April 27, 2017, 05:22:18 PM

Unfortunately the link to his photobucket video demonstration no longer works for me. 

Someone else give it a try ?

Hope this helps.

Joe Satnik

Joe try

http://vid792.photobucket.com/albums/yy202/NarrowmindedRR/20121110195709.mp4


Flare

An alternative means of setting up a gapped power zone is to use a razor saw to cut through the rails, but not so deep that you cut the ties.

I've done this to create reverse loops on my E-Z Track and it works great.  Especially if you fill the gap with a styrene I-beam the same height as the rails so they don't creep back together.

jbrock27

#5
I am with Sid.  

Even employing Narrowminded's method, I have found inconsistent results, which includes wrecking a rail as you have found.  You can Search here Saul for this very same Topic, as it has come up here many times in the past.

I therefore 2nd Flare's suggestion, adding that you can also use a Cutting Disc from a Dremel or Dremel like tool to cut the gap and instead of having to use a Styrene I Beam, just use a small piece cut from a sheet of Styrene, the thickness you need to fill the gap.  After gluing you can trim the Styrene down to rail profile using an Xacto knife and the proper blade (chisel).

Good luck.  Hope this helps.  :)

PS-If you use the powered cutting tool, make sure you wear eye protection.
Keep Calm and Carry On