Power shortage

[infamouselijah]

I'm using a Prairie 2-6-2, and I've noticed that it runs slower when I also have my lighted coaches on the track, and at low speeds the locomotive will stop moving and the coaches will use the power instead. Is there a way to fix this or to maybe add more power? I'm using the dc power pack from the challenger set.

[rich1998]

Have the loco wheels been recently cleaned?
How does the loco run by itself?
Any other locos to try?
Have you connected a meter to the tracks and watched the DC voltage at different parts of the layout?
Right now it sounds like a track issue.

Rich

[Flare]

If you're using only the track that came with your set, the controller may be going bad and losing power.

If you've added several more feet worth of track you may be experiencing 'voltage drop', which can be rectified by adding more feeder wires every three feet or so.

[infamouselijah]

Hmmmm....I'm sort of new to this, all I have is track and 2 locomotives, a couple cars. I have not cleaned the wheels, but I've only had the loco for 3 weeks or so. It runs fine on its own, my EMD F9 usually won't just stop moving when the coaches are on the track. I can try to tighten the joiners, as I haven't done so in quite a while. Also, how would I attach feeder wires to the power pack? The set came with 12 tracks, now I'm using about 24. I'm using the Bachmann EZ track, just thought to mention that. Also, I've noticed that some of my nickel silver straight tracks are different. I have 4 with some wires beneath them, and 4 without. Could that also have an effect on it?

[Flare]

I assume you're using Bachmann's E-Z Track, they make 'terminal rerailers' that come with feeder wires, you can connect two of the included wires to a terminal block to make a double-ended feeder wire which you can daisy chain along the layout.  Ebay is a good source for more feeder wires since you'll need two per terminal rerailer.

Another option is to splice your controller's feeder cable onto copper buss wires which run along or underneath the layout, connect the terminal rerailers to the copper wires using their included cables.  Copper has less electrical resistance than the alloy used in the rails so the trains will run better over a longer distance.

Edit:  I think those different straights are for the auto-reversing sets, they have additional wiring underneath so the control segment will know when the train has reached the end.

[infamouselijah]

Thanks. Do I need an accessory terminal or something? My power pack only comes with one output plug.

[rich1998]

This might be useful in the future. I have used meters for many years including this one now. I have used more expensive ones but his one does the job just fine.
Most of the time you will use the 20 DC volt scale for your layout.
Works for car trouble shooting and house voltage. Some do not like messing with house voltage though.

Big Box stores sell inexpensive ones also.

http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm

Rich

[Flare]

Thanks. Do I need an accessory terminal or something? My power pack only comes with one output plug.

Accessory terminals are for AC accessories such as trackside lights or powered turnouts, not the trains.

All you need to wire up is the DC output to the rails.

[WoundedBear]

I'm using a Prairie 2-6-2, and I've noticed that it runs slower when I also have my lighted coaches on the track, and at low speeds the locomotive will stop moving and the coaches will use the power instead. Is there a way to fix this or to maybe add more power? I'm using the dc power pack from the challenger set.

What brand are the coaches? Are they lit with bulbs or LEDs? It may be possible that your required amperage is more than a toy train set power pack can produce.

Do things run better when you don't add the draw of the coach lamps?

If yes, then my suggestion is an upgrade of your controller.

Sid

[infamouselijah]

Thanks for all the help guys, just one more thing. My 2-6-2 won't really go over the EZ Track switches that go with the 18' radius curves. The leading boogie usually gets stuck on the wrong rail and derails the locomotive after a few laps. Does anyone else have this problem? If so, is there a way to fix it?

[jonathan]

Your Bachmann 2-6-2 Prairie is, in reality, a USRA 0-6-0 with added lead and trailing trucks.  If it were me, I would remove the lead and trailing trucks and be done with them.  The locomotive will look more like the prototype and solve the jumping switch problem.  I have done this to a 2-6-2 I have.  It is now much happier as an 0-6-0.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Terry Toenges]

To add to what Flare said about your track with extra wire. The extra wire won't have any effect on  your train running.

[rogertra]

Your Bachmann 2-6-2 Prairie is, in reality, a USRA 0-6-0 with added lead and trailing trucks.  If it were me, I would remove the lead and trailing trucks and be done with them.  The locomotive will look more like the prototype and solve the jumping switch problem.  I have done this to a 2-6-2 I have.  It is now much happier as an 0-6-0.

Regards,

Jonathan

Jonathan is correct.  It's just the Bachmann 0-6-0 yard switcher with leading and trailing trucks add to make it into a faux 2-6-2.   It's not based on any prototype.

Cheers.

[infamouselijah]

Hmm... I tried removing them, the trailing bogie came off fine, however, the leading bogie is kind of stuck; the plastic is bent down, most likely due to the screw being too tight. I'll try to remove it and let you know how it goes.

Just got the bogies off, worked perfectly! Just had to cut off a bit of the overlapping plastic. Thanks for all the help!