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HO scale Switch Track Questions

Started by rallygsc, March 20, 2007, 03:38:24 AM

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rallygsc

 ;D Hello Everyone:

it has been a while since I went all out and did a new layout with Atlas tracks, I have a small layout using E-Z track, but I want to do a more realistic layout with my nephew.

the question is this.

what Switch track would be compared to a 22 inch radius.

I plan on using code 83 track

I know there is # 4 , and such, but which one would I use that would give me the 22 inch radius turn?.

I am building a basic 2 main line layout with sidings and more, but all of the mainlines are going to be using 22 and 24 inch radius turns.

I run Big steam engines :)

I like e-z track for it's ease of use, but I want to build another serious layout like my O scale one.

any input is helpful

take care and thanks
George

Jim Banner

An Atlas #4 Snap Switch is an 18" radius curve tangent to a straight.  A #4 Customline has a variable radius curve.  I seem to recall that the minimum radius through it is something like 20".  With your 24" radius mainline, I think you would be happy with #6 turnouts.
 
A #6 or even a #8 would be more compatible with most big steam, depending on just how big.  Keep in mind that much of the really big steam was articulated, and that same articulation is what allows a Bachmann 2-6-6-2 to navigate 18" radius curves and #4 turnouts.  Not elegantly, but reliably. With 10 and 12 coupled steam, even #8 turnouts might not be large enough.  Some of them, particularly in brass, have trouble with 36" curves.
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

Virginian

As noted, the numbered turnouts do not have a constant radius like the snap switches.  The number is the relative angle at the frog; on a #6 the route diverges 1" for every 6" of run, or approximately 9-1/2 degrees.  The rail to the frog curves, but is straight from the frog on the diverging route.
I also run rather large steam, and have never had an issue with #6 turnouts other than you do need to take them at a relatively sedate speed, and the dimensions better be in spec all the way.  For a crossover you plan to take at track speed, #8 does do better.  Some engines will not go thru a #4 turnout, so use them judiciously in yards, or select sidings only.
Good luck.
"What could have happened... did."

lanny

I use Atlas #6 Customline turnouts almost exclusively on my layout (a few Custom line #4 for small industrial sidings).

The only difference is that I have two Peco 'large radius' turnouts for two areas of mainline curve where a turnout was required.  I don't know what the 'radius' of a Peco 'large radius' turnout is, but my overall track radius ranges from 32"-38".

So far, even when I had a Lionel Challenger running on my layout, I had no problem with the Atlas code 100 #6 turnouts (my track is all code 100 NS). 'Course I haven't tried to run anything through turnouts at 'high speed' and I've never run a 4-8-8-4 'Big Boy' on my layout (which will make Gene happy to hear :-).

If you have the room and want a really nice crossover or dependable 'high speed' turnouts, #8 would be best, I think.

lanny nicolet
ICRR Steam & "Green Diamond" era modeler

SteamGene

You are a fine Jedi Knight, Lanny.  The Force is with you and you will never go over to the Dark Side. 
BTW, am I right that the IC went down both sides of the Mississippi?  I'm thinking it went through Alexandria, Louisiana, where I was born and my mother born and raised.  I know the T&P did. 
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Stephen Warrington

Hi Gene it might have been the Y&MV through Alexandria which was a line the ICRR owned here in MS and LA. I dont run Big Boys either just heavy IC Mountains 2-6-0s a N&W J 4-8-4 and a 0-6-0 plus alot of dismals on my Y&MV.

just remember the bigger the steamer the bigger the switch is needed. I have mostly #4 and #6's on my line. I do have ancient brass Atlas #8s with solid brass frogs and hand spiked ties from the 1960s still in the boxes with the $1.35 price tag and a #4 switch kit was 69 cents.

Stephen

rallygsc

Hello Everyone:

I thank all of you kindly for the replies.

see I have a bit of a dilema.

I have a nice O scale layout, but my nephew wants me to do a HO scale one.

I am debating on whether to use Atlas track or if I should use E-Z track.

I recently purchased a two spectrum sets cheap,

two exlporer steam sets for $75.00 each with 22inch radius curves,

and a Warbonnet by athearn with 18inch radius e-z track.

I know how to weather the Realtrax by MTH to make it look better.

but I am wandering if I should go with the ez track.

I am not into the dcc thing yet, I am an old fashioned modeler that uses blocks and switches :)

I want to build a layout that I can run a challenger or a mallet on, I noticed the new spectrum 4-8-2 needs 22 inch radius according to bachmann.

so that means I would have to run 22 inch on both mainlines or 22 inch on the inner main line and a larger one on the outer.

I have used the Atlas RTS software, but there is a problem a lot of the radius bachmann uses is not on the RT software.

the table I have is 6ft by 9ft,  I want to run two mainlines, and then go from there on the design.

this is the reason I was wandering on the switches, I don't want to mess up and use the wrong ones for the larger engines.

I just got back in to HO scale even though I have been buying a lot of stuff of and on for the past 2 years.

in O scale 3 rail it is a little simpler for the radius, that's why I hope I am not bugging anyone with these questions.

I found out that the model power steel bridge works with E-Z track without mods, so that is one hurdle down.

any input will be greatly appreciated.

take care and thanks
George

YES I am a LOOPER :)

Hoople

Quote from: SteamGene on March 21, 2007, 05:33:25 PM
You are a fine Jedi Knight, Lanny.  The Force is with you and you will never go over to the Dark Side. 

So that makes me Darth Vader I guess.
-Hoople-

Modeling UP, SP, and D&RGW in colorado between 1930 and 1960.

GIVE US HARRIMAN STEAMERS BACHMANN!

Jake

#8
Quote from: rallygsc on March 22, 2007, 01:00:58 AM
Hello Everyone:

I thank all of you kindly for the replies.

see I have a bit of a dilema.

I have a nice O scale layout, but my nephew wants me to do a HO scale one.

I am debating on whether to use Atlas track or if I should use E-Z track.

I recently purchased a two spectrum sets cheap,

two exlporer steam sets for $75.00 each with 22inch radius curves,

and a Warbonnet by athearn with 18inch radius e-z track.

I know how to weather the Realtrax by MTH to make it look better.

but I am wandering if I should go with the ez track.

I am not into the dcc thing yet, I am an old fashioned modeler that uses blocks and switches :)
I want to build a layout that I can run a challenger or a mallet on, I noticed the new spectrum 4-8-2 needs 22 inch radius according to bachmann.

so that means I would have to run 22 inch on both mainlines or 22 inch on the inner main line and a larger one on the outer.

I have used the Atlas RTS software, but there is a problem a lot of the radius bachmann uses is not on the RT software.

the table I have is 6ft by 9ft,  I want to run two mainlines, and then go from there on the design.
this is the reason I was wandering on the switches, I don't want to mess up and use the wrong ones for the larger engines.

I just got back in to HO scale even though I have been buying a lot of stuff of and on for the past 2 years.

in O scale 3 rail it is a little simpler for the radius, that's why I hope I am not bugging anyone with these questions.
I found out that the model power steel bridge works with E-Z track without mods, so that is one hurdle down.

any input will be greatly appreciated.

take care and thanks
George

YES I am a LOOPER :)





B Hmmm... Well I think (this is just my opinion you don't have to do this, it is yours and your nephew's layout) Just to make it easier for him to operate you should just try DCC it's actually really simple and uses only about 1/4 of traditionaly wiring.


U As for track I would recomend atlas track, instead of atlas snap track, try Atlas (or any brand of) flex track, it makes for much more "Flexible" (tee hee) track arrangements, and with a 6x9 space you can easily lay about 33"-34" radius curves, so you can run basically anything (except as stated brass 10+ coupled engines) But if you do go with snap track I would not lay 22" and 24" radius directly outside of eachother, on the outside line start the curve 1-1.5 inches after the inside line, and on a 180* curve add a 1-1.5 inch filler in the middle. And if you do go with flex track


I O scale actually uses the same principle for radius as any other scale, It measures radius from the middle 'Third' rail which in any other scale is the same as the centerline.


Hope any of this helps.
Co Admin/Founder of the North American Narrow Gauge Modelers!
http://www.getphpbb.com/phpbb/northamericanna.html
www.myspace.com/vfb1210

JIMMY!! HAFF AR LODE JUST DROPPED LOOS!!!

lanny

Thanks, Stephen, for answering Gene's question about the ICRR down south. I am not familiar with those areas, so I learned something too. Iowa is pretty much what I model.

Gene and Hoople ... this is getting interesting :-) Jedi knights running 4-8-2s, 4-6-2s, etc ... and Darth Vader running Challengers and Big Boys? hmmm ... well of course ... Darth vader would run 'Big Boys', but somehow, 'Challengers' seem more 'Jedi like'. :-)

Right now, I am having fun working on the Spec 2-8-0. It's gonna be awhile. Hope mine turns out as nice as Jon Grant's or Ray Breyer's! Here's the first stage of my 'kit-bash'. Eventually I hope this will be a #908. I like those 'Paducah' domes and the #908 was possibly the only ICRR consolidation that had one of those style sand domes.



Things will get better  :-) Thanks Ray, for all your help!

lanny nicolet
ICRR Steam & "Green Diamond" era modeler