Decoder for H-16-44

[Inspector]

Helping a friend with a N scale H-16-44 diesel item no. 61456.  Literature with model shows some things about DCC but does not identify candidate decoders.  Which one should I use Mr. Bach Man?

[johnTom]

Inspector - I understand your problem you're not alone.  I too am having the same problem with my H-16-44, my dealer wont touch Bachmann. Mr. Bach-man, should I mention that I am around the corner from NCE..

[hobo1]

Try a tcs m-1 decoder

[Inspector]

I am aware of hard wiring a decoder such as the M-1.  I would actually use the CTS Z2 for this application.  I am asking the question to make sure there is not a dedicated drop in decoder for this loco before I use the hard wiring approach.

[TCWORLD]

There is no Drop-In. The circuit board of the H16-44 has 7 pins designed to have any 2 function decoder hardwired in to the solder points.

[Inspector]

Thanks for the reply from TCWorld.  Now I would really like to have that verified from Mr. Bachmann.  He has been absent here.

[hobo1]

save yourself alot of trouble, but an atlas model

[skipgear]

There is no drop in decoder. It is designed for a hard wire application.

There is a screwed on weight that can be removed to make room for the decoder. Any micro decoder should fit fine (DZ125, TCSM1, etc.)

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/N614X_IS001.PDF

[the Bach-man]

Dear All,
The above information is correct. As with most N Scale locos, there is not room for a plug/ socket and a decoder, so hard wiring the N Scale decoder of your choice is the way to go.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Inspector]

Dear All,
The above information is correct. As with most N Scale locos, there is not room for a plug/ socket and a decoder, so hard wiring the N Scale decoder of your choice is the way to go.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

Thanks for your reply, Mr. Bachman.  I have another question for you.  The literature in the model shows the board to wire in the decoder.  The literature says the wiring contacts on the board are on the engineer side of the loco in cab forward configuration.  The actual model has the contacts on the fireman side of the loco in cab forward.  Is this correct or is the decoder up side down?  Also, it shows the numbering to be 8, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 in order from the long hood end.  Is that correct or is there another order I should follow?

[skipgear]

If I remember correctly, the numbers are silk screened on the lightboard. Just follow what is printed on the board compared to the wiring chart in the manual.

Also, most roads ran these long hood forward for reference when you are setting up NDOT.

[Inspector]

If I remember correctly, the numbers are silk screened on the lightboard. Just follow what is printed on the board compared to the wiring chart in the manual.

And here is why I brought this up, gear of skip.  The board on this loco has those numbers and the 7 is on the front end and the 8 is toward the cab.  I hope Mr. Bochmann comes back and verifies if I should follow the literature or the numbers on the board.

[the Bach-man]

Dear Inspector,
I'd follow the numbers, but I'd like Jim Banner's input. He is much better at this than i am!
Thanks!
the Bach-man

[Jim Banner]

First off, let me say that I do not have an N-scale Baby Trainmaster to check.  But I will make some assumptions and let Inspector check his friend's locomotive to see if these assumptions apply.

(1) I assume the adapter board where you connect the decoder has symmetrical mounting holes that allow the board to be installed more than one way.  That is, if you removed the board, you could turn it 180^o and still be able to reinstall it.  This is often done by the designer so that by simply putting the board in "backwards," you can customize the locomotive to run long hood forward without complicating the installation of a decoder or requiring reprogramming the decoder for long hood forward operation.  This would be a good scheme for people with an E-Z Command  because they cannot reprogram for a backwards decoder.   

(2) I assume the board has some jumpers on it for operation on dc.  These jumpers could be plug in ones that you just pull out or they could be traces printed on the board that you would have to cut when installing DCC.

(3) I assume the numbering corresponds to the pinout of an 8 pin socket if a socket had been used.  The tipoff here is that #8 is next to #1 which is exactly what is needed for a short jumper between the right motor connection  on #1  the right wheels on #8.  The left motor connection on #5 is already next to the left wheels connection on #4.

My advice is to remove the jumps and follow the numbers.  I don't have any manual for this locomotive but very strongly suspect that the following connections apply:

#     connection                      wire colour
1    motor "right" connection         orange
2    rear light                             yellow
3    no connection                      n.a.
4    left wheels                          black
5    motor "left" connection          grey
6    front light                           white
7    lights common                      blue
8    right wheels                        red

Check the above table against the manual.  If it is correct, and I believe it will be, go for it.

My personal favorite decoder for tight installations is the Digitrax DZ125.  It is small enough to lay flat on a dime with nothing but the wires hanging over.  It has BEMF control for super control at low speeds.  And it is compatible with Digitrax's low cost Z-bug sound decoder which can be installed in a dummy locomotive if there is no room for it and a speaker in the powered locomotive.  But that is another story that we can discuss at length at a later time.

Jim Banner 

[TCWORLD]

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/N614X_IS001.PDF

That shows the correct wiring of the H16-44

The pins are as follows as you move in from the end.
 
Red Ora Yel Bla Gre Whi Blu