knuckles attached to cars instead of trucks...

[SAW]

I recently purchased a Chesapeake and Ohio engine and tender... The coupler is attached straight to the tender and not the truck of the tender... This causes the car directly behind the tender to be pulled off the track when going into a turn... What can I do to fix this problem???

[ABC]

The problem is not the coupler, nor the coupler being mounted to the tender, the problem is as follows: you are trying to run a large steam engine on curves that are not wide enough for your locomotive to function properly. Your options are to return the locomotive to the hobby shop and explain your situation or to buy larger radius track (or flex track at a larger radius). Body mounted couplers are actually preferred by 99.9999% and switching the coupler to truck mounted will only create more problems and will not correct the problems. I repeat switching to truck mounted couplers (talgo trucks) will exacerbate the problem, not correct it. You will have issues when switching and traveling in reverse if you switch to talgo trucks.
What radius curves do you have? I would suggest the 19" or 17.5" radius curves for best results and best appearance. If you are short on space go with the 12.5" curves assuming you are using E-Z track, if you are using flex track I'd go with curves that are at least 13" as sharper curves do not go well with large steam like a 2-6-6-2, 4-8-4, 2-8-4, 4-8-2, etc...

[skipgear]

I will start with a few questions.....

Which loco? (Being C&O Steam, it would have to be a Heavy Mountain, H4, H5, or Consolidation.)

What style coupler are you using.....
Are you still using the knuckle couplers or did you convert it back to Rapido's?

What radius curve and type of track?

What is your first car that you are coupling to in the train that is derailing?


Not knowing the answers to the questions above, here are my suggestions.

** If using Rapidos, swap them back to the Knuckle couplers, either the Bachamn working coupler, or an MT1133 conversion. Knuckle coupler types have better side to side movement and will cause fewer problems.

** Add weight to the first car in the train. Most pieces of rolling stock are well under the NMRA standard for weight. Adding weight will help tracking. If it is a box car, add a 1/4 stick on wheel weight in the car and see how it performs.

** Make sure your layout doesn't have any reverse curves. You should not have a left and right hand curve back to back. There should always be a short straight between curves of opposite directions to eliminate problems. This applies to mainly to tighter radius 9 3/4, 11" etc. Usually anything over 14-15" radius, you can get away with reverse curves without affecting all but the longest cars.

** Current Bachmann steam operates best on 11" or larger curves. The best option would be 12-14" radius or greater.

[ABC]

Current Bachmann steam operates best on 11" or larger curves. The best option would be 12-14" radius or greater.

I just remembered, a guy at my local club was complaining about how his 2-6-6-2 does this on his 11" radius E-Z track just a few weeks ago, so I'd be sure to go with 12-14" or greater.

[SAW]

Currently, I'm using the dummy knuckle couplers and have converted any cars that had the old Rapido's...

I started my set with "The Yard Boss", and the beginner set came with 12" radius (24" diameter) curved track and I have stayed with this radius thruout the set-up...

The only place I have any reverse curves is on one switch (turn-out) track. Oddly enough, it does NOT derail there...

It does not seem to matter what car follows the tender as this was my first hope for a quick fix. Sadly, whatever car it is will be the one to derail. I will try the weights...

Thanx to all for your time and effort, I look forward to more help...

[skipgear]

If you are using the Bachmann dummy couplers, look for flashing on the coupler keeping the knuckle from floating side to side properly. The centering springs from the Rapidos are a little stiff for using with the knuckles which may be your problem. The Rapidos were longer and needed more spring tension to keep them from drooping.  Rapidos were also designed to couple vertically and didn't have as much side to side play built in.