Building a Shelf for Train

[asuheels]

I want to build a shelf around my boys bedroom to run our new Bachmann train (Overland Limited).  Does anyone have any ideas, experiences, or advice on doing such a project?  Will not have to cut through any walls, etc...

Thanks,

B. Allen
ASUHEELS

[OldTimer]

The easiest path is to use commercially available shelving (the track and bracket stuff) that you can get from any home improvement store.  Personally, I build benchwork in 2X4 foot sections out of 1X4 pine (pick out the straight ones).  I screw the back directly to the studs and support the front on 2X2 legs with bolts in the bottom of the legs for minor leveling adjustments. 

There is an excellent book from Kalmbach called "Shelf Layouts for Model Railroads." by a guy named Iain Rice.  If you don't have a LHS, you can buy it on-line from Kalmbach.  If you are contemplating a shelf layout, the 20 bucks or so that the book costs is well worth it.

Hope this helps.
OldTimer

[CNE Runner]

Allen - I use commercially available 'track shelving' to support my Monks' Island Railway. The only problem I had was getting the layout level. I used a laser level to line up the wall tracks BUT the shelf supports are not made to exacting standards (or one has more paint applied than the other) - resulting in a layout that was off level enough to enable some of my better cars to roll. I solved this by raising the layout via clamps...and then gluing a wooden support between the inside of the fascia and the shelving support (obviously glued only to the 1"x 2" fascia support piece and not the metal support piece). In my case I didn't want anything in contact with the floor; so that left out traditional benchwork legs.

Ray

[Doneldon]

asu-

A lot depends on how wide you want your shelf to be. Two feet all around the room will seriously interfere with using even the largest bedroom. On the other hand, six to eight inches won't get in the way much. You will have to intrude farther into the room at corners. Site the track high enough that there is room for furniture underneath. Otherwise, the whole room tends to become unnavigable. Also, you need to decide if you want a railroad that winds all of the way around the room, goes back and forth between two points or runs continuously between two points by looping on both ends. In the first case, you'll have to devise a hinged or lift-out gateway for the entry and closet doors. In the second case, you won't be able to just let trains run and you'll have them backing up half of the time unless you can fit turntables or wyes in. In the last case you'll need fairly large blobs at each end for the reverse loops.

This may sound pretty complicated but it doesn't have to be. The Kalmbach book suggested by Old Timer has solutions for all of these challenges.

Welcome to the hobby and this Board. I hope to see more posts from you in the future.
                                                                                                                                                                  -- D

[bobwrgt]

I have used 1x6 and 1x4 all around the room about 12inch down from the ceiling. It has worked very well for me. I screwed 1x2 furring strips to the studs and then just screwed the 1x6 to the top of the furring strip. I have used this for HO gauge as well as G gauge with no problems. The hard problem is finding good lumber to work with.
I go to estate sales and check the garage for old lumber (good and dry) in the lofts. It is usually stable also. Have a table saw and cut it to the size i need.

Bob

[pjsdad]

I'd use good plywood. Perfectly flat, no worry about warpage, you can do larger sections for corners and such with the same material..

[asuheels]

Guys, thanks for the help and advice.  The project width will be 1x8 at the most.  I hope to run my train from childhood on a raised level above the Bachmann.

ASUHEELS

[Joe Satnik]

This may help.....

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,6808.0.html