track usage

[jsdranger]

is it easier to purchase Atlas 83 code flex track and cut it to length or easier to get track lengths of 3 6 & 9" and smaller to fit in to place.

I ask as i am using anyrail to design a new layout and as a newbie i was curious to see which is easier, cutting flex track or using precut pieces

thanks

[jonathan]

I'm not sure about which is 'easier'.  I prefer to think of it as which kind of track will provide the best results.

The advantage of flex track:  longer lengths of track without joints, means better current flow with less soldering of track joints.  Cutting flex track is not too difficult using a dremel, a track nippers or razor saw.

Sometimes sectional track pieces are more convenient, especially curved pieces when tolerances are going be tight, say a place where your trains are going to be turned at the ends of your layout.  I also like using sectional track for my turntables.

This is just one man's opinion, but the short answer is you need both.  Of course hand laid track is probably the best option, but seems a bit harder. I haven't tried it... yet.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

Jonathan - handlaying track isn't as hard as you might think. You need good gauges  (including an NMRA gauge for switch work and guard rail clearances), a pair of spiking pliers, rail, spikes and a lot of patience.

At out former club we used to purchase bags of precut ties. You need a jig to help lay them and a little practice is helpful. Small spikes are a must. With decent gauges and tools you can lay quite a few feet of track in a short time.

Switches can be purchased or you can make your own. Switches require some practice and forethought.

My only concern with using things like EZ track is that the cost can be a significant factor on a large layout.

Best thing is to let people decide forthemsleves.

By the way, Jonathan, no new engine conversions?

[jonathan]

Woody,

Saving all my pennies for an EM-1!  We'll see what kind of tinkering is required.

Sorry to skew from the topic.  Back to track laying.

If you plan to use code 83 flex track, you'll notice no holes for the track nails.  Underneath the ties are some dimples provided.  You can push a nail through from the bottom to complete to hole or use a small drill bit to make your own nail holes.  I've done both.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Woody Elmore]

I've said it before but a friend uses silicone caulk to hold down his flex track. It even works on homasote. I have also seen layouts where the ballasting kept the track in position with only a few strategically placed nails to hold it. If you wire from underneath the wires will also help to keep the track in place.

If you ballast flex track, artist's matte medium is great to use. You can dilute it and apply it with an eye dropper. Diluted Elmer's gets brittle; the matte medium doesn't get really brittle and a big jar is cheaper than Elmer's.

Jon I have a friend who said he wanted at least one HO model of every class of Pennsy steam engine. He pretty much attained the goal - all it took was cash and patience.  I assume you're doing the same with the B&O. How's the dockside performing?

[Doneldon]

ranger-

Another advantage of flex track is that it's easy to do things like curve easements and the little adjustments that are sometimes necessary to get everything connected. At one time (prepare for an old fogey's boring I-remember-when story) flex track was laid on cruddy cardboard like ties which weren't realistic at all. Today's flex track can look as good as anything other than carefully and authentically hand laid track. And while the straights won't save you much, turnouts and crossings are much less expensive than the same track components already mounted on plastic roadbed.
                                                                                                                                                                                    -- D

[RAM]

OK Don, old fogey's boring and all that. They were fiber ties, and you didn't want to get it wet.  Also it was not really  flex.

[Doneldon]

RAM-

I think you're right; they did call them fiber ties. But they sure smelled like cardboard.

                                                               -- Doneldon

[Jim Banner]

Hey, that flex track with the fibre ties was a big step forward.  Before that, it was buy the fibre tie strips, buy the rails and buy a bag of spikes.  But even that was an improvement in its day.  With the fibre ties, there was no need to fool around with track gauges - the fibre ties were self gauging by using the holes already properly spaced for you.  The spikes were much fatter that what we use today and would split wooden ties unless you predrilled, but they held quite well in softer material like Homasote.  And they exactly matched the holes in the fibre ties.

If you didn't like fibre ties, there was always Tru Scale track.  Tru Scale would supply you with wooden road bed with milled ties already in place.  All you had to do was cut it to length, splice various curves, straights and switch bases together, and then spike on some rails.  It too was self gauging.  If you wanted your could have the best (worst?) of both worlds by laying fibre tie track on Tru Scale roadbed without ties.

None of these systems has ever matched the flexibility and realistic look of hand spiked track on hand laid ties.  But when you have one hour to teach a group of youngsters how to turn their train set into a model railroad, I have to say "thank God and H. Lee Riley for E-Z Track."

Jim

[rogertra]

An aside ---
In fact, you should thank H. Lee Riley for the snap-fit E-Z Track according to United States Patent. 

Keep in mind, Bachmann's "E-Z Track" is, a Model Railroder said in their review, "An entry level track system."