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DCC conversion

Started by jyoung8442, September 05, 2011, 06:23:43 PM

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jyoung8442

Is it possible to convert a 4-8-4 from DC to DCC? I purchased this steam loco as part of a set and now wish it were DCC.  Any help appreciated.

jward

it is possible to convert just about any locomotive to dcc. some are easier than others.

which 4-8-4 do you have?
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

jyoung8442

It came as part of a train package from Bachmann named the Overland Limited. The engine is a Union Pacific 4-8-4.  I don't know how else to define it.
Thanks for getting back to me.

ACY

If you are willing to do a good amount of work then, here's what you can do:
Wire the tender for electrical pick up, install metal wheels that are insulated on one side, get tethers to connect the locomotive to the tender (electrically) then you may need to make adjustments to the lights and/or the board, after which point you can install a DCC decoder.
Otherwise either stick with DC or sell this one and buy a DCC locomotive.

jyoung8442

Thanks for the tips on this.  Looks like the sale of this locomotive is imminent! Thanks again for responding.

Julian102002

Would the EZ Command Walk Around Product 44907 work with non DCC trains like the Overland Express?  Or does it have to be a DCC train too?

Thanks,

Julian

ACY

#6
You must purchase a the E-Z Command DCC system to use the walk-around companion, and there is really no point in buying it (the Walk Around Companion) unless you have multiple DCC locomotives.

Note to Jim:
If he is operating one DC and one DCC locomotive it would be a lot cheaper and easier to just buy an E-Z Command system and use the pre-existing DC controller to control the DC loco. I don't see any advantage to buying the walk around companion to go with the system until you can or are planning to run two separate DCC locomotives simultaneously on your layout.

Regarding the 4-8-4, this particular one (at least mine) seemed to be lacking in pick up despite what one would think with all the wheels that have pick up. I am not sure why this is, but at least for my loco and likely many others, it is necessary to have tender pickup to ensure smooth trouble-free operation. Your experiences may differ, but I was just sharing mine. I am not sure if you have a 4-9-4 from the overland limited set, but if so, I would be anxious to hear your experiences.

Jim Banner

#7
I seem to be in disagreement with ACY on both of his posts on this thread.  If you know how to solder, how to follow directions, and are not colour blind, then installing a decoder yourself is not out of the question.  Northerns have a lot of pickup wheels so tender pickup is not an absolute requirement.  If you are contemplating installing a sound decoder, dirty track can cause the sound system to misbehave, tender pickup or not.  Clean track plus a drop or two of conductive lubricant to help keep it clean will normally look after the problem.  If you are not considering sound, you often have the option of installing the decoder inside the locomotive which greatly reduces the number of wires between the locomotive and the tender.  My own Northern has had problems with split insulators between the half axles but never a problem with pickup.  Looking at it again today, I suspect it is the Bachmann Plus version.  In any event, it is drilled for equalizing springs instead of using bronze wipers on the backs of the wheels.  Perhaps this explains the difference between ACY's observations and my own.  Or perhaps it is just my use of conductive oil on the rails.

Other options include having a decoder installed for you.  Having a dealer install one is expensive.  Having one installed by members of a local club can be much cheaper, and sometimes even free.

The E-Z Command will operate a dc locomotive, with or without the Walk Around Companion.  There are some caveats associated with this.  They are listed in the E-Z Command manual and what they basically tell you is to not leave a dc locomotive with no decoder sitting still on a DCC powered track.  This means you either have to remove it from the track or park it on a siding where you can turn off the power to the track whenever you are not using the locomotive.

It is also wise to keep an eye, or better yet, a finger on the locomotive temperature until you see how well it runs with the E-Z Command.  The problem is that with DCC, there is continually power on the rails which heats up the motor in a dc locomotive, running or not.  The worst heating occurs when the motor is not turning and the locomotive is sitting still.  When the motor is stopped, it does not move any air through itself so there is almost nothing to remove the heat.  When running, it is best not to have it pull its maximum load.  And frequent stops, every five to ten minutes, to feel how hot the locomotive is getting will allow you to find out what load it can safely pull.  So yes, the E-Z Command will operate your dc locomotive.  But it is a bit more troublesome than operating a dc locomotive on a dc power pack or a DCC locomotive on a DCC track.  In a way, it is like operating a real steam locomotive.  If you don't damp down the fire when it is stopped or you try to improve the performance by over firing, you may have a catastrophic failure.  Unlike a real steam locomotive, a catastrophic failure of the model will only end its running until it is repaired - it will not end your life.

Although a multitude of DCC locomotives would be nice, you can operate one dc locomotive and one DCC locomotive independently and at the same time with an E-Z Command.  If you are doing it alone, the Walk Around Companion is not necessary.  With E-Z Command, you can transfer control instantly from one locomotive to another with the push of a single button.  With the Walk Around Companion, you and a friend can both operate locomotive(s) independently, even if both have DCC on board.  If one is a dc locomotive, you can, as ACY has rightly pointed out, save the price of the Companion and use a suitable dc power pack as the throttle for the dc one..  Also note that you can run DCC locomotives with a dc power pack, but NOT independently at the same time.

Bottom line, you have a number of options open to you.  While converting your 4-8-4 to DCC by adding a decoder would be the best, the other options will work too.  Just reread and reread again the precautions if you decide to run it as a dc locomotive on a DCC track.  If you want to run your plans past us when you have decided what you want to do, please feel free to do so.  While those of us who like to help others on this forum do not always agree, we do have one thing in common - we want you to enjoy model railroading with a maximum of fun and a minimum of problems.

Jim

Text in underlined italics was added 16 Sept. 2011
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

Doneldon

jy-

I strongly urge you to consider putting a DCC decoder in your northern. It will only cost $15-20 if you don't do sound and it will protect your investment in the loco, as well as giving you greater control over it. Just think of the decoder as insurance against a fried motor or circuit board and the added operational benefits as gravy.
                                        -- D