Glue for building kits

[czechwizard]

I've got this Walther's Diesel House and Roundhouse to try to build, or stick together. My one-million-dollar question is, can I use this Carpenter's Glue Grip Bond 2 All-Purpose White Glue, formulated for wood and craft use ? It's strong, transparent, washable, and paintable ! Is it all right for plastic stuff like above mentioned ? Can I safely use it without screwing up ? I can't find a different glue here, I'm scared of CA because it's an instant mess. Thanks.

[Len]

For Walthers plastic kits I use Faller "Expert" and "Super Expert" glues for styrene. Both work by softening the plastic, and essentially welding the joint together. The difference is in the amount of working time you get. The "Super Expert" being faster to set up is good for joints that are already clamped together, e.g., building corners, just run some up the inside of the joint and it will 'wick' in and set up quickly.

Tenax 7R is also good, but tends to evaporate very quickly if the bottle isn't kept capped. Plastruct Weldene, Bondene, and Plastic Weld are also good glues for plastic. Weldene is non-toxic, and for styrene only. Like most other plastic glues, Bondene and Weldene need to be used in a well ventilated area due to hazardous vapors. Bondene will glue styrene to styrene, and ABS to ABS, but not styrene to ABS. Plastic Weld bonds styrene, ABS, butrate, and acrylics to themselves and each other.

Carpenter glue isn't really intended for plastic kits.

Len

[richg]

I use a tiny model paint brush, size OO and dip it in the glue. I let the glue "wick" into the joint. Very easy to use too much. Some of these liquid glues come with a brush attached to the cap that can be quite large in comparison. Just take your time if you have not done this before.
I have used MEK for years since I use to work with it when wiring submarine periscopes many years ago.
Make sure you use a fan when working with solvents. Some make their own fume hood which can be used for spray painting. That can be another discussion if you ever want to build one.
You might also consider using thin disposable rubber gloves.

Rich

[czechwizard]

Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

[ebtbob]

Good Morning All,

      From what I have heard about Rhino glue,  it is not the correct adhesive for your plastic models.   There is too much expansion as it dries.
      Testors makes a glue that comes in a "diamond" shaped bottle with a long metal applicator tube attached.   It is called Model Master.  I find it very easy to work with and does not require any type of brush etc to apply.   Each bottle comes with two fine wire reamers in case the tube clogs but I have only ever had to use the reamer once in over five years of use since the shape of the bottle has the tube elevated to allow remaining glue to drain back into the bottle.
       The other mentioned glues,  the Faller and Tenax,  I have tried and they are good glues,  BUT,  you need some decent ventilation due to the odors given off.

[Bucksco]

Basically what you need is plastic model cement. You should take a ride to your local hobby shop or train shop and ask for some Testors plastic cement. There are other brands out there like Plastruct, Tenax, etc.. but Testors is the good old stand by. You will have two choices - tube cement or liquid in a bottle. I prefer the liquid bottle type. You basically hold the parts together and use the brush in the cap to flow the liquid into the seam between the parts.

If there is no hobby or train shop in your area check for an A.C. Moore or Michaels craft store. They have some models in their toy area and usually have a Testors paint rack which will also have glue on it.

[richg]

Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

I wonder if you read any of the replies before buying the Rhino stuff?

Rich

[czechwizard]

Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

I wonder if you read any of the replies before buying the Rhino stuff?

Rich

The replies came afterwards, lol, gotta order the Testors glue then from Philshobby Shop, my reliable LHS only a couple thousand miles away from my house down here in Nicaragua, at real World's End. Would you believe that they don't sell any trains or plastic kits over here, so no other glues like that ? Thank you for convincing feedback. Glad I didn't screw up with those bad glues, Walthers stuff cost quite a bit. 

[ebtnut]

There can be a long treatise on the various glues and adhesives that are used in modeling, whether it is trains, planes, automobiles or half-tracks.  For styrene plastic kits, you need Testor's or equivalent liquid solvent cements.  At one time Plastruct materials were made in ABS plastic, which required its own Plastruct cement. 

If you are joining dis-similar materals (like brass details to a plastic model) you can use ACC "super glue".  I prefer the joint-filling ACC, since it gives you a bit of lee-way on joint contact and setting time.  Some contact cements, like Walthers Goo, might also be used.  Be careful though because the solvents in these glues can etch some plastics. 

If you are building a wood kit, then use something like yellow "carpenter's glue".  White glue like Elmer'ts works too, but it takes longer to set, and works best if the joint is clamped until set. 

[ebtbob]

Good Evening All,

      When in doubt as to what adhesive to use....go to www.thistothat.com.
The site is still up,  I checked before typing this message.

[Geared Steam]

Today I found and bought Rhino Glue, how about this one, anyone ?

I wonder if you read any of the replies before buying the Rhino stuff?

Rich

U gotta love it eh Rich 

[czechwizard]

Good Evening All,

      When in doubt as to what adhesive to use....go to www.thistothat.com.
The site is still up,  I checked before typing this message.

Aha, I noticed that they sell Epoxy here. Could I use it safely for the Walthers Diesel House and Roundhouse ? Thanks, guys, you're always helpful.

[Doneldon]

cz wiz-

The epoxy will probably hold it together if it doesn't attack the plastic (it probably won't). However, epoxy is a hassle to constantly mix, it has a short open time and it is pretty hard to use for fine work because it is so goopy. I wouldn't use it myself. If you can't find actual plastic model glue I suggest that you look for a general household glue. If that doesn't pan out, check stores which sell plumbing supplies. There are some plastic pipe adhesives which will work on models. Take a couple of pieces of waste (sprue, maybe) along and ask the proprietor if you can run a quick test. What you want is a product which melts the surface of the plastic but evaporates before it can dissolve the whole thing. I believe you'll find something like that will work much better and be much more pleasant to work with. That it, you'll enjoy your model building instead of worrying about gumming the whole thing up. Be sure to use such products in a well ventilated area.

                                                          -- D

[czechwizard]

"There are some plastic pipe adhesives which will work on models" - Doneldon, you mean a regular PVC pipe joint glue ? Does it have to be transparent ? I guess so.

[Doneldon]

cz wiz-

PVC or ABS. Colored glue will work much of the time. After
all, the idea is that you aren't supposed to be able to see
the glue line. And a little paint will conceal a multitude of
sins with the glue pot.
                                             -- D