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Author Topic: 2-6-0 Loco Problem  (Read 1518 times)
Old Dragoon

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« on: January 30, 2012, 09:53:48 AM »

Purchased a loco (81495) and attempted to run it on my track. It runs great on straight track, but when it rounds a curve it binds and stops. Upon further examination, I noticed that unlike all of my other locos, this one had two downward facing pins inside the middle drive wheels which ride inside of both track rails. I believe these pins are causing the binding and therefore stopping the loco. I also believe, according to the brochure, that these have something to do with the loco's conductivity. Does anyone know how I can remedy this situation? Thank you.
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Loco Bill Canelos

Model railroading since 1947


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« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2012, 10:07:59 AM »

Lots of guys just remove the pins
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Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway Missouri Western Railway
Semi Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!
Old Dragoon

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« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2012, 11:52:48 AM »

Thanks, Bill. I sure do appreciate your reply. Thought of doing just that, but I didn't want to cause any conductivity problems. I am new to the hobby and a bit leary of taking chances with an expensive loco. No doubt it will work as a charm! Regards. Bill
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Old Dragoon

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« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2012, 12:41:12 PM »

Hi Bill. I removed the pin bar and it works like a charm! Thanks again. Bill
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Kevin Strong


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« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2012, 12:48:59 PM »

Just keep an eye on things if your curves are on the "tight" side (i.e., 4' radius or less). Because there's a bit of side-to-side play on that axle, the wheels may drop off the railhead if the curve is tight enough. The solution is to put a very thin shim between the inside edge of the bearing block and the valve gear eccentrics to reduce the side-to-side play. On mine, I just cut two slivers off of a Bic ball-point pen barrel (not quite 1mm thick each). I cut the side so I could slip it over the axle without having to remove anything, and it was all done.



If you're not having troubles, don't worry about it. I test everything I build on an LGB 1600 curve (just a whisker under 4'), so I put the spacers in just to be safe.

Later,

K
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