Power Supply for Accessories

[Stapler]

We see that the speed controller for Bachmann sets will only accommodate one powered accessory.  For additional accessories, a customer should get a separate power supply.  Bachmann does not appear to make them.

Could anyone suggest such a separate power supply that would work with a simple Bachmann dcc set?  Not too expensive, please.

[WoundedBear]

I use a couple of these under my layout for my 12 volt accessory needs. One runs all my turnout stall motors, the other does everything else. Cut the cigarette lighter end off of it and wire it up.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ac-to-dc-power-converter/986476

Sid

[jbrock27]

Not sure Swingline if by accessories, you are referring to lights, ac/dc operated switch machines, etc.  But, if you are, a place like Ebay is a good place to look for inexpensive power packs that you can use the AC terminals off of or the DC terminals for things like bulbs, "lamps" or LEDs.  The DC on these packs is most often variable and you can set the DC voltage to what you want/need by turning the knob or dial.  The AC terminals on these usually don't go past 19 volts and are "set" or non adjustable .

[jward]

why would you want to power each accessory separately? they can all be run off one power pack as long as you don't exceed its capacity. this may require some cutting and splicing of wiring on your part, but it is a lot cheaper than buying several power packs.

[jbrock27]

Not sure where you are getting the idea that anyone is suggesting to power each accessory separately   I don't see where either Sid or I are suggesting the OP do that.  If the OP has a half a brain (and I have no reason to doubt they don't) they will understand what is being provided is ideas for a secondary power source to run accessories.  You know as well as I, and I am sure you would agree, it is better to have a separate power source to run an accessory like switch machines, from the power source that runs the locos.

[rogertra]

I use a couple of these under my layout for my 12 volt accessory needs. One runs all my turnout stall motors, the other does everything else. Cut the cigarette lighter end off of it and wire it up.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ac-to-dc-power-converter/986476

Sid

Sid.  I use a similar 'wall wart' to power my turntable, they are a good, cheap way to power accessories.  Just look for the ones with the highest output voltage and amperage as they do vary.

I've used them before, on a previous layout, so power building lights etc..  I usually run the + and - to terminal blocks and daisy chain the power supply side terminals together and then just run feeders from the other side of the terminal blocks.

Cheers

Roger T.

[CNE Runner]

I make it a habit to never thow out any of those 'wall wart' transformers. As the years have gone by, I have accumulated (my wife would say 'horded') quite a number of these. On the side of each, I indicate the output voltage and amperage (use white correction fluid on the black ones for visibility).

The main thing to remember is that the voltage requirement of the accessory must match the 'wall wart's' voltage output. The current requirement of the accessory (amperage) must be be equal to, or less than, the output amperage of the 'wall wart' (I always opt for "less than"). If that is so, the accessory will work just fine. As an example: I have a single Tortoise turnout controller on my layout. The Tortoise machine requires a voltage of 9 - 12 volts (the less the voltage, the slower and quieter the Tortoise runs). The controller's current requirements are 15 - 16 ma. This means that any 'wall wart', with an output rating of 9 - 12v  and ~ 20 ma or greater will operate one Tortoise controller. [I run my Tortoise from a 'wall wart' of 9 volts/500 ma.] Remember, the voltage must match the accessories' requirement...but the amperage can be anything greater than the accessories maximum requirement. Carrying that a bit further, a 9 - 12 volt/500 ma 'wall wart' will safely power 30 Tortoise turnout controllers.

Save those 'wall warts' as you never know when they will come in handy.

Regards,
Ray

[Len]

I use one of these for accessory power: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Impressions-45-Watt-Low-Voltage-Transformer-with-Analog-Timer-98042-045TFM/203479874

It's 12VAC/45Watts, so I'm not worried about overloading it. The output feeds two distribution blocks, 1 with a full wave rectifier to create DC for what needs it, the other for straight 12VAC.

Len

[philws]

is it possible to use all wall wart to help with the DCC instead of paying all that money for that 5 amp one they sell online?

[wiley209]

I have a DCC layout, so I use several of my spare TYCO and Life-Like power packs (basic kind) for powering my accessories. I have a TYCO pack on my control panel next to my E-Z Command unit for powering the turnouts and TYCO remote-operated accessories (like the log dump car and freight unloading depot), and several more under my train table for the various lighted accessories. I do "group wiring" (have several bare wire ends twisted into the ones going to the power) so several lights/accessories can be powered by a single power pack.

If you do this, you can use just about any conventional train power pack as long as it has AC terminals. Doesn't matter if it's the current Bachmann model, the older ones, A.H.M, Life-Like, Model Power, TYCO, etc. They'll do the trick nicely.

[jbrock27]

That subject has been covered ...

Not sure Swingline if by accessories, you are referring to lights, ac/dc operated switch machines, etc.  But, if you are, a place like Ebay is a good place to look for inexpensive power packs that you can use the AC terminals off of or the DC terminals for things like bulbs, "lamps" or LEDs.  The DC on these packs is most often variable and you can set the DC voltage to what you want/need by turning the knob or dial.  The AC terminals on these usually don't go past 19 volts and are "set" or non adjustable .

I know, sometimes it is hard to see with a mask on