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Author Topic: DC Trains on a DCC track  (Read 2260 times)
RouxBDoo


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« on: January 21, 2016, 01:25:52 PM »

Hello, thanks for having this resource, I am new to Model Railroading and I have some questions.

I was told recently by a fairly wise fellow that my DCC controller can burn out my DC trains on idle.  The track voltage is constant and I have to be careful.

I have a new Echo Valley DCC set and a few older DC locos, I want to include.  I also have ordered a 46605A DC controller from EBAY after seeing you could run it in through the DCC controller.  Bachmann even shows this operation using #10 as a DC controller.

My question is, do I have to still worry about burning my older DC locos out using this set-up, or does this rectify that situation.  I love DCC trains (especially my Southern Mogul that came with the set) but I also see some beautiful DC trains for a real bargain.  Plus I have the other two DC locos I want to run on my EZ-Track.

On a personal note, my grandfather worked for Southern Railroad and I'd love to see more Southern Rolling Stock and passenger cars, (especially the Southern Steam Generators like Rapido put out several years ago)

Thanks for your time!

RouxBDoo
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The Southern Serves The South
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MBB


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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2016, 01:40:03 PM »

. . .

My question is, do I have to still worry about burning my older DC locos out using this set-up, . . .


Yes.




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Yardmaster
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« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2016, 02:21:48 PM »

When running a DC loco on a DCC track you should "park" it on a siding that can be isolated (track power turned off) when you are not running it.
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RouxBDoo


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« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2016, 03:04:45 PM »

 So what is the benefit of running the DC controller through my DCC controller and operating the train, rather than just using the DCC controller alone?
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Yardmaster
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« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2016, 03:43:56 PM »

This allows you to run 10 digital locos and one analog loco.
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RouxBDoo


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« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2016, 04:16:26 PM »

OK got it, thank you guys so much!  Think I will either stick with DCC and maybe upgrade my existing locos if they're not too old.

BTW: Are there some DC that just can't be upgraded?

Tim
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jward


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« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2016, 04:42:56 PM »

I would first look at block control wiring. you insulate the rails on your sidings, and connect them to spst  (on/off) switches so that power can be turned off to that section of track. you can safely park your dc locomotives there when not in use. just be sure to turn the switch off when you do.

if you are using the basic ez command, you have limited current capacity, 1 amp or so, so you may want to consider block wiring even if you are only running dcc locomotives. the decoders draw current even when not in use, and having them parked on a track you can turn off will significantly lessen the load on your dcc system.

as for adding dcc to a dc locomotive, except in rare cases it can be done. some conversions are easy, some are a bit harder. the big question should be, are the locomotives you have worth the cost of conversion. what locomotives do you want to convert? if they are worthy of adding dcc, somebody here has probably done so and can give advice.

here are some things to consider when deciding whether to convert to dcc.

1. does my locomotive pick up power from all wheels? if not ten it may not perform well on dcc.

2. does my locomotive have traction tires? these are rubber tires on the powered wheels that are supposed to increase the pulling power of your locomotive. they cut down on the number of wheels picking up electricity from the rails, and also degrade performance in other ways.

3. is the motor isolated from the chassis? if so, the dcc conversion should be pretty easy. if not, you will have to isolate the motor before you can convert to dcc. use an ohmmeter to determine this.

4. if the locomotive is a diesel, are all wheels geared? locomotives with only one truck powered and one truck with free rolling wheels are usually not good performers period.

5. how much current does the motor draw? some older motors can draw excessive current, in the range of an amp or more. no use in trying to add a decoder to a locomotive that will overload your system.
« Last Edit: January 21, 2016, 04:44:51 PM by jward » Logged

Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA
RouxBDoo


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« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2016, 07:22:56 PM »

jward, thanks for all the info.  I look forward to building a small layout and want to get it right to start off.  Im sure I'll make mistakes but with you guys help I can minimize that.

Thanks

Tim
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wiley209

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« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2016, 08:16:33 PM »

On my HO train layout, I set up an isolated siding designed for parking an analog locomotive while using my E-Z Command system. I used a single terminal rail joiner and a plastic insulation joiner on one of the rails, connected to an Atlas "Connector" switch that is wired to the terminal connections that go from my E-Z Command unit to the tracks (I use Atlas Code-100 nickel-silver snap-track with terminal joiners.) What I also did was put a Life-Like lighted nickel-silver bumper track section on the end of the siding, so I can easily tell whether it's powered on or not without looking at the switch.
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