Restoring old Decals Possible

[brokenrail]

I recently started back at doing some re-lettering  and some custom paint ect  ..and have collected many decal sets over the years and kept them in a freezer bag thinking it would preserve them.They look new ,but when they are put into the water to separate from the sheet they turn in a thousand little pieces .They are Micro Scale . Is there anything that could be put on them or in the water to save them??? . The project was using a Bachmann gp40 shell.
Johnny

[jbrock27]

I thought I had come across, at one time, over on the TYCO forum, someone spraying Dullcote or something like that on the decal sheet, letting it dry, they applying the decals in the usual fashion.

[Bucksco]

A shot of clearcote will sometimes save a decal sheet as long as the carrier film is still okay.

[James in FL]

Like @jbrock27, I've heard of using Testors Dullcote to restore Microscale decals, but have not tried it so cannot comment on its effectiveness.
I've read of it suggested many times over the years, so perhaps it works for some and maybe a viable fix.
FWIW... I have used Testors Dullcote to "seal" homemade inkjet decals from my printer, before application... it works.
But it's not the same, I was trying to eliminate the ink from lifting off the paper when immersed in water, you are trying to eliminate the crumbling of an old decal sheet.

Apples to Oranges.

I have used this on Microscale decals:

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD

And I can state it works as advertised.
The liquid is applied very thinly with a brush.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/graphics/Instructions/MSISysteminstr.pdf

A new pack of decals is what? 7-8 bucks.
Unless the ones you want to use are no longer produced, save yourself the headache and buy new ones.
We spend more than that on trucks and couplers for one car.

Good luck

@Yardy, what manufacturers "clearcote" do you have firsthand experience with using that will "sometimessave" a decal sheet?

[Bucksco]

Any enamel clear coat will do. Using dullcote will cause "silvering" (the clear parts of the decal will be hazy)  when the decal  is applied. Normal sequence of decaling a model is paint , gloss clear coat (so the clear decal film blends into the clear to avoid silvering), finish coat of clear gloss or flat to seal the decal depending on the desired finish..

[jward]

probably not the answer you were looking for, nut i'd stay away from microscale unless you intend to use them right away. they are not the only decals in town.

[Ken G Price]

Any enamel clear coat will do. Using dullcote will cause "silvering" (the clear parts of the decal will be hazy)  when the decal  is applied. Normal sequence of decaling a model is paint , gloss clear coat (so the clear decal film blends into the clear to avoid silvering), finish coat of clear gloss or flat to seal the decal depending on the desired finish..

I have also found that the clea rcoat works best.

[jbrock27]

Here is the thread that has the information in it that I mentioned I had come across, for you or anyone else who might be interested.  Go to the last page, which I believe is 4 at this stage and work backwards to see mention of a sealer:

http://www.tycoforums.com/tyco/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16767&whichpage=4

[WoundedBear]

This is my choice for a decal coating. I use it for ones I print as well as to restore old sheets.

http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/tools/decals?skuUpc=9200

Sid

[rogertra]

This is my choice for a decal coating. I use it for ones I print as well as to restore old sheets.

http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/tools/decals?skuUpc=9200

Sid

Thanks Sid.

I've a few old decals, five plus years and older that your suggestion above looks like a good fix.


I also have some old dry print transfers, can't think of the correct name, that I'd like to use but convert them to water slide decals.  Any suggestions?


Cheers


Roger T.

[WoundedBear]

Rog.....

With dry transfers, you can apply them to a piece of clear decal paper first. Usually dry transfers DO NOT require a clear top coat as the inks are water resistant as it is. Once you have it applied to the decal film, just trim and use it as you would a normal waterslide decal.

Sid

[James in FL]

I also have some old dry print transfers, can't think of the correct name, that I'd like to use but convert them to water slide decals.  Any suggestions?

Scan your dry transfers and decal sheets at 100% and save at the highest resolution possible.
When you need them, print to decal paper, using your "sealer" of choice.
You can use the "masters" before they crumble.
No worries if they go "out of production" or "discontinued".
As long as you're not selling them and making a profit, and using strictly for personal use only, no problems with copyright issues.

[WoundedBear]

Scan your dry transfers and decal sheets at 100% and save at the highest resolution possible.
When you need them, print to decal paper, using your "sealer" of choice.
You can use the "masters" before they crumble.
No worries if they go "out of production" or "discontinued".
As long as you're not selling them and making a profit, and using strictly for personal use only, no problems with copyright issues.

So James.........how do you deal with white lettering or the white areas of the transfer? Alps printers are getting rarer and rarer.

Sid

[James in FL]

As you well know, white ink is out of the question, White paper is an option when printing a negative such as Norfolk Southern.

[WoundedBear]

You haven't really answered the question. How do you deal with the white areas? How would you trim around lettering? I'm not sure what your reference to Norfolk Southern means. Please explain further. I've tried printing on white decal paper with limited success, depending on the project.

Sid