44592 set(s)

[jbrock27]

How?  By then cutting from the underside of the roadbed toward the ties and rails?

[Len]

Between the rails and ties, like this:



Len

[James in FL]

Queries: Start cutting from the top of the track or underside?  Does one cut from the underside until reaching the ties, then separate the roadbed portion and cut rails with a pair of Xurons?  What does one have to do after cutting it, to create space between the bottom of the rails and the plastic roadbed for rail joiners?

I'd put it in the Mitre box rails up, and cut down through it.
If the ties need trimmed to fit joiners, an exacto will work fine, just whittle away at it.
In the past, I have also shortened rail joiners as necessary.

[jbrock27]

Between the rails and ties, like this:



Len

Great illustration Len, thank you.  But, WOW!  Seems like mighty fine work.  Is there not a high risk doing it that way, for snagging the rail and bending it upward and perhaps pulling it from the ties? 

In the past, I have also shortened rail joiners as necessary.

Thank you James.  What is your trick?  Any time I have tried that using side (or diagonal cutters ("dykes")) I have always mashed the joiner so it will no longer connect the track straight, even if I can still slide it onto the rail.

Let me ask this in general; how's this go for cutting curves?

[James in FL]

Thank you James.  What is your trick?

I slide the joiner on the rail and just leave the amount I want removed from the end to the rail.
I cut off with wire cutters and then force the joiner the rest of the way onto the rail (joiner completely on rail), this opens it back up.
Then it usually takes a small screwdriver to help to push the shortened joiner back off the rail.

Let me ask this in general; how's this go for cutting curves?

To be honest, I never tried to cut a curved piece of track in the mitre box.
I don't see why it could not be done but the rail (arcs) would have to be maintained (to keep the geometry correct) to keep them in proportion to each other.
That might prove slightly challenging,  but it would not have to be exact .005/.010 off is not going to be a deal breaker.
EZ track is very forgiving, and the slop could be spread (divided) to include several joints.

I think if I needed to cut a curved section, I would lay it out and mark with a pencil and cut freehand with a Dremel, or with Xurons.
While Len's method of passing the saw blade parallel to the bottom of the rail to open the clearance to add joiners does have merit, I think it may be difficult for the inexperienced to pull off.
The track would almost have to be held in place with a vise or such, to make a clean cut.
Then you would have to exercise care not to separate the rail from the spikes, or worse yet, break off the spike heads.
Just IMO.
Len's way apparently works best for him, that's why he does it this (his) way.
My way is only the right way for me.
Jim has his own way of dealing with this, and his way works best for him.
Experience is the best teacher.
There is more than one way to skin this cat, and YMMV.
This does not make anybody's suggestion, either right or wrong.
Or better or worse than the others.

You always have the option of waiting on the next production run.

[jbrock27]

Thank you for the reply James.

I never tried to cut a curved piece of track in the mitre box.
That might prove slightly challenging...
While Len's method of passing the saw blade parallel to the bottom of the rail to open the clearance to add joiners does have merit, I think it may be difficult for the inexperienced to pull off.
Then you would have to exercise care not to separate the rail from the spikes, or worse yet, break off the spike heads.
Just IMO.

I concur, hence the reason I wondered about the possibilities of pulling the rail away from the ties.

I have luckily never had to cut EZ Track, but once again have to give the advantage to traditional sectional track when it comes to that.  I can cut curves to any size I want using it, no muss, no fuss.

[Len]

Between the rails and ties, like this:



Len

Great illustration Len, thank you.  But, WOW!  Seems like mighty fine work.  Is there not a high risk doing it that way, for snagging the rail and bending it upward and perhaps pulling it from the ties?

I use a very fine, 52TPI, saw and press down gently on the rails while I cut. Depending on where the rail was cut, sometimes one'spike' has to be taken out when sawing, but it's never been a problem.

Len

[jbrock27]

Thanks for the additional info, Len.