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Author Topic: 44 ton split axles??  (Read 5152 times)

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« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2017, 10:30:39 AM »

After a long trip I just got home and after reading this thread I pulled out all 3 of my 44-tonners. 2 are at least 5-7 years old and the most recent is a CN liveried one I bought about3 years ago.All were bought new from the local hobby-shop, are factory equipped DCC models with the open bottom gear covers. None of them have been run in at least 2 years if not longer. I put all 3 on the layout the other day and ran them....the older two are definately noisier than the newer one but to me its just the old traditional Bachmann growl....the newer CN livried one is quieter...they all ran perfectly fine after a minute or two , I assume the lube had dries out a bit from sitting so long. Yesterday I was at my LHS, they had another CN liveried DCC-equipped 44-tonner so I grabbed it. I assume its a more recently manufactured unit than the one I bought 3 years ago but I suppose it might have been built back then and been sitting on various wharehouse shelves since then.  This one ran beautifully and much more quietly than the others straight out of the thats good. Over the next few days I'll open all up and closely examine the gears and report back.  Meanwhile, Dave2744, it would be great if you could offer any advice or tips,pics of how to install all that sound-hardware into the loco...its definately something I would like...a sound equipped awesome would that be!!!

Sorry for the long post.



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« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2017, 12:52:21 AM »

Sorry to have not seen these posts recently. Very busy with work and girlfriend.  Gotta keep 'em happy! 

Indian-hills: The axles on my units were all split at the "hub" area. The ends where the metal part of the
                    wheels inserts.  The axles ran true enough with the metal wheel stubs inserted.  The Permatex
                    product I used is Threadlocker Blue. # 24206.  Ace hardware carries it.  Comes in a small bottle.
                    It allows disassembly if needed, but has held up very well in use.  I run these 44s every day, with
                    lots and lots and lots of switch activity.  Have had zero failures since application of product.

genetk44:  I do have installation photos.  They are on my android phone.  I would gladly share them, but I
                  need instructions, ( for dummies ), on how to get from phone to forum.  Meanwhile, the installation
                  is challenging, but not undoable. Patience is a must.  I only worked on it a couple hours each time.
                  Overall plan: decoder, TWU1100, sits crosswise snug against roof of cab.  Two window glazings had
                  to be removed to allow decoder to sit flat against roof.  No big deal. vandals probably knocked them
                  out!  Next, the Railmaster sugarcube speaker, DS1436-8, mounts under one hood, snug against top,
                 and about 1/4 inch from end of hood, to leave room for Led & resistor.
                  No cutting or filing required. The CurrentKeeper mounts under the other hood, snug against top, and
                 about 1/4 inch from end of hood, to leave room for led & resistor. Leads from both items are facing
                 center cab. More on this later. 
                 Led lights. I had to install 1000ohm resistors on each to dim the lights down to realistic levels.
                 Hi is now proper brilliance, low is nice and dim. The  resistors are soldered directly in series with the
                 Led tabs. The resistors sit vertically up alongside the  radiator surface. There is NO room to spare.
                 Resustors stay cool, no worry about heat. I'll continue this in the next reply, getting rather long and
                 gal is calling.

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« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2017, 02:08:18 AM »

TSU1100 Tsunami2 sound install continued.

The biggest challenge was to find room for all the wires.  I cut off the auxillary wires for other
light functions.  All wires needed to be cut as short as possible so they can fit in small crevices
between CurrentKeeper and cube speaker.  Wire splices were done by laying pretinned wires
alongside each other, then soldered together.  Joint is no thicker than wire with insulation. I did
not use shrink tubing. No room for it!  My solution was to apply several thin coats of a liquid
product, that when dried, forms an isulating blanket around joint.  The product is a model
airplane canopy glue, Formula 500, from PACER.It goes on white, but dries clear. My insulated
joints are barely bigger than the original wire.  It has worked perfectly. Is very durable, so
disassembly or vibration is not a problem. 

As I stated in earlier post, this project was successful beyond my wildest dreams. The sound is
very loud, had to tone it down.  The Tsunami2 sound files are outstanding. The two prime movers
start up separately, and are very accurate. This project is a must for these little engines.  They
become first class units, are fun to run, and the slow speed control is perfect.  I will post my CV
in the next post, tommorrow, for my installation.  I run these units at scale realistic speeds, makes
them even more impressive.

They can pull/push 6 or 7 40ft cars on level. All my cars have drag brakes installed so my Kadee
couplers work 100%.  Car weights are close to NMRA std.

Oh, yes, soldering iron was a 25watt pencil tip, solder is 60/40 rosin core .062 inch. Flux is TixFlo
liquid, which I have used for years, ( many, many years), with no problems, period.  When soldering
such fine wire, a very fast heat application with iron, and get out of there fast is required.  Do not
worry about so called "cold" joints.  The currents are so small it just does not matter.  If you can pull
lightly on the joint, and it stays together, it is good to go. I have 18 locos with this type of installation
 proceedure, and have absolutely no problems. Been this way for years.


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« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2017, 05:12:19 PM »

Is this a duel motor or single motor?Huh??

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« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2017, 05:46:07 PM »

kamerad47: Just getting around to forum again.  My 2 44's are single motor with dual flywheels.  Gear covers are of
                    the "open" style. All 5 gears partially protrude thru cover plates. One loco I installed a TSU750, Current
                    Keeper and RailMaster cube speaker. The other loco I installed a TSU1100 (Tsunami2), Current Keeper
                    and RailMaster cube speaker.  You sure can tell the difference in the superior performance of motor
                    control and higher quality of sound files of the Tsunami2 vs. the 750. Pain that it might be, I am
                    considering swapping out the 750 'coder. I have a smooth running B'mann  RS3 it could go in.

                    I will post my CV values for these units in another thread.

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« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2017, 11:47:52 PM »

TSU1100 Tsunami2 sound install continued.


They can pull/push 6 or 7 40ft cars on level. All my cars have drag brakes installed so my Kadee
couplers work 100%.  Car weights are close to NMRA std.

Dave2744..... you mention that all your cars have " drag brakes" installed so your Kadee couplers work100%.     Could you explain what drag brakes are and how they cause your Kadees to work 100%.  Please??



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« Reply #21 on: May 20, 2017, 12:26:21 PM »

Gene,  work travel really gets in way of hobby! Gotta do something about that!
           "drag brakes".  All my equipment uses Kaydee cplrs, and Kaydee, Rapido
           or Inter Mountain metal wheels.  My railroad consists of several, moveable,
           modules.  The cars are so free rolling, they were all over the place if I even
           bumped the layout only slightly.  It also caused the cplrs to not lock when
           engaged at  realistic slow switching speeds, sometimes.  My solution was to
           installed a small diameter wire, ( .015" ), spring over the axles of 1 truck per car.
           The tension is very light.  Has only decreased my locos pulling ability slightly, not
           enough  to bother me. I run 12-15 car count trains mostly, on level track.
           My branch-line, ( 5% ) grade, runs 3 to 4 cars max.
           NO wheel slippage, NO traction tires.

           Kaydee used to have small coil springs to install on the ends of the axles a while
           back. They still might.  I have a hard enought time getting cplr springs back in,
           can't even imagine what it would take to install a spring on a pointed axle end
           while trying to insert same into truck side frame. That could cause nightmares!

           Hope all that was interesting. Works for me.  Happy modelling, Dave

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« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2017, 03:13:34 PM »

So Dave, I just want to be sure I understand...are you saying that Kadee coupler-equipped cars that are too free-rolling don't couple very well??  And that by adding a bit of wire-supplied friction to one axle on your cars it improves the coupling??

I remember reading an article in a UK magazine about adding braking to cars by adding  a strip of styrene to the bottom of the car that rested against one axle...same idea as your wire I guess.



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« Reply #23 on: May 21, 2017, 12:22:55 AM »

Gene, the free rolling cars would couple about 95% just fine, the rest would roll sooooooo free you would just chase the car down the track! This was with absolutely 100% perfect Kadee couplers. ( easy opening, swing easy, etc.).
With the wire tension in place, even a older Kadee, a little stiff, with flat spring, will work all the time.
I also thought about using styrene.  I knew the tension adjustment would be impossible to control.  The wire form can
be easily adjusted as needed. Also, I wasn't sure if the styrene would hold the tension over time.  BTW, I use only the
new style "whisker" couplers in the Kadee  draft box assembly.  Every time I think another draft box was OK, I ended
up changing it out later.  I will put up with shiny paint, oversize handrails, etc., for awhile, but I just won't tolerate anything short of Kadee cpuplers and Kadee, Rapido or InterMountain metal wheels.  And I am not, as they say, a "finicky" person.  I just like mechanical things to work as intended.

PS. If we go further with this topic, we should probably start a new thread. We've drifted pretty far from "split axles".
« Last Edit: May 21, 2017, 12:37:51 AM by DAVE2744 » Logged

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« Reply #24 on: May 21, 2017, 08:54:24 AM »

Thanks about we start that other thread. 👍 I started a new thread on the subject of drag brakes and Kadee couplers here....,33599.0.html
« Last Edit: May 21, 2017, 03:12:53 PM by genetk44 » Logged

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