Spectrum 2-8-0 binding AAARRRGGHHHHH!!!!!

[kevin2083]

I just puled my 2-8-0 out of storage after about 2 years, and now it's running very poorly. Every time the right side siderods reach the bottom of their travel, something binds and the loco will kind of stumble then run fine until the siderods reach the bottom again. Until that happens, it will run very slowly without problems. I've taken this thing apart, lubed everything that moves, checked to make sure everything was straight and lined up, and put it back together-and guess what- NOTHING CHANGED.   I'm a little lost here...

All I know is that there's nothing wrong with the motor because I checked that seperatly- it ran at about 60 rpm smoothly, using a MRC Tech 4 260.

Has this happened to anyone else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

One more thing- how long does it take these days for a loco to be shipped to B-mann and be returned?

thanks,
kevin

[the Bach-man]

Dear Kevin,
Watch very carefully on each side as the bind occurs. It might be a slightly bent siderod that's causing the problem.
Good luck!
the Bach-man

[James in FL]

I agree with the B'mann, check for a bent side rod, even a very slight bend can cause major issues.
You state;

I've taken this thing apart, lubed everything that moves, checked to make sure everything was straight and lined up, and put it back together...

Are you sure the Drivers are quartered properly?

[taz-of-boyds]

You may have to look very very carefully.  Any part of the siderod mechanism that moves has the potential to bind.  I have not had any problems with my 2-8-0's but my 2-6-6-2 has binding is a goofy spot.  It can cause the piston slider (its real name??) to pop out of its guides.  It took me a while to realize what was actually happening and where it was actually binding.

Please let us know what you find!
Charles

PS, I would not force the loco to operate with the binding any more that necessary, it could make a little problem a big problem.

[brokemoto]

Another problem could be that the LOC-TITE on one of the drivers has broken, so the driver spins loosely on the axle, thus working itself out of quarter.

Run it as slowly as it will run and watch the alignment of the side rod and the counterweights.  If the side rod starts to go crooked or the counterweights are at different positions on the same side, the problem is broken LOC-TITE.

I have a MP Pacific that does the same thing.  It will run allright for a while, then start to wobble violently then bind.  I can turn the offending driver back into quarter, and it will run allright for a quite some time, but eventually the driver will go back out of quarter because the LOC-TITE has broken.

As you stated, everything looks to be in alignment when you put it onto the track, but watch to make sure that operating it does not cause something to go out of alignment.

A wobble or bind in a steam locomotive is often an indication that a driver is out of quarter.

[kevin2083]

I got to looking at it again, and one of the siderods on the left was a little bent- so I straightened it. Still gets stuck in the same spot though. I'll have to take it apart again to check for the problem with the locktite, but first I'll have to find where my sister hid my screwdrivers, track nails, and DCC controller. She's so funny!

[tweetsieengineer]

I have 5 of them 2-8-0 and one of mine was seriously a bad engine.  I worked with it for a few months and finally gave up, now its a parts engine.  But with that engine, i had alot of trouble with the engine binding and then the front driver would jump the track in curves.  So i checked the gauge, and took the wheels out a quartered all the drivers. After reassembling it still did the same thing.  Come to find out the problem was in the frame, who ever cut the frame to hold the drivers made the slot slightly to big thus making the drivers move in the frame everytime they rotated. I did manage to narrow the gauge slightly to keep it from jumping the track. But it never really made it a perfect engine.  Another thing i have noticed with the 2-8-0 pilot trucks, sometime the axle is not always centered in the wheel which can cause it to wobble and jump. 

Dont think im bashing the 2-8-0 i have 4 of them that work GREAT.  These are just things i have noticed working with them over the last 2 yrs. As a matter of fact im looking to get a 6th one.

Tim

[kevin2083]

Well, I found all my stuff and opened the train up again. The drivers are in quarter. While I had it apart, I cleaned the gears and relubed them, which seemed to help a little, but not enough to say this project is over with though. tweetsieengineer, I have the same problem with the leading truck jumping the track. I just figured that I had laid the track poorly...again.

[tweetsieengineer]

If the pilot truck is bad there isnt much i have been able to do to make it roll correctly, i would recommend ordering a new one from the factory.  All this talk has made me want to get my bad engine out and tinker with it.  But after tonight i got 2-6-2 to work on, my new 2-6-2 locked up this evening and wont even turn at wheel. Kinda got me stumped, i just did get micro trains couplers on it, and i was getting ready to pull a train for the first time with it. Oh well back to drawing board on that one.

[kevin2083]

I was hoping to have it ready by yesterday for a display layout, but I guess theres always next time (sometime in January??). Instead I ran a LL proto F unit. I at least had it to look at...

[tweetsieengineer]

I know how you feel about being disappointed in not having the right engine. I never did get into n scale until 2005, and my first 2 engines one was a Undecorated 2-8-0 and the other was SRR #722. Btw i model the southern.  The undec engine became my work horse and the 722 became the show piece, and still is.  In 2006 i bought a 3rd undec 2-8-0 so i could rotate engines without using the green engine. The 3rd was the one that gave me a fit. Finally i gave up and in 2007 i got a 4th one and it was better than the 3rd but nothing has beat the first two yet.  As for the third engine one day i was on ebay and found an engine minus the tender, someone was selling it and all that was wrong was a broken rod.  So i took the bad engine and combined parts and made one good engine. Now i have 4 good 2-8-0's and spare rods, drivers, a motor and a boiler shell. Just wish i had a fifth tender, to make a shelf model out of it.

[kevin2083]

yeah!!!! I figured it out!!! there was a piece of woodland scenics fine ballast on the main drive gear. After all that it was the problem I always check for first. Boy, do I feel smart now... I really appreciate all the help!

[taz-of-boyds]

Kevin,

You may have gone the long way around, but it is nice to know it is fixed!  All the info the guys provided is useful just the same, even your final resolution.

Thanks,
Charles

PS, funny how things can sneak upon you like that