Ten Wheeler Anniversary - model 81098 - ET&WNC

[brownmat]

Hello

I have just taken delivery of a super ten wheeler which I believe is a V5. Its unbelievable how much improved it is over the earlier models I have seen!

Sadly, the lens on the front headlight is missing as is one of the handrails from the rear (not the side) of the cab. I can see the part numbers on the assembly sheets, but they don't appear to be available. May I ask what people have been using instead?

May I also ask if anyone can recommend a good engineer that would fit in the rather tight cab - ideally one that leans slightly out of the window.

Both the front and rear LED bulbs have gone. Does anyone know the exact type they are so I can replace? Neither have any sort of inline resister unless they are hidden in the boiler!

Finally, I would like to convert it to RC. I have read somewhere that the switch behind the smokebox door should have 3 positions. One for NMRA, one for Large Scale (whatever that means) and centre for "off". I can only feel 2 positions. Is there an easy way to convert to battery r/c?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

[Joe Zullo]

A V5 is one of the easiest to put battery/RC into. First off, the Revolution system is ideal for this application. The batteries, and receiver board (with sound and ESC) goes in the tender. The sound card in there gets removed the speaker stays. The harness for on/off and charging gets put in the tender and the switch and charging jack can be put on the bottom or rear of the tender
The track power is isolated by taking off the bottom cover of the loco and unplug the wires from the brass pickup strips. These two wires get routed to the rear and connected to a small plug at the rear of the loco.
A mating plug and wires get routed from the board in the tender forward so it can connect to the plug just added at the loco rear. The rear tender light can be made operational by adding an LED with a resistor on one leg and routing to the Revo board.
You will no longer hook up the original sound and light connectors at the rear of the loco.

There are a few other items to think out such as how you want to connect the batteries to the Revo board. You can mount the linking button in the hatch that was for the 9 volt battery which is no longer required.

I have four of mine converted like this and am about to do two others for club members.

[Greg Elmassian]

Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg

[Joe Zullo]

Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg

Your way is the hard way. It requires getting to the wire side of those connectors. No easy task. No need for the chuff switches and the drum with the Revo. It's voltage controlled built in chuff is quite adequate. On the V5 the wires to the track pickups are EASILY accessible with just the bottom cover off. The rear light will be powered by the Revo in the tender. There are always different ways of accomplishing the task at hand. Why do it the hard way?

[brownmat]

Thank you for your assistance in the matter. I have now managed to get it sorted!

Thanks again.

[brownmat]

I forgot to mention, I have also managed to sort the lens and LED's as well!

I am still struggling with the hand rail and engineer? If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Thank you!

[Loco Bill Canelos]

As for the engineer, I use the bachmann Engineer that comes with the loco.  I cut the legs off so that the figures arms fit to the armrest on the bottom of the cab window

[Greg Elmassian]

Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg

Your way is the hard way. It requires getting to the wire side of those connectors. No easy task. No need for the chuff switches and the drum with the Revo. It's voltage controlled built in chuff is quite adequate. On the V5 the wires to the track pickups are EASILY accessible with just the bottom cover off. The rear light will be powered by the Revo in the tender. There are always different ways of accomplishing the task at hand. Why do it the hard way?

Many people prefer the accurately timed chuff from the actual chuff switch, why else would the Revo come with a chuff switch input?

Hard way? Matter of opinion, what's so hard?

Greg

[brownmat]

As for the engineer, I use the bachmann Engineer that comes with the loco.  I cut the legs off so that the figures arms fit to the armrest on the bottom of the cab window

Thank you very much! I will try and seek one out as sadly, one did not come with the locomotive.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

You must have got it used, as the brand new ones come with an engineer and fireman figure. No matter, the engineer figure I am referring to can be seen here:  https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_75&products_id=10288&zenid=m5sq123dk8clitao9i24j9u0h6

Test fit him in your loco and see what part you might have to cut off to get him in.  I pose him with his arm out side the window.

Have fun,

[brownmat]

Thanks very much. Yes it was used. I will get those purchased. May I ask if anyone has any suggestions for how to reduce the gap between the tender and the locomotive?