F7 shell removal.

[Irish Modeler]

I received an NHL F7 off Ebay and the coupler pockets ended up broke off. I cannot get the screws out of the cab shell to remove it. Any ideas how I might get this done without damaging the body? Thanks for any help in advanced!

[trainman203]

Used model railroad locomotives are the ultimate "pig in a poke."

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig_in_a_poke

Verily, verily, I say unto thee. Bewarest thou of the used model railroad locomotive.  Knowest thou not of the indignities and sufferings it has suffered, be it having been run to the ground, or used as a weapon against a younger sibling. Knowest thou also not of any hidden terminal internal injuries that may. exist.  Spendeth thee wisely thy earthly treasure, on known quality, therefore avoiding weeping, wailing,  and gnashing of teeth.

[jward]

On the ones I have there are 4 screws countersunk into the chassis. They are in front of and to the rear of the fuel tank. They hold the body shell on.

That said, usually the budy shell does not need to be removes to work on the couplers. They are held in place by snap brackets. If yours are missing, replacements are part# 91044-00E01 in the Bachmann parts store.

It should be noted that the FT and F9 use the same chassis as the F7 so this applies to them as well. They're nice running locomotives. I just got one off Ebay.

[Terry Toenges]

So you're a pig in a poker too Jeff? 

[Irish Modeler]

Jward, I can get a screwdriver on the screws but, just cannot get them to turn. I already have the replacement parts from Bachmann as I have had to do this in the past. I will look again at the coupler pockets but, they seem to be to far up to get them released without prying on the body. The difference about the past repair is it was done on a B unit with no motor. I may just have to use a longer screwdriver to get more torque on the screws. What do you think about this idea. Thanks for your response!

[trainman203]

Or wrap the handle of the screwdriver with something to give it a bigger diameter so your hand has more torque and can break that screw loose

[jward]

So you're a pig in a poker too Jeff? 

Yes, I am. I have a good idea what I am looking for, which gives me an advantage over the newbies looking for a bargain. If I see what I am looking for at a good price I snap it up, As for getting them to run, I've often ordered the necessary parts from the parts store. For the newer diesels, they usually have whatever I need. But most of the time, little if anything other than cleaning and a lube job is needed. But then again, I'm not trying to resurrect pancake motored stuff from the 1970s either.

[jward]

Jward, I can get a screwdriver on the screws but, just cannot get them to turn. I already have the replacement parts from Bachmann as I have had to do this in the past. I will look again at the coupler pockets but, they seem to be to far up to get them released without prying on the body. The difference about the past repair is it was done on a B unit with no motor. I may just have to use a longer screwdriver to get more torque on the screws. What do you think about this idea. Thanks for your response!

I:ve got a good set of screwdrivers, and most Bachmann screws are Phillips head so that's what I use. A longer screwdriver might help, or if you can find one a T handled screwdriver has a little more torque. Just be careful not to chew up the screw head trying to get it out. You don't want to have to drill the screw out and retap the hole for a non standard screw.