what are the tricks for easy uncoupling?

[old pilot]

Hello all,

I have progressed to the point of beginning to operate my switching empire. I am having problems with uncoupling some of the cars. I have tried a shish kabob pointed stick and a sharpened small screwdriver. Each works on some cars but not all. I have checked the couplers for correct height, operation, burrs, the simulated air hoses (pins) all point about 20-30 degrees to the right of the centerline, etc. but I have found no problems I can see. Is there a simple solution I am missing or should I replace the problem couplers? Thanks in advance for any help.

[Fred Klein]

Unfortunately I have tried all of the methods you describe and have encountered the same, albeit pesky, problems. I'm not at all sure that replacing the couplers would solve them. The one thing I have not tried, and I intend to when I get a "round-to-it", is to use a small dental brush that is inserted in the couplers and gently twisted. Gerry Leone had this tip on one of his "Off The Rails" episodes on Trains.com videos and is seemed to work really well. Off hand, I don't remember what exactly the brush was called only that it seemed to be commonly available. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[old pilot]

Good morning Fred,

I never would have thought of your tip, but it works the best yet on my quick testing. I just happen to have that type of dental brush on hand. The brand name is GUM, comes with a blue and white striped handle and is about 2 3/4" long. It works by just slowly pushing it between the jaws of the couplers and twisting slightly. Be careful when the uncoupling is completed and you are removing the brush. One of the couplers can slightly grab the brush and could cause a derailment if you are too hasty in the brush removal. The 2 3/4" length made it a little tricky between two 26' boxcars but I found that the clear tube that covers the brush (probably sanitary reasons) can be forced onto the handle end, now making the "tool" about 4" long. I'm guessing the brush will wear with use, requiring a periodic change to a fresh one. I can't wait to tell my dentist that his recommended brush for tooth maintenance also has another use.

[Fred Klein]

Old pilot, I'm glad that you knew what brush I was talking about because I just spent good amount of time looking at Gerry's videos but did not find it. After thinking about it some more, I believe he cut off the original handle and made a longer replacement out of a dowel. Now that this worked for you, I'm going to have to try it. Anyway, I'm glad this worked out for you.

[Fred Klein]

Old pilot, I finally located Gerry Leone's video where he makes the uncoupling tool using the brush. It was not on "Off The Rails" but rather on the first operating video of the State Line layout. In it, Gerry took the brush and carved off the plastic lower portion of the handle (right above the bristles) to release the brush from the handle and then drilled the flat end of a wooden skewer about 1/4 inch deep and cemented the wire armature into the hole. He had made several of them and the crew used them during the operating session.

I got off my "round-to-it" today and bought a package of the brushes at our local Walmart and will attempt to make my own version of the uncoupling tool. Hope this helps.

[Fred Klein]

Made a couple of the uncoupling tools, as per Gerry's instructions, using the brush (wide type) and a skewer. They both work like a charm. Just thought you'd like to know.

[p51]

Bamboo skewers have never failed, with Bachmann, Kadee or even Accurcraft couplers.

[Fred Klein]

p51, I also have used the bamboo skewers in the past and keep a couple of them on the layout. They work OK but tend to be somewhat "fiddly", at least for my shaky hands. The dental brush uncouplers seem to provide more positive feedback for my hands.

From your other post, I'm looking forward to more of your articles.

[Len]

I find using an X-Acto knife to slightly flatten opposite sides of a bamboo skewer's point improves it's ability to open couplers.

Len

[p51]

I also have used the bamboo skewers in the past and keep a couple of them on the layout. They work OK but tend to be somewhat "fiddly", at least for my shaky hands.

Fair enough. I'm sure I'll be there myself someday.

[old pilot]

P51, besides coordination, fading eyesight also enters the picture with age. Even with correct glasses, some days those couplers are a small target. Your handle and picture finally registered with me. If I am seeing what I think I'm seeing, we have more in common than just On30. I consider that era the "golden age of aviation." My experience came later when the wings went around; I'm an old Huey driver. My apologies for getting away from the intended scope of this forum.

[Fred Klein]

Old pilot, I couldn't agree more with the coordination and eyesight. Earlier this year, I underwent cataract surgery on my right eye with the left one to follow in probably a year or two. As a retired engineer, I've always been used to steady hands for precision work and getting the shakes in old age is a real pain in the "round-to-it". But, if one wants to keep on modeling, one learns to live with it and adapt.

P51, with the quality of modeling I've seen in your articles, all I can say is that I hope your hands stay steady and your eyesight clear because I've been inspired by your work and look forward to lots more inspiration.

(Sorry if I've strayed off-topic)

[old pilot]

Good mornig, Fred,

Besides "getting old is a b---h," we can always use the justification or "excuse," if you can't see the detail from 3 feet, you are wasting your time. I guess that's why my new layout will have a lot of detail only seen in my mind's eye.

Old pilot

[Fred Klein]

Old pilot, totally agree with you. I switched from N scale to On30 about 6 or 7 years ago because I just couldn't see N scale details well enough any more. The thing I like about On30, especially because I like smaller locomotives, like Porters, is that I was able to shoehorn my On30 layout into where my N scale layout used to be. By using 15-inch radius curves and short rolling stock, I'm able to run some pretty nice trains. I'm really not too much into scenery but since I'm modeling a portion of the FEC Kissimmee Valley Extension which happened to run just a couple of miles from where I live (long before my time - the right-of-way was abandoned in 1947) and this is part of Florida's prairie, I don't have to worry about mountains and all that. As a retired engineer, I enjoy scratchbuilding and kitbashing both rolling stock and structures and I get a lot of inspiration from articles in the On30 Annual, to which P51 occasionally contributes.

Also, I totally agree with you about details in the mind's eye. I model for my personal enjoyment and don't worry about what others may think.

[p51]

P51, with the quality of modeling I've seen in your articles, all I can say is that I hope your hands stay steady and your eyesight clear because I've been inspired by your work and look forward to lots more inspiration.

Thanks very much, Fred.

I'm really not too much into scenery but since I'm modeling a portion of the FEC Kissimmee Valley Extension which happened to run just a couple of miles from where I live (long before my time - the right-of-way was abandoned in 1947) and this is part of Florida's prairie, I don't have to worry about mountains and all that.

That sounds really interesting, as I have not even heard of many people modeling any lines in Florida.
I grew up along the old Seaboard mainline through North Florida (a very uninspiring place to grow up as a train buff) and I have never heard of anyone modelling that. Piney scrub flats would be really tough to model for scenery anyway, I'd bet.